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  • 6 Quick RV Makeover Tips

    6 Quick RV Makeover Tips

    Life on the road is an exciting adventure, especially when you can settle in one place for a few days or more. Your destination’s scenery may even inspire you to makeover your motorhome or travel trailer. No matter where you take your home away from home, add some flair and cozy touches with RV Trader’s six quick RV makeover tips.

    1. Plant a Garden

    You’ll find a lot of makeshift gardens in RV parks. In addition to flowers, a number of colorful vegetables thrive here, such as peppers, tomatoes, and beans. Don’t know how long you’ll stay? Plant in containers so when you’re ready to move on, just take your garden with you. Styrofoam ice chests make great travel planters. Having a portable garden also makes it easier to eat healthy on the road. Instead of pulling into the next fast-food restaurant, grab a few tomatoes off the vine.

    2. Repair or Refresh Outdated Parts

    Make your RV as fresh as your garden. Do you need new windows or tires? When was the last time you painted, cleaned windows, or inspected the steps that lead into the trailer? Safety is everything, and rotted or rusted steps and light fixtures can be dangerous. 

    You can also breathe new life into an old camper by adding new cabinets and appliances. Add shelves for more storage space so you can declutter your living areas.

    3. Replace Worn Flooring

    If your RV is an older model, chances are your linoleum flooring is dingy and ripped. Replace it with new vinyl flooring, tile or laminates for a fresher look. Before tearing out your RV’s old flooring, beware: linoleum flooring often contains formaldehyde. 

    Formaldehyde is an odorous, colorless gas used in building materials and household products. If you do start to feel nauseous, or if your eyes and throat are irritated, open your camper’s windows and doors to release the gas.

    While we’re talking about flooring, take some time to assess the condition of your carpeting. You can replace the carpeting or install tile, stone, or laminate that are easy to mop to avoid mold. Uncarpeted surfaces are easy to maintain, especially if you spend a lot of time at the beach or in the woods.

    4. Add New Upholstery

    Toss out your old, moveable furniture for something new. Now is your chance to match your driver and passenger seats to the rest of your decor. Revive old chairs and couches with new upholstery. Shop around to get various quotes or sew the pieces yourself. 

    5. Freshen Up the Walls

    Instead of repainting, consider wallpaper or wood paneling. Wainscot is half-height paneling, usually in wood, but there are plenty of options to bring a classic look to the inside of your RV. With no hard and fast decorating rules in mind, you can alternate between paint and wallpaper at the top areas of the wainscoting.  Keep in mind that RV wallpaper is NOT the same kind that you see in houses, so choose carefully.

    6. Hang Curtains

    Indoor curtains can really transform an RV into a proper home. Whether you make your own drapery or buy it from a store, be sure to measure all windows carefully to determine the type of hardware you can use. When it comes to availability in recreational vehicles, there is no one-size-fits-all.

    Your RV is more than just a camper, it’s your home away from home. Make it as comfortable as possible with these quick makeover tips. Don’t forget to add throw pillows, oil diffusers, and other comforting touches that can turn your RV into a romantic getaway. And, if you’re ready to find your next home on wheels, browse the nationwide inventory of new and used RVs for sale on RVTrader.com.

     

     

    Paul Colbert is a travel blogger and nature enthusiast. He loves exploring new places and new ways to enjoy the outdoors – knowing that he can return to the comfort of his portable home.

  • FMCA: 5 Tips for Renting Out Your RV

    FMCA: 5 Tips for Renting Out Your RV

    The idea of renting your RV to a stranger might sound like a far-fetched concept, an invasion of your privacy, and the last thing on earth that you’d want to do. But what if it didn’t have to be?

    In the past few years, the idea of shared economy business models in companies like AirBnB and VRBO has proven that there are safe and lucrative ways to rent out your property when you are not using it. And as time passes, that same business model has moved into other markets including the RV industry.

    If you are like thousands of other RV owners and are considering making some extra cash by renting out your RV, consider these 5 tips from The Family Motor Coach Association (FMCA).

    1. Do Your Research First

    We suggest poking around on a variety of RV rentals websites to get a feel for the way the process works and what an RV listing looks like to a potential renter. You should also check out testimonials from individuals who have rented their RV’s in the past. What was their experience like? What were the pros AND cons?

    You’ll also want to make sure that you are not violating any contracts with your insurance provider by allowing renters to use your RV. The last thing you would want is to lose your insurance!

    2. Be a Good Host

    If you’re reading this blog, you know that the RV lifestyle is not for everybody. One thing that you’ll realize when you enter the world of RV renting is that the people who are looking to rent an RV are on the fence about becoming RV owners themselves. This is their way of testing the waters to find out if they are indeed the RV-type. 

    Use this opportunity to go above and beyond simply providing them with a place to stay. Be a wonderful host and show them how great RVing can be. Share tips and suggestions with them that you think will make their experience truly unforgettable. If there are useful camping items that you don’t mind letting them use, stock your camper with them. If there are tricks or secrets to using features of your RV that may have a learning curve, share them with the renters ahead of time so that they don’t spend their trip wondering how things work.

    3. Develop a System for Removing Your Belongings

    Even though you’ll likely keep some camping gear for the renter to use, you will want to make sure that you clear out any of your personal belongings before passing your rig off to the curious new RVer. This may seem tedious, but a small task to accomplish for the financial payoff of renting your RV. The more you do it, the quicker the chore will become. If you develop a system, it will eventually be no problem at all.

    The first time or two might take some tweaking but create a checklist while you go and designate a space at your home or a storage facility to keep your personal items. If you plan to rent frequently, it might even be worth investing in a nice set of storage bins or shelves.

    This process may help you realize that you’ve been keeping too much unnecessary clutter in your RV anyway. Each time you repack for your own travels you might decide that some items can stay out, making the process shorter and easier in the future.

    4. Invest the Money Back into Your RV

    Renting your RV can be an incredible money-making experience, and could assist in the costly upkeep of your RV. In fact, if you aren’t an RV owner yet, renting could be the answer to finally being able to afford to make your first purchase! Between upkeep and payments, renting your RV out for just three times a year could greatly offset the cost of ownership!

    Once you receive your first payment, feel free to treat yourself to something nice! But as the money keeps coming in, consider reinvesting some of it back into your RV. Are you in a position to pay it off earlier than you thought possible now? Are there upgrades that you’ve always wanted to make but never could afford? Perhaps you have always wanted to visit Fort Wilderness in Disneyland but never were able to justify it to yourself. Now that you have monetized owning your RV, all of these things are possible! It would even be a good idea to start saving some of the money you earn from renting your RV in case general repairs are needed. 

    5. Stay Within Your Comfort Zone

    If you’re still reading this, it must mean that your curiosity has been sparked a little bit. You might not be eager to welcome a stranger into your home on wheels quite yet – and we get that. This business isn’t for everybody. If you are curious but hesitant, we encourage you to stay within your comfort zone. As an RV owner, you can set all your preferences.

    You can choose who you do or do not allow to rent. You can set specific dates and locations also. Maybe you would be better off renting for a weekend at a state park in your home state a few times before you feel comfortable sending your RV on a cross-country road trip with somebody. 

    Have you rented your RV before? What was it like? If not, is it something you would consider? Let us know in the comments below.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: RV Roof Replacement

    FMCA Tech Tip: RV Roof Replacement

    A complete roof replacement is one of the biggest repair jobs RV owners may tackle. The procedure has been documented online in numerous articles and videos, often by RV owners with little or no previous experience replacing a roof. In fact, this difficult and time-consuming process requires advanced skills in carpentry and general fabrication. Some people undertake it themselves to avoid the high cost of having it done professionally, but bear in mind the cost is a function of the project’s complexity. Before you undertake this task, please consider the following: 

    • You will need an indoor workshop that can house the RV, a covered outdoor space, or an extended period of good weather without rain, probably at least two weeks straight.

     

    • You will have to remove all objects from the roof, including air conditioners. Without a forklift, this is a dangerous procedure, as A/C units are extremely heavy. 

     

    • You will have to lift the roofing materials, including plywood substrate, onto the roof. Again, without a forklift or lifting rig, this is dangerous. 

     

    • Working on an RV roof is inherently dangerous. 

     

    • You must obtain the appropriate roofing material, which will cost at least a few thousand dollars. As an experienced RV technician, I have replaced many RV roofs. It is an extremely labor-intensive project. Please consider having the work done by your local RV shop, which has the needed expertise and equipment. That said, if you believe you have the skills and the proper equipment, or you just want a better understanding of what it involves, read on. 

     

    Be extremely careful at all times while working on an RV roof. Move slowly to avoid a fall. This is not a one-person job, so make sure you have people available to assist.  

    Know Your Roof

    The main RV roofing materials are aluminum, fiberglass, vinyl, and rubber. Know what you have before proceeding with a replacement. You need not use the same material for the new roof, but using a different type will increase the complexity of the job. This article describes replacing rubber with rubber. Replacing another type of material with rubber generally requires extra planning, which is sometimes not evident until the old roof is removed.

    Materials

    Purchase the required materials in the correct quantities before you start the work. You may find you need additional supplies as you go, but be prepared with the basics:

    • EPDM or TPO rubber: Order sufficient length and width to cover the roof in a single piece. The roll of rubber should be long enough to cover the entire length and width of the RV roof, plus at least 6 inches on each side. Rubber roofing generally is available in widths of 8.5 feet and 9.5 feet. 

     

    • Adhesive: To ensure proper coverage, you need at least one gallon for every 175 to 200 square feet of roof. Be sure to purchase adhesive made specifically for the roof material. Some suppliers offer roof installation kits that include the adhesive, butyl, and lap sealant. This can be an economical way to purchase the supplies, but if you have a larger RV, you may want to purchase two kits. I recommend Dicor products for both the membrane and the installation kit. 

     

    • Butyl tape: This seals the fixtures to the roof. You need at least 75 feet of tape for every 20 linear feet of roof. Be sure to use butyl tape and not regular putty tape, as the latter can damage the rubber over time. 

     

    • Self-leveling lap sealant: This is applied generously to every hole and fixture on the new roof. At least three tubes are needed for every 20 linear feet of roof, but it’s very possible that will not be enough. 

     

    • EternaBond tape: This is expensive, and although not required, I recommend it in place of lap sealant, as it is permanent and less messy. Or, you may choose to use a combination of the two. EternaBond, when properly applied to a clean surface, provides a watertight and permanent seal. If you use EternaBond, be sure to refer to the manufacturer’s directions. 

     

    • Substrate: Prior to removing the existing roof material, it may not be apparent whether you need to replace the substrate or how much you need to replace. Usually, 1/4-inch plywood is sufficient, although you may choose to use 3/8-inch. Oriented strand board (OSB) also can be used. 

     

    • Trim strips: You may need new trim strips, or you may need to install them where they don’t currently exist. 

     

    • Screws: It is a good idea to purchase a few boxes of screws in a variety of styles and lengths, including wood screws and self-tapping sheet-metal screws. I usually use 1-inch, 1 1/2-inch, and 2-inch screws. 

     

    • Masking tape or drywall tape: A 1-inch-wide roll is used to tape the seams in the wood substrate. One roll should be sufficient. 

     

    • Miscellaneous: While you are on the roof, inspect all caps and covers for damage. If necessary, replace them.

    Preparation

    Be sure you have plenty of work space around the RV. And make sure you have ample time to complete the project. If the work is being done outside and you encounter a delay, you risk losing the favorable weather. Follow these steps:

     

    • Ladder: If your RV does not have a ladder, it may be because the roof is not strong enough to support your weight. In that case, lay sheets of plywood on the roof for support. If your RV does have a ladder, you will have to remove it, or at least unscrew the roof brackets, so be sure you have an A-frame or extension ladder long enough to safely access the roof. The ladder also is needed to install and remove the side trim pieces and roll out the membrane. 

     

    • Remove sealant: All sealant must be completely removed from all roof fixtures. This is a time-consuming process. Use whatever tools work for you, such as putty knives, as well as plastic and gasket scrapers. Take the time to do it carefully, as you don’t want to damage the fixtures. Once you have stripped the fixtures, remove and save all the screws, which you may want to reuse if they are in good shape. Rusted screws are a sign of water damage, so inspect those areas carefully, as explained below. 

     

    • Remove fixtures: Once all the screws are removed, carefully pry the fixtures off the roof. This can be difficult, because they should be stuck to the roof with butyl putty. Be careful not to damage the fixtures while removing them. 

     

    • Remove air conditioners: Remove the mounting bolts and ceiling plenum, disconnect all cables, and ensure the air conditioner power supply is turned off. A/C units are extremely heavy, so normally forklifts are used to remove them from the roof. You may be able to leave the A/C on the roof, and simply move it around while you work, but I don’t recommend this, as you risk damaging the new rubber. Always get help when lifting or moving an air conditioner. 

     

    • Remove the awning: If you are removing a rubber roof, the RV awning must be removed, along with the horizontal trim pieces and awning drip rail. This is because the rubber roof likely is curled over the edge of the roof and secured under these pieces. Before removing the awning, lock the ratchet in the “extend” position. Then remove the screws holding the fabric to the drip rail, as well as the lag bolts holding the upper mounting brackets in place. Remove the awning arms from the lower brackets and have an assistant grab one awning arm while you grasp the other. Have a third person climb a ladder to ensure the fabric slides out of the drip rail without binding or tearing while you and your buddy walk the awning out of the drip rail. Carefully lean the awning against a wall to prevent damage. 

     

    • Clean the fixtures: I like to clean the fixtures at this point rather than prior to reinstalling them. You may choose to seek assistance with this so you can continue working on the roof. Scrape the remaining sealant and butyl putty from the fixtures. I recommend using an industrial cleaner or silicone remover so they look as nice as the new roof. Further inspect the fixtures for damage and replace them if necessary.

    Removal

    You should find that the rubber is tucked under the front cap, and likely on top of the rear cap. Grab one end of the rubber and pull firmly to release it from the adhesive. You may choose to cut the rubber into smaller pieces to make it easier. Be extremely careful during this step, as the resistance of the rubber against the glue could change at any time. At this point, you should have a bare roof with only substrate exposed.  

    Replacement

    Thoroughly inspect the substrate. If you find rot or damage, consider replacing that section of wood. If any of the substrate is significantly damaged, especially from water, you may need to replace the batt or plastic-foam insulation underneath. In extreme cases with wood-frame RVs, you also may need to do some framing repair. Surprises like this take us back to the recommendation to let professionals tackle roof replacement. If you wish to replace the substrate: 

    • Remove all screws securing the wood to the roof frame. 

     

    • Carefully lift the substrate off the roof framing. Do so in one piece, if possible. Once the substrate is removed, do not walk between the roof rafters. If a number of boards have been removed, you may want to temporarily lay down plywood across the rafters for easier access to the exposed area. 

     

    • Be sure to replace substrate in full sheets. Make sure the replacement substrate is the same thickness as the original. 

     

    • If the substrate has any cutout features, replicate them on the replacement piece. Use the removed piece as a template, or measure on the roof to identify the exact locations for the cutouts. If the feature is a drilled hole for a vent stack or wire access, it must be precisely drilled prior to installing the new substrate piece. If the cutout is a large hole for a vent, air conditioner, etc., mark the location and then drill and rout once the wood is screwed down. 

     

    • After preparing the substrate section with predrilled holes, install it on the roof by securing it with screws, as per the original piece. Countersink the screws so the heads are flush with the surface or slightly below so the screws don’t protrude into the rubber membrane. 
    • Thoroughly inspect the entire roof for loose or protruding screws, wood splinters, etc. Prior to installing the rubber membrane, make sure the substrate is clean and free of any protrusions or anything that might damage the rubber. 

     

    • Sand the substrate anywhere you find splinters or other protrusions. 

     

    • Bevel the perimeter edges of the substrate using a sander or router. 

     

    • Using drywall tape or masking tape, secure all seams that are wider than 1/16 inch. I generally also tape the perimeter edges. 

     

    • Sweep the entire roof or blow it clean using compressed air. 

     

    • Once you are sure the roof is clean and smooth, place the rubber on the roof and roll it out. Make sure it is centered and squared front-to-back and side-to-side, and ensure you have at least 6 inches extra in all directions. 

     

    • The rubber should lay on top of any roof protrusions such as vent stacks. 

     

    • Roll the rubber halfway back toward the center of the RV from either the front or rear. The substrate will be exposed on either the front or back of the RV roof. 

     

    • Use a 9-inch-wide short-nap paint roller to apply the adhesive to the exposed half of the roof according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Some adhesive brands should be applied only to the substrate, while others are applied to both surfaces. Apply it at a rate of one gallon per 175 to 200 square feet. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for set-up time. 

     

    • Using ladders placed on each side of the RV, have an assistant help roll the rubber membrane over the adhesive, being sure not to allow large bubbles or creases. 

     

    • Roll the unglued half of the membrane over the glued half and repeat the gluing process. 

     

    • The adhesive remains pliable enough to adjust the membrane, if needed. 
    • For any protrusions such as vent stacks, use a razor knife to cut a small “X” in the rubber and push it down over the protrusion so it goes through the hole made by the “X.”   

     

    • Use a squeegee or broom to eliminate any bubbles or creases from the membrane. 

     

    • At the front of the RV, tuck the rubber under the front cap, but lay the membrane over the rear cap. 

     

    • To prepare the roof cutouts, cut an “X” from corner to corner of each roof cutout. Fold the cut flaps down into the cutout and staple them to the roof framing. You may trim the flaps later. 

     

    • Stick butyl tape to the original trim pieces, but do not remove the backing paper yet. 

     

    • Replace the upper horizontal trim pieces by removing the paper butyl backing and placing the trim in the same location as it was originally. If possible, line the screw holes up as well. While positioning the trim, firmly pull down on the rubber membrane, but do not stretch it. 

     

    • While holding the rubber, attach the trim to the sidewall and replace the screws. This ensures the membrane is taut along the edges and down the side of the RV. Alternately, you may choose to staple the membrane to the sidewall of the RV, using 1/2-inch staples placed every 5 to 6 inches along the sidewall. Make sure to pull on the membrane while you are stapling, and that the staples lie along the trim line so they are not visible. 

     

    • Replace all roof fixtures, being sure to place butyl tape on the underside along the screw flange. 

     

    • When replacing skylights, be sure to use sealant specifically formulated for the plastic. I recommend Surebond SB-140. 

     

    • Replace the pan gaskets on the air conditioners to avoid water leakage. Tighten the A/C screws so the gasket is half its original thickness. Do not tighten past this point. 

     

    • Using self-leveling lap sealant and/or EternaBond, thoroughly seal all fixtures by generously covering the edges, screw heads, and any other possible point of entry. It’s okay to overcompensate to ensure the roof does not leak. 

     

    • Reinstall the awning by having two people assist with sliding it back into the drip rail. Center the awning fabric in relation to the roller tube and replace the drip rail screws. Squeeze a generous amount of sealant into the top bracket screw holes and reinstall the top bracket. 
    • Trim the rubber membrane wherever it protrudes beyond trim strips. 

     

    As a certified RV technician who has replaced many roofs, I still find this a time-consuming and difficult task. I once again urge you to seek professional help to replace your RV roof. If you choose to make it a do-it-yourself project, beware of the numerous online articles and videos that may do more harm than good.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: What Are Turn Alarms?

    FMCA Tech Tip: What Are Turn Alarms?

    Turn-Alarm can do more than alert drivers that a turn signal is still on.

    It happens to almost everybody. After passing a vehicle on a highway, you forget to turn off the turn signal. Because of distractions such as heavy traffic or sunlight on the dash, you travel a couple of miles without noticing the small blinking arrow on the instrument panel. And if you’re in a motorhome, you don’t hear the faint clicking of the flasher element, because it’s usually mounted on the firewall far under the dash.  

    When we owned a 2007 Allegro Bus motorhome, I eventually began holding on to the turn signal lever when changing lanes so I wouldn’t forget to cancel the signals. Then I heard about a product from Stockton, California-based Daeco, called Turn-Alarm. It replaces an existing turn signal flasher element with one that makes a “beep” sound while the turn signal is on. 

    Later, I found that the Turn-Alarm could have other uses as a warning system, such as alerting me when my satellite dish is up, when the gray-water tank is full, or when the cargo doors are open. But first, let’s focus on Turn-Alarm’s original purpose. I bought a Turn-Alarm that fit my Allegro Bus. Installation was simple — just unplug the original flasher element and plug in the Turn-Alarm. At first, the beep was a bit too loud, but that was easy to solve. A miniature sound transducer is inside the Turn-Alarm’s housing, and sound exits the housing via a 3/16-inch-diameter hole. I reduced the volume by covering part of the hole with a small piece of electrical tape. Twenty-three Turn-Alarm models are available. The Turn-Alarm website shows how to determine the replacement for your original flasher. When in doubt, you can contact Daeco by email or by phone. The basic models are two- or three-pin Turn-Alarms with simple plug-and-play installations. Turn signal flashers either thermally or electronically open and close the circuit, causing the turn signals to flash on and off. Thermal flashers do this by utilizing the resistance in the turn signal circuit, which is why larger flasher elements typically are used when pulling trailers with additional lights. LED lights have extremely high resistance, and they may not function with standard turn signal flashers. For those situations, Turn-Alarm offers a model 262LED flasher.

    Additional Uses

    After we bought our Entegra Coach motorhome, we could rely on a vehicle information display on the instrument panel to warn us, visually and audibly, when the turn signals were left on. So, I did not need a Turn-Alarm for that purpose. However, I found numerous other uses for the device.

    My first task was to add a warning system so that I wouldn’t drive away when my Winegard Trav’ler satellite dish was up. At the time, Winegard offered an optional auto-stow kit (it is no longer being manufactured). Basically, it was a four-wire cable that plugged into the back of the Winegard controller box, and it stowed the dish automatically when the ignition key was on. I didn’t want that, but I did want a warning, and the cable had one wire available for that purpose.   I used a nylon cable tie to place a Turn-Alarm model 262LED flasher behind the dash. I drilled a small hole in the instrument panel and mounted a red LED in it. I then ran 12-volt ignition hot power to the Turn-Alarm’s input tab, connected the ground wire on the 262LED to ground, and ran another wire from the Turn-Alarm’s output tab to the input side of the red LED lamp. I used regular female spade wire connectors to connect to the Turn-Alarm. I then ran another wire from the LED’s output connection to the orange wire labeled “for OEM use” on Winegard’s auto-stow cable. When the ignition key is in the “on” position and the satellite dish is up, the dish’s controller box completes the circuit to ground. The Turn-Alarm sounds the alarm, and the red LED light on the dash flashes on and off. 

    My next task was to add an alarm that sounds when the gray-water tank is full. Our motorhome came with a 709-P3 SeeLevel tank monitoring system. I replaced its display panel with a 709-RVC-PM SeeLevel panel, which includes RV-C communication, as well as a set of programmable alarm contacts that serve as switches to trigger external alarms. I programmed the display to close the contact and act as a switch to activate the alarm when the gray-water tank level rises to 96 percent. I then mounted another red LED lamp in the mud bath area where the monitoring equipment is located, and I added a mini rocker switch so that I can silence the alarm if I want. I placed another 262LED Turn-Alarm behind the panel, and I wired everything in pretty much the same order as in my satellite dish warning scheme, except that I used battery hot power rather than ignition hot power, and I used the SeeLevel contacts to ground the circuit.

    Other Models

    Other Turn-Alarm models offer a remote sound and an LED module that connects via a 3-foot cable to the two- or three-terminal flasher element. Originally designed for motorcycles, the remote models can be used anywhere an operator desires better sound and visibility. In addition, a universal Turn-Alarm, model U-1, is available. It does not require replacement of the turn signal flasher element. The U-1 can be used with newer vehicles that have nonstandard flashers or body control modules. A motion sensor attaches to the turn signal lever via hook-and-loop tabs. A control box, mounted beneath or above the dash, includes the sound transducer orifice and a red LED. An on-off power switch conserves the 9-volt battery’s power when not in use. 

    The Turn-Alarm is an easy way to add an audible alert and flashing warning lamp, whether for turn signals or other applications. In fact, I intend to install a Turn-Alarm for my cargo doors so that I’m warned if they are left open once the engine starts and the park brake is released, or if the doors pop open while I’m driving.

    Daeco Turn-Alarm (209) 952-0923 

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Leveling An RV

    FMCA Tech Tip: Leveling An RV

    One of the first things I do when I enter a new RV park is evaluate the quality of my assigned pad. This inspection is part of the ritual I perform before I pull into a site. Primarily, I assess the site’s length, width, ground type, and exact hookup location, as well as how level the site is. The latter issue is the focus of this article.

    Why Being Level Matters

    One reason an RV should be level is personal comfort. People are used to existing on a horizontal plane. We don’t feel comfortable walking up or down an incline in our RV, or sleeping on an angle (generally speaking, of course). Leveling the RV helps to ensure that your bed is oriented to allow for healthful and restful sleep. It’s hard to cook eggs when the RV is slanted. The list goes on. In addition, an absorption refrigerator can malfunction when it operates outside its manufacturer’s level specifications. According to Norcold, modern fridges work fine at angles of plus or minus 3 degrees side-to-side and 6 degrees front-to-back. Dometic has similar specs. These angles pretty much match what is comfortable to people inside an RV. If you use a bubble level, half a bubble from level should be sufficient for short-term stays, while longer stays should warrant a more concerted effort to center the bubble.

    When To Level

     Generally, an RV should be leveled as soon as you have a suitable pad, although there may be subtle variations as to when leveling fits into the order of operations. For instance, for RVs with powered leveling jacks and slideouts, some manufacturers mandate the slides be extended before the jacks; others specify jacks before slides. Make sure you understand and follow the manufacturer’s recommended order. Also, after extending a slideout, recheck that the refrigerator is level. Before you finalize the RV’s position and begin the leveling procedure, check for clearances for the slideouts, awnings, steps, and entry doors. Look for anything that may interfere, including tree branches and power/water pedestals. Make sure you have enough power cord, fresh-water hose, and sewer hose to reach those services. If you use a satellite dish, be sure you can position it to have a clear view of the sky. Ensure you have enough door-side space for a picnic table and/or eating area. Perform a physical walk-around of the RV prior to final positioning. Look for bumps, dips, and other uneven spots, especially in unpaved areas. Sometimes moving just a few feet can simplify the leveling process.

    How To Level

    First, it is important to understand the difference between stabilizing jacks and leveling jacks. Stabilizing jacks on lighter travel trailers and some motorhomes should never be used to lift the RV. They should be lowered to the ground only until they stabilize the RV, but not enough to take vehicle weight off the wheels and axle. Stabilizing jacks generally utilize a worm-drive shaft with a hand crank (although powered versions are available). If your RV has stabilizing jacks, do not use them to level the vehicle, but lower them to the ground once the unit is level. Leveling jacks, on the other hand, usually are hydraulic or pneumatic (air) rams/pistons (with the notable exception of travel trailer tongue jacks). Make sure you know the difference as indicated by your manufacturer. Both hydraulic and pneumatic systems often incorporate suspension dump capability on RVs with air suspension. This enables the system to evacuate the bags prior to the leveling process, allowing the leveled RV to be closer to the ground.  To level an RV without power levelers, you must carry ramps and/or leveling blocks with you, as well as a bubble level, although good smartphone apps are available for this purpose. If possible, place the level in the freezer compartment, as this is the most significant level surface. Position your ramps or blocks, and then slowly and carefully drive your RV onto them until it is level as indicated on the bubble. Be sure to use a spotter to carefully monitor the tire locations on the ramps/blocks. The biggest risk is driving off the end of a leveling ramp. In addition, be sure the entire tire footprint is supported; otherwise, tire damage can result. With practice, you should be able to identify how many blocks are needed or how far up the ramp you need to go to correct for different off-level conditions. If you have a travel trailer, you often can level the unit using only the tongue jack, but be sure to chock the wheels when you finish the leveling procedure. Indeed, whether you are leveling a motorhome or a trailer, chock all wheels still on the ground, and in the case of a motorhome, set the parking brake. For motorhomes without leveling jacks, position the coach so only the front wheels require raising, as it’s safer and easier to ramp or block the front tires than the rear. If the front wheels must be lifted a significant amount, it may make sense to move to a more level spot.

    Use Of Leveling Jacks

    If your RV is equipped with leveling jacks, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. You may have auto-leveling or manual jacks. As I noted with manual leveling, it’s important to lift only a motorhome’s front axle. Raising the rear wheels off the ground is dangerous because it negates the parking brake feature. The parking brake on the rear axle prevents vehicles from rolling away. If the rear wheels are lifted off the ground, it’s possible the vehicle can roll off the jacks. While some people may argue that the jacks prevent the motorhome from moving laterally, that may not be the case, as the friction between the jack pad and the ground may be insufficient to keep the RV from moving. That is especially true in the case of kick-down jacks, which may be kicked up if the RV is jolted or otherwise disturbed. If you are using leveling jacks, I recommend the use of jack pads. These can be purchased or homemade. They are usually thick, square blocks of a larger size than the jack feet and they are used to increase the stroke of the jacks and/or protect against soft ground by reducing the force exerted over the area. Make sure you don’t end up in a precarious situation when the leveling is complete. If the RV appears unsafe or is raised too much (to the point you can’t enter your RV without a step stool), I recommend you either reposition your RV more favorably or get a different site. This is true regardless of the leveling method you use — ramps, blocks, or jacks. In extreme cases, I have had to leave campgrounds that did not have any available sites that were even remotely level. 

    On a side note, I often am asked my opinion on storing RVs with powered jacks extended to take the weight off the tires. I don’t store my coach this way, since there is risk of corrosion or rust on the extended ram over time, especially in inclement weather. Therefore, I prefer to leave my jacks retracted. I protect the tires by parking on pavement or pieces of wood. Commercial products made of nylon or similar material are available to insulate the tires from concrete, the ground, or other surfaces. I also move the RV periodically to alter the tire positions. Even if your RV has leveling jacks, it is a good idea to use a bubble level or app occasionally. Leveling jacks can go out of calibration, resulting in an out-of-level condition. The bubble level allows you to properly level your RV and determine whether the jacks require calibration. If the jacks report an out-of-level condition when the bubble level indicates the RV is level, follow the jack manufacturer’s instructions to calibrate the system. Also remember to maintain your jacks according to your manufacturer’s instructions. This includes keeping the reservoir topped off with the correct fluid (often transmission fluid) and ensuring the electrical connections are clean and tight. Significant current is drawn from the batteries to power the hydraulic pump, so loose or dirty connections can cause damaging or dangerous arcing. For a variety of reasons, it’s important to level your RV at a campsite. Be sure to understand the methods that apply to you.

    By: Steve Froese, F276276

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Improving the Quality of RV Drinking Water

    FMCA Tech Tip: Improving the Quality of RV Drinking Water

    A variety of products are available to improve the quality of your RV’s drinking water. When you fill your RV with fresh water, it may contain minerals, sediment, and chemicals, as well as bacteria and microorganisms such as cysts that can cause serious health issues. Calcium and lime are minerals that can damage plumbing fixtures. Iron can be equally destructive. Fortunately, water can be treated, but you must determine the type of water-conditioning system that will best meet your needs.

    Filters

    It may be helpful to understand the basics of filters. Filters are rated in microns. One micron equals one millionth of a meter. (For comparison’s sake, the diameter of a human hair can range from about 40 microns to more than 80 microns.) So, a 10-micron filter removes particles that are 10 microns or larger; anything smaller passes through the filter. A 10-micron filter removes smaller particles than a 40-micron filter, for instance. If two filters are similar in size, the filter with the lower numerical rating will restrict water flow more than the filter with the higher rating, because the finer filter media creates more resistance to water flow. Choosing a larger filter with more surface area can restore the water flow to an acceptable level. 

    The material that filters the water — the media — can vary. In a basic filter, pleated paper removes particles much like a vehicle’s air filter does. Once particles fill up the paper pleats, the filter restricts water flow and must be replaced. Other basic filters may employ a blow-molded media that allows the particles to be embedded into the filter with some depth, which results in longer life. Basic water filters are suitable for removing sand and solid particles that are larger than the filter’s micron rating. But they will not remove fine particles or ions that are suspended in the water. So, while they can filter the water, they do not treat it. Granular activated carbon (GAC) filters remove chlorine, sulfur, and other contaminants from water, as well as taste and odor. Some RVers have expressed concern that using carbon filtration to remove chlorine may cause stagnation in fresh-water tanks. 

    A tank’s vent allows chlorine to evaporate anyway. Rather than relying on chlorine to prevent stagnation, make sure the fresh-water tank doesn’t stay filled with the same water for long periods — use the water, or simply drain the tank. Also, sanitize the tank periodically. If the water in the tank is used and replenished regularly, such as when full-timing, you may need to sanitize only annually. But if the RV sits unused for extended periods, you may need to sanitize much more frequently. 

    A drawback to carbon is that bacteria can grow and build up inside the filter. That can be prevented by choosing a bacteriostatic filter with kinetic degradation fluxion (KDF) media, which are high-purity copper-zinc granules interspersed with the carbon. KDF controls the buildup of bacteria, extending the filter’s life. Chlorine, lead, mercury, and hydrogen sulfide are removed, and even iron, to an extent. The GAC/KDF filters cost a bit more than standard GAC filters, but the results are well worth it. Such filters are available from various vendors, including Hydro Life, Pentek, and Flow-Pur. 

    Another option is the Pulsar Quantum Disinfection System by US Water Systems. The filter’s media surfaces have been modified via a patent-pending process. According to the company, tests by the EPA and other certified labs have shown that 99.99 percent of microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast, and algae are immediately destroyed as they come in contact with the media. The drawback is that before water enters the Quantum Disinfection System, it must be prefiltered to remove iron, sulfur, manganese, tannins, turbidity, and suspended solids, which can bind the Quantum Disinfection media.

    Iron

    Iron can affect the color and taste of water, and it can be difficult to remove from water. As noted, KDF-based filters can educe iron to an acceptable level, if the iron content is fairly low. But for water supplies with a fairly high iron content, a dedicated iron filter is required. It also will remove sulfur.

    An iron filter draws air into a chamber where the iron or sulfur is oxidized into particulate. The water then percolates over a bed of filtration media, which traps the iron or sulfur oxides. When it is no longer effective, the iron filter regenerates by backflushing, similar to a water softener. However, no salt or brine tank is required. The filter is simply backflushed with water, and then air is allowed to enter the top of the filter to recharge it. 

    Iron filters can be equipped with manual heads or automatic heads to facilitate regeneration. A drain line must be connected to the gray-water tank or to the sewer to accommodate the wastewater when backflushing, although the water is safe and could be dispersed onto the ground if that is allowed. The media has a long life; it’s likely you’ll never have to replace the filter or its media for as long as you own your RV. Because it does not require disposable filters or salt to operate, it’s basically a zero-cost maintenance item for as long as you own the filter.

    Water Softeners

    Drinking hard water, which is high in mineral content, is not a known health hazard. In fact, the World Health Organization has determined that hard water could be a good supplementary source of calcium and magnesium. However, minerals such as calcium carbonate cause a lime-scale buildup in an RV’s fresh-water system. The scale can restrict flow in cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) water lines and can lead to galvanic corrosion when two dissimilar metals are in contact. Hard water also inhibits soap suds, leaves soap scum after showering, and produces white calcium deposits on dishes and cups after washing. 

    Hard water can’t be treated effectively by conventional filters. Treatment requires a water softener, which consists of a tank filled with polymer resin beads. A softener operates on an ion-exchange principle. The resin is treated with a salt brine that coats the beads with sodium ions. As water passes through the softener, the resin exchanges the calcium and magnesium ions for sodium ions, which effectively neutralizes the hardness in the water. 

    Eventually, the sodium ions become depleted and the resin beads become coated with the calcium and magnesium ions. At that point, the softener can’t treat any more hard water and requires regeneration. During regeneration, the ion-exchange process is reversed. A salt brine passes through the softener, picks up the hard water deposits from the resin media, and carries it into the wastewater through a backwash process. Once these deposits have been removed from the resin, a salt brine runs through the softener to recoat the resin with sodium ions so that it can continue to soften incoming water. 

    Residential softeners have metering systems and regeneration controls that do this automatically, based on the volume of water. But they are too large for use in an RV. Small, portable units for RVs are available but require manual regeneration. 

    To determine when regeneration is necessary, RV owners can use inexpensive test strips to measure water hardness according to a color chart. Regeneration generally involves adding salt crystals like solar salt to a filter housing or chamber, and then running water through the softener to dissolve the salt and carry the brine through the resin beads, treating it as it passes through.

    In my motorhome, I installed a residential-style softener with a fully automated control head from Motor Coach Water Filtration. The compact package fits into an RV’s basement compartment, yet it has the features of large residential softeners, including a separate brine tank. The system is programmable and automatically regenerates the softener when needed. It also uses less salt during the regeneration process than manual systems. Keep in mind that some claims by those selling water softeners can be suspect. Advertising that says a softener will treat a certain number of gallons is misleading. Water softeners treat a given amount of hardness in water. If the water is mildly hard, the softener can treat many more gallons than when treating extremely hard water. Areas such as the Pacific Northwest, the Southeast (except for Florida), and the New England states generally have soft water, while much of the Midwest has moderately hard to extremely hard water, as do portions of the Southwest. Softeners with larger tanks can treat more water between regeneration cycles. 

    For RV owners, storage space is limited, so compromises must be made. If space is not available, you can utilize a large softener and place it outside the RV near the campground water supply. However, to prevent damage to the softener, it must be kept from freezing. Also, softeners should be transported in the vertical position to avoid damaging the strainer basket. 

    Deionized Water

    When you wash and rinse your RV with untreated water, minerals in the water leave spots on the painted finish. Deionized rinse water eliminates those spots. Deionized water has had almost all of its mineral ions removed, such as sodium, calcium, iron, chloride, and sulfate. But deionization does not significantly remove viruses or bacteria. 

    Deionizers are available in a variety of configurations. Like in a water softener, the media in a deionizer eventually gives up its ions and no longer works. It must be replaced or regenerated. Regeneration is feasible only on large-scale applications, because concentrated acid and caustic material are used to strip away accumulated ions through physical replacement. For typical consumer use, such as when washing an RV, replacement cartridges are more desirable. A two-bed system uses separate positively charged and negatively charged ion resin beds. Both types of resin are required to totally deionize water, although mixed-bed systems are available that require only one tank. A mixed-bed system provides the highest water quality, while a two-bed system has a larger capacity. 

    Once the resin has been exhausted, it must be replaced. Some tanks can be refilled with bulk media, while other systems use disposable cartridges. A dual-probe total dissolved solids (TDS) meter, with one probe sampling incoming water and the other sampling the outgoing deionized water, can tell you when the media is no longer functioning. Deionizer media life can be extended by using regular softened water for washing the RV and reserving the deionized water for the final rinse.

    Reverse Osmosis Systems

    In reverse osmosis (RO) systems, water is forced through a semipermeable membrane that filters out contaminants larger than the water molecules; smaller particles remain in the water. An RO system removes contaminants such as arsenic, sodium, nitrates/nitrites, copper, lead, and some organic chemicals. The municipal additive fluoride also is removed. RO systems require pressure to force the water through the membrane. A fair amount of wastewater is involved in the process, and the fairly low water pressure in an RV water system means you expend more water than you purify. Because the filtered water passes through the RO system quite slowly, it goes to a storage tank for use as needed. 

    Water must be reasonably clean before entering an RO system, so prefilters and carbon block filters are used to remove contaminants such as volatile organic chemicals, chlorine, and synthetic chemicals. The end product is RO water that is 95 percent to 99 percent pure. Some experts argue that such water can be too pure, because in addition to harmful contaminants, RO removes calcium and magnesium — minerals that are essential to our health. 

    Reports from the World Health Organization (WHO) point out that while food is our principal source of calcium and magnesium, many people’s diets fail to include the recommended amounts. For some people, “mineral-rich drinking waters may provide substantial contributions to total intakes of these nutrients . . .” a 2009 WHO report said. The report also said it’s worth weighing the potential benefits of systems that remove minerals from water against the potential harm of reducing calcium, magnesium, and fluoride levels below recommended thresholds. 

    You can find experts on both sides of this issue. If you are considering the purchase of an RO system, do some research so you can make a decision that best fits your needs. If you have an RO water system and are con-cerned about the removal of beneficial minerals, you might consider purchasing a remineral-ization kit that adds calcium and magnesium to water. Also be aware that water produced by an RO system has a lower pH, which makes it corrosive to fresh-water plumbing. As a result, brass fittings, faucet fixtures, and water pump components may have shorter lives.

    Sanitation

    Regardless of the filtration method you choose, the system won’t perform its best if bacteria or algae are in the system. You must sanitize the system. Chlorine bleach has its drawbacks. Typically, household bleach is a solution of 5 percent to 7 percent sodium hypochlorite. That concentration drops drastically through gasification — as much as 50 percent in one month — so chlorine as a sanitizer has a short shelf life. Chlorine also penetrates plastic and can harm fresh-water tanks, PEX water lines, and water-pump seals. In addition, when chlorine comes into contact with organic material, it produces trihalomethanes, which are recognized carcinogens. 

    An alternative is Pro Products’ Sani-System, a liquid sanitizer that is EPA-approved for water softeners, RO systems, and water coolers. Sani-System is an ammonium-chloride-based product that is said to kill 99.9 percent of bacteria within 60 seconds, whereas chlorine bleach and peroxides must be in the system much longer to oxidize or kill bacteria. Sani-System is not an oxidizer and won’t harm plastics, rubber, or polyamide RO membranes. And unlike bleach, which leaves a residual chlorine taste and takes time to remove by continued flushing, Sani-System rinses out of the system easily without an aftertaste. It does not harm carbon, but carbon’s porosity makes it difficult to rinse out completely. 

    So, the best practice is to remove carbon filter elements prior to sanitizing and replace them when finished. There is no one-size-fits-all solution to water treatment. Choose a method that works for your situation to ensure that you have a safe water supply and a fresh-water system that runs well.

    Resources:

    CR Spotless Water Systems, C13245 (858) 530-9993 www.crspotless.com

    Motor Coach Water Filtration (239) 776-6002 www.motorcoachwaterfiltration.com

    On The Go (866) 482-9614 www.portablewatersoftener.com

    RV Water Filter Store (602) 625-1875 www.rvwaterfilterstore.com

    Pro Products (Sani-System) (866) 452-7842 www.proproducts.com

    Softcell Recreational Water Systems, C11469 (612) 325-2886 www.softcellwater.com

    US Water Systems (855) 923-6913 www.uswatersystems.com

    Western Water Purifier Co., C7 (800) 559-2837