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  • Where to Boondock?

    Where to Boondock?

    For many RVers, boondocking is their favorite style of camping. Boondocking refers to a style of free camping without access to utility hookups. Now that we know the boondocking basics, we’re covering where to boondock.

    An RVer can boondock in a wide variety of locations. These include public lands, such as national forests and other federally-protected lands, casino parking lots, the parking lots of many businesses, locations offered through several types of membership clubs, rest stops, and more. Here, we will list and describe in detail all the places available for free boondocking across the United States. You may be surprised at just how many places are available!

    1. Public Lands

    Did you know that the United States has over 610 million acres of publicly-owned land across the country? This includes lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), the United States Forest Service (USFS), the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS), and the National Park Service (NPS). Besides the lands managed by the NPS, most of the other public lands across America are open to campers for boondocking purposes. Rangers in federal land offices sometimes refer to this as dispersed camping. Among those who love to boondock, dispersed camping (camping on public lands) tends to be the most popular.

    Credit: Public Lands Foundation

    There are many benefits to camping on public lands. These include gorgeous views, minimal interactions with others, peace and solitude, access to nature in its purest form, and plenty of wide open spaces. However, free access to these gorgeous places comes with a few rules.

    • First of all, campers must ensure that they cause minimal impact to their campsite by leaving no trace and packing out all trash and waste.
    • In addition, all campers must be sure to camp for a maximum of fourteen days, although this number can vary depending on the location.
    • Finally, campers must respect any burn bans that may be in place, as well as any other conditional rules their camping area may have. When in doubt, call the nearest ranger station to double check on the rules.

     

    Camping on public lands is incredible for all those able to experience it, and it is able to be regulated and enjoyed by everyone when campers adhere to the rules in place.

    2. Business Parking Lots

    There are many businesses that also allow RVers to park overnight for a night or two, free of charge. As a general corporate rule, some of these locations include Walmarts, Home Depots, Cracker Barrels, Cabela’s, Bass Pro Shops, K-Marts, Targets, Costcos, and many other places. However, while camping is generally permitted at these locations, city ordinances in certain places may prohibit camping. As with each other free camping location, there is a process you should follow to ensure that camping is actually permitted at each individual location.

    • Start by locating the business where you are thinking of staying. Find the contact information and call, asking to speak with a manager.
    • Once you get a hold of someone, confirm whether or not camping is allowed, and ask if there are any specific rules to follow. This could include allowance of generator usage, where to park, if you are allowed to open your slide-outs, and more.
    • If you are unable to get a hold of a manager, it is not recommended that you try to stay overnight, as this could lead to fines or ticketing. However, keep in mind that most Walmarts are allowed, unless signage indicates otherwise.

     

    3. Membership Clubs

    There are a few membership clubs that RVers can join for access to even more overnight camping. Each of these has a yearly fee, but after paying this one-time price, members can access to many unique locations for an entire year.

    Boondockers Welcome is a great program in which hosts allow RVers to stay on their personal properties for free. Often, this may be in someone’s driveway or even in their backyard. A membership will allow members to gain access to the full repertoire of over 2,000 locations, each complete with information such as number of days permitted, what size RVs are allowed, whether or not the location is pet-friendly, and more. Often, this can be a great option for those camping in cities where overnighting in business lots is not permitted. In addition, it is also great for building a network of friends with similar camping interests.

    Harvest Hosts is another unique program that allows those in self-contained RVs to stay overnight for free at over 1,100 business locations across North America. These include locations such as farms, vineyards, breweries, museums, and so much more. The membership costs a low yearly fee, and members are expected to patron their Hosts’ business, but the total amount spent is still significantly less than what one would spend at a campground. In addition, it gives campers tons of personal and interesting experiences that cannot be found in typical campgrounds or parking lots. Once you have joined, the website’s interactive map allows members to view hosts and details about their location before requesting to camp.

    4. Rest stops

    As a last resort, most rest stops along interstates and highways allow free overnight camping. While this may not be ideal, due to safety, noise, and comfort, this can be a very convenient option when traveling quickly from one place to another. Generally, there are few rules at rest stops. Just be sure to look for signage indicating that camping is permitted before setting up for the night. And as always, keep noise to a minimum, and properly dispose of all garbage.

    5. Casinos

    Finally, many casinos across the United States allow visitors to camp overnight in their self-contained RVs, free of charge. Most of these locations are Native American-owned and can be found in the western half of the United States. This camping option is excellent for those who wish to be near a city and save some money on camping fees. Like dispersed camping, casino camping tends to have a few rules.

    • First, campers will need to check in with security and ask where in the parking lot they are allowed to camp. Typically, there is a set area where the casino owners would like RVs to park if they are staying overnight.
    • Next, you will want to check to see if there are certain hours when generator use is permitted. If there are no set hours, you will want to stick to a 9pm-9am schedule for quiet hours, during which time your generator should be off, out of politeness to fellow campers and your host.
    • Then you will need to check and see how many days you are allowed to stay. This can be anywhere from a single night all the way up to two or three weeks, depending on the casino.
    • Finally, any campers enjoying their free overnight accommodations should be sure to patronize the casino with a small purchase of some entertainment or a meal. After all, the camping is permitted because it is profitable for the casino, so if RVers do not spend any money, the casino may begin to rethink whether or not it wants to allow free overnight camping.

     

    If there is no public land and no casino camping available nearby, then you may look to any of the next three options for free campsites.

    Free campsites are available in almost every area an RVer could wish to visit. Even if you only wish to camp for free occasionally, the money saved can allow you to enjoy even more fun while on vacation. Consider any of these location possibilities for an excellent variety of campsites to choose from. Stay tuned for our next post, where we will discuss what tools are most useful for locating and selecting specific boondocking sites.

    Where do you like to boondock? Did we miss any of your favorite places? Feel free to share in the comments below!

  • FMCA Tech Tip: RV Fire Safety

    FMCA Tech Tip: RV Fire Safety

    Making a plan and having the proper equipment can help to avert disaster. 

     

    An RV fire can quickly lead to devastating damage, injury, or, in the worst-case scenario, loss of life. Therefore, it’s important that RVers implement a fire-safety plan that includes knowing how to exit the RV, having a sufficient number of fire extinguishers of an adequate type and size, installing devices that warn of dangerous levels of smoke and propane (as well as carbon monoxide), and possibly installing an automatic extinguisher for a refrigerator or engine compartment.

    Escape Options

    When a fire breaks out, your first decision is whether to fight it or flee. Because RV fires can quickly become unmanageable, fast action is crucial. Some RV owners place important items in a pouch that they keep near the door, so it’s easy to grab on the way out. The door, of course, may not be accessible. Emergency exit windows are mandated by law, but crawling through one may be difficult. Some windows pop out, but many can slam shut on you, so you may want to keep handy a pole of some sort to hold the window open. You also might have to deal with a significant drop to the ground, unless a picnic table or bench is below the window. Rope ladders can be purchased, but you must be able to find and deploy the ladder quickly to avoid being overcome by smoke inhalation. Rather than an emergency exit window, some Type A motorhomes have an emergency exit door. Whatever your options, it’s important to have an escape plan and practice it with your travelers.

    Fire Classifications

    A fire needs three elements to ignite: fuel (such as wood, carpet, gasoline, diesel fuel, and propane), oxygen, and heat. Fire extinguishers put out fires by removing one or more of these elements. Although RVs come equipped with fire extinguishers, they often meet only the minimum standards provided by the National Fire Protection Association. Many models are undersized and fall short of what’s needed to put out anything but a very small fire. Before we examine the types of fire extinguishers, it’s important to understand how the fires most likely to occur in RVs are classified.

    • Class A fires involve solid combustible fuels (other than metals), such as wood, paper, cloth, and plastics. These are the easiest fires to put out. Water works well. Ideally, an element (such as soap) is added to the water to break the surface tension and separate the fuel from its oxygen.
    • Class B fires involve flammable liquids, such as gasoline, oil, grease, diesel fuel, and alcohol. Water won’t extinguish such fires, because the liquid fuel floats on the water’s surface and spreads to other areas.
    • Class C electrical fires are caused by energized circuits. If a circuit is live, consider the fire a Class C blaze. The wire itself doesn’t burn, but the insulation and anything surrounding it does. Using water on Class C fires can create an electrical shock hazard. Once the circuit is de-energized, the blaze can be treated as a Class A fire.

    Fire Extinguisher Ratings

    Fire extinguishers tested by UL, a global safety certification company, are labeled with a rating that indicates the size and types of fires the extinguishers can put out. Each letter stands for a fire classification — that is, Class A, B, or C. The number preceding the letter A is a water equivalency rating, with each A equal to 1.25 gallons of water. For example, a 2A extinguisher is rated as effective as using 2.5 gallons of water on Class A fires; a 3A extinguisher is as effective as using 3.75 gallons of water, etc. The number rating for Class B and C extinguishers represents the square footage that the extinguisher is designed to handle. So, a 10B:C extinguisher can handle Class B or C fires up to 10 square feet. It’s common to combine ratings on a single extinguisher, such as 2A:10B:C.

    Fire Extinguisher Types

    Using the wrong type of fire extinguisher on certain fires can be life threatening. Following is a brief description of the types of extinguishers and the fire-fighting agents they employ:

    Air pressurized water (APW): Extinguishes Class A fires. APWs are large tanks filled about two-thirds with water and then pressurized with compressed air. Pulling the trigger shoots water from the hose and nozzle.

    Carbon Dioxide (CO?): Extinguishes Class B and C fires. The extinguishers are filled with highly pressurized carbon dioxide, which exits through a hard plastic horn and displaces oxygen from a fire, suffocating it. Because the CO is cold as it exits the extinguishers, it also cools the fire. CO generally is not effective on Class A fires because it may scatter burning particles and may not displace enough oxygen to smother the blaze and prevent it from reigniting.

    • Dry Chemical: Extinguishes Class A, B, and C fires. These are the most popular extinguishers among consumers. The dry chemical is a fine powder that is pressurized with nitrogen. The dry chemical interrupts the chemical reaction that occurs among elements of a fire (fuel, oxygen, and heat). Many RVs come equipped with a 3.9-pound dry-chemical fire extinguisher rated at 1A:10B:C. As a fire-fighting tool, it’s undersized, and therefore its usefulness is extremely limited. If you choose a dry-chemical extinguisher, I recommend a larger one, such as a 9-pound 3A:40B:C. One downside of dry-chemical extinguishers is that they leave a mess. The powder extinguishes electrical fires, but it is corrosive to electrical circuits, so once it’s used, electrical components may need to be replaced. In addition, inhaling or coming into contact with certain types of dry-chemical powders can cause irritation to the nose, throat, and lungs, as well as dizziness and headaches. Over time, the dry chemical tends to settle in the cylinder and become packed down. Therefore, every six months, turn the extinguisher upside down and whack the base with a rubber mallet so that the powder remains loose enough to be expelled. Most of these extinguishers come with a pressure gauge that should be checked regularly. If the gauge indicates a recharge is needed, it may be possible to refill the extinguisher, but usually inexpensive throwaway models simply should be replaced.
    • Clean-Agent Gas: Extinguishes Class A, B, and C fires. These extinguishers use an inert gas to interrupt the chemical reaction in a fire and/or remove heat. Halon has been banned in many areas, because it destroys ozone, but environmentally acceptable clean-agent gas alternatives are available. They leave no mess and don’t conduct electricity. Two types of clean agents exist, flooding and streaming. Flooding types are more gaseous, and often are used in enclosed, unoccupied areas where the gas can’t escape, such as computer rooms and engine compartments of boats. When such extinguishers are used in an open or fan-ventilated area, the gas can disperse, allowing the fire to flare up again. Streaming clean agents, such as Halotron 1, are discharged from a portable extinguisher as a liquid and then turn into a gas. This allows the user to stand back from a fire. Although Halotron 1 is approved for use in occupied spaces, inhaling it should be avoided. It should be used outdoors or in an enclosed area that can be adequately ventilated after use. A Halotron 1 fire extinguisher is capable of putting out a Class A fire, but it is not as effective in doing so as a dry-chemical extinguisher. EX:

     

    • Aqueous Film-Forming Foam (AFFF): Extinguishes Class A and B fires. AFFF is a soap-like foam agent that is mixed with water. The foam blankets a fire, suffocates it, cools it, and prevents reignition. Technically, AFFF can conduct electricity, but in a fire involving high-voltage electrical wiring, the conductors generally short out and trip the circuit breaker, which de-energizes the circuit and removes the fire from the Class C category.
    • High-Expansion Air-Compressed Foam: Extinguishes Class A and B fires. These extinguishers employ a mix of denatured water and a foam. They are more effective than AFFF extinguishers. The foam provides a viscous, nonflammable layer to block air from the fuel. The foam also renders hydrocarbons such as gasoline or oil inert so they cannot reignite. The foam clings to vertical surfaces and produces no toxic gases. Fire Fight Products sells handheld 16-ounce extinguishers, the SS20 ($30 plus shipping), which can be used on small fires, such as on a kitchen stovetop. The best practice is to keep multiple units handy — one in the bedroom, one up front by the entry door, one in an outside storage compartment, and one in the towed or towing vehicle. Fire Fight’s 6-liter SS450 handheld extinguisher ($245 plus shipping) provides significantly more fire-fighting capacity. It comes with a spare can of foam, enough to refill the extinguisher twice. The refill procedure: add distilled water and 8 ounces of foam to the extinguisher, and then charge it with compressed gas. Jim Bounds, CEO of Fire Fight Products, said the company’s fire extinguishers are supplemental fire safety products. Individual components of the fire extinguishers have been tested by UL, but the overall units have not, and therefore they do not carry a UL rating.

    Automatic Extinguishers

    Many RVs have absorption-style refrigerators. They contain an ammonia-based mixture that can release explosive hydrogen gas should the cooling unit rupture and leak. The gas can be ignited quickly by a heat source.

    To control that kind of fire, compact automatic extinguishers that use a clean-agent gas can be installed in an enclosed compartment behind the refrigerator. Fire Fight’s SS30 was designed specifically for this type of application, and it works equally well in generator compartments. Its HFC227 gas can be dispensed through the standard sprinkler-style head or through a remote head attached to the cylinder via a 6-foot-long, stainless-steel braided hose. The cost of the SS30 series is about $250. An automatic extinguisher also can be a good choice for the engine compartment of a motorhome. A leak in a gas-powered coach can result in fuel coming in contact with hot engine parts or electrical components. And in a diesel-powered motorhome, the engine’s turbochargers can reach extreme temperatures, especially when working hard or climbing grades. If a hydraulic fan line or fuel line becomes loose or fails, flammable fluid can spray on the engine bay and ignite.

    One option for engine compartments is an automatic extinguisher using high-expansion air-compressed foam, which coats the fire and reduces the temperature. Fire Fight Products offers such systems in three cylinder sizes: SS100 (2 liters of foam); SS200 (3 liters); and SS300 (4 liters). The head can be mounted directly on the top of the cylinder or can be mounted remotely on stainless-steel braided hoses. The 4-liter system is available with two remote heads to cover larger areas. When the engine is running, a fire may reflash. So, a larger cylinder with a longer run time can allow you more time to get off the road and shut down the engine. Proteng is another company with an automatic fire suppression system. It is available in two versions — standard and heavy-duty. Each is intended to be used in enclosed areas, such as diesel or gas engine compartments, battery compartments, and other electrical areas. The system consists of a polyamide (synthetic polymer) tube that is filled with the clean agent FM-200, which is nontoxic and noncorrosive. When the standard system is exposed to direct flame or temperatures that exceed 158 degrees Fahrenheit, the tube ruptures, releasing the FM-200. The heavy-duty system uses a thicker polyamide tube, which ruptures when exposed to flame or temperatures exceeding 194 degrees Fahrenheit. The length of tube required depends on the size of the area needing protection.

    Fogmaker International AB also offers an automatic fire suppression system for engine compartments. According to the company website, the system dispenses a high-pressure mix of water and aqueous film-forming foam as a dense fog that can decrease temperatures by 700 degrees Celsius (1,292 degrees Fahrenheit) within 10 seconds. The dense water vapor displaces oxygen, and the AFFF prevents reignition of hydrocarbon vapors. A sensor connects to a warning display on the cockpit instrument panel. The cost of automatic systems ranges from about $160 to $900. When a fire in the engine compartment of a diesel pusher deploys an automatic extinguisher, the fire may go unnoticed by the driver for a considerable time. In fact, once the extinguisher is empty, the fire may reignite. Therefore, I recommend that an automatic fire suppression system have a remote alarm that senses pressure loss in the extinguisher. With an early warning of a fire, the driver can safely pull off the road, analyze the fire, and attack it with a handheld extinguisher, if necessary. Most any type of alarm can be used. You can buy a professional alarm or make something as simple as a 12-volt buzzer and flashing light on the dash. Fire Fight offers an optional pressure switch, but you must specify this when ordering a system, because it’s not shown on the company’s website.

    Smoke Alarms

    An effective warning system can be the difference between saving an RV or making a speedy exit while it burns to the ground. The longer an RV is, the more time it takes for smoke to travel from one end to the other, so it’s important to install multiple smoke alarms. They should be mounted on the ceiling or on a sidewall close to the ceiling. Place one in the rear and another in the front of the RV. To avoid false alerts, don’t install one in the cooking area.

    Smoke alarms may utilize ionization or photoelectric sensing technologies, or both. Ionization alarms are more responsive to flaming fires. Photoelectric alarms are more sensitive to smoldering fires, such as when electrical wiring is shorted and its insulation begins to burn slowly with smoke but no flame. In that case, you can shut down the electrical circuit to prevent a full-blown fire. Manufacturers such as Kidde and First Alert make dual-sensor smoke alarms that incorporate both types of sensors in one unit.

    Other Detectors

    If a leak develops in a propane line or if a propane appliance fails, the highly flammable gas can build up inside an RV. Propane is heavier than air, so it settles to the floor where a pilot light or spark can ignite it and start a major fire. That’s why propane alarms generally are mounted very low on an interior wall, next to the floor. Avoid using aerosols such as hair spray and various cleaning agents near a propane alarm, because they can ruin it. Test the alarm regularly. A carbon monoxide (CO) alarm won’t alert you to fire, but the colorless, odorless gas is just as deadly, so we’re including it here. CO, a byproduct of combustion, can come from a furnace with a cracked heat exchanger, or from a vehicle exhaust, or even the exhaust from a nearby camper’s generator. The lighter-than-air gas rises, so a CO alarm should be installed up high. Some RVs come equipped with a combination propane/CO alarm, which is generally located beneath the refrigerator. This is the perfect location for detecting propane but not for CO. If you have such a setup, I suggest adding a ceiling-mounted CO alarm. Some smoke alarms feature a digital LCD display that shows how much CO has accumulated. As little as 250 parts per million over an eight-hour period can be fatal. A good alarm will add up the accumulative amounts to protect you from a slow CO buildup, but less expensive models may sound an alert only if a large amount of CO is present at one time. Keep in mind that alarms for CO and smoke should not be mounted beneath a cabinet. They should be at the highest point in the RV.

    Summary

    When dealing with a fire, it’s important to stay calm, and you’ll have a better chance of that if you’ve rehearsed what to do in any given situation. Discuss and practice how to deal with a particular fire and whether to fight it or just safely exit the RV. Know your escape route and method so you don’t have to figure it out in an emergency. Be sure to outfit your RV with adequate fire extinguishers in multiple locations to cover your needs. Install smoke, propane, and carbon monoxide detectors in places where they will be most effective. Knowledge is power. Attend a fire and life safety seminar at an FMCA convention. You’ll gain immeasurable knowledge to help stay safe in your RV travels.

    Equipment Suppliers

    Fire Extinguisher Recall

    The recall of millions of Kidde fire extinguishers has been widely reported, but it bears repeating. The recall involves models of Kidde extinguishers with plastic handles that were manufactured from January 1, 1973, to August 15, 2017. The fire extinguishers can become clogged or require excessive force to discharge and can fail during a fire emergency. To determine whether you have an affected model and to request a free replacement fire extinguisher, contact Kidde at (855) 271-0773 or visit www.kidde.com and click on the “Product Safety Recalls” box.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Water Heater Maintenance For Your RV

    FMCA Tech Tip: Water Heater Maintenance For Your RV

    Take care of your water heater and you will be sure to have a reliable supply of hot water during your travels.

    Prolonged showers at home may be taken for granted. While traveling in an RV, a hot shower might involve an interesting test of timing, especially when more than one person is considered. It is truly the experienced RVer who is aware of just how long it takes four to 16 gallons of hot water to trickle down the drain, even while practicing sound water conservation.

    The typical RV water heater, however, like any propane-burning appliance, requires occasional maintenance in order to maximize its potential. Fortunately, the water heater is usually easy to access, with most mandated tasks doable by most RV handypersons. The water heater is typically situated at a comfortable height, and most components are located on the outside of the RV behind a vented door. Some older models may have parts and pieces at the rear of the unit, but for the most part, newer units have their components on the exterior.

    Types Of Water Heaters

    The most common type of water heater found in campers today is the direct spark ignition (DSI) model. To use this fully automatic model, all an owner has to do is to make sure the heater is properly filled with water and then flip a switch. A circuit board controls all its relative functions. Since it’s the most prevalent, the DSI type will be the focus of this article.

    The second most popular choice of RV builders today is the pilot-type heater. Simple in design and function, pilot-type heaters have been an RV industry mainstay for years. Even though they are less expensive than their automatic cousins, they are less popular. It appears that automation wins out over economics.

    Another type of water heater is the electric-only version. Powered by 120-volt-AC electric, these units operate only when plugged into a shoreline or when onboard generator or inverter power is available. As many manufacturers of larger RVs move toward all-electric appliances, this type is sure to become more popular. They are plentiful in the marine world as well.

    Most water heaters today combine propane and electric power. An electric heating element protrudes into the tank portion of the heater, which allows the RV to utilize propane while dry camping, or power the water heater with 120-volt-AC electricity while plugged in. (Quick note: if your heater is a combination gas/electric-type model, and AC electricity is available, you can quickly bring the water temperature up by operating the unit on gas and electric at the same time.) It is not advisable to install an aftermarket electric heating element designed to replace the drain plug. Use only manufacturer-approved replacement parts.

    An internal heat exchanger (motor-aid) is another option offered by water heater makers. This feature allows the motorhome’s engine coolant lines to be routed through tubing inside the storage tank, thereby heating the water while the engine is running. By the time the user reaches a destination, hot water is readily available at the faucets. While this may be convenient, the maintenance factor becomes greater with motor-aid models, because the hoses periodically need to be replaced. On some of the larger Type A motorhomes, this could be an expensive, yet necessary, undertaking. Akin to some models of RV refrigerators, water heaters, too, are available using three different energy sources.

    Yet another type of water heater is making a comeback in the RV industry: the weight-saving tankless heater, which is commonly called an instantaneous water heater. This design does not involve an actual storage tank. Incoming water flows through a coil that is heated by super-sized propane burners. The flame is lit only when there is a demand for water. As soon as the hot faucet is turned off, the burner goes off as well. Activation is automatic via an impeller-type switching valve.

    Finally, many owners of diesel-powered motorhomes may be familiar with hydronic heating systems in which individual zones within the coach are comfort-heated independently, while at the same time domestic water is heated and delivered to all the hot faucets inside the motorhome. Since 1984, hydronic heating systems have been installed in many brands of motorhomes. Because this type of system requires specific, atypical maintenance procedures, we’ll leave hydronic heating maintenance to a future blog. Our focus here will center on the typical DSI propane RV water heater found in thousands of RVs.

    Water Heater Components

    Components found on every propane water heater containing its own storage tank (pilot and DSI-type) include:

    • an inner storage tank
    • a pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve
    • a drain plug; a main burner orifice
    • a mixing tube
    • the primary air adjustment.

    What follows is a brief description of each of these parts and their maintenance requirements.

    Storage tank

    The inner tank is surrounded by insulation and typically encased with cardboard, foam, or metal. Water heaters are usually installed under a cabinet, so other than the access door, external aesthetics are not necessarily a consideration.

    Flushing the tank is the main task to consider. To extend the life of the tank and to eliminate the buildup of mineral deposits inside, flush the heater at least a couple times each season. Mineral deposits settle to the bottom of the tank, so simply draining it will not completely rinse out these deposits, as the drain outlet is not positioned at the very bottom of the tank.

    Pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve

    As a safety component, the P&T valve often has been viewed by RVers as an enigma of sorts. Many P&T valves have been unnecessarily replaced, deemed defective simply because they sometimes dripped water. But that is by design. Here’s why:

    As any contained liquid is heated and the temperature rises, the content will expand and become pressurized. Without a means to regulate or control this expansion during the heating cycle, the unchecked pressure and temperature could eventually rupture the tank, resulting in serious injury. Water temps exceeding 210 degrees Fahrenheit are considered unsafe. Therefore, all P&T valves on today’s heaters are preset to open at 210 degrees. In the small confines of the RV water heater, the water is heated relatively quickly, so keeping up with the drastic fluctuations of both temperature and pressure is extremely important.

    It is also important that a cushion of air be maintained inside the tank, above the level of the water. This air pocket acts like an accumulator during hot water delivery and also allows space for the water to expand during the heating cycle. Over time the oxygen in this air pocket is absorbed into the water, with the net result being a completely filled tank, with no void above.

    At this point, there is no place for the expanding water to move into since the tank is literally full. The P&T valve then does its job — it opens. Expelling hot water from the outlet of the P&T valve allows cold water to enter the tank (thus lowering the temperature) and the relief valve closes.

    P&T valves will fail over time, but, by and large, all will drip on occasion. If an adequate air cushion is maintained, the P&T relief valve should not leak. If an adequate air cushion is not maintained, then it is normal for the valve to drip water. If the valve drips or weeps during nonheating phases and the pressure within the fresh water system is regulated properly, then the relief valve may indeed be faulty.

    Drain plug

    All water heaters have a drain of some type. Older models incorporated an actual drain valve, while modern units use a threaded plug. Atwood (www.atwoodmobile.com) installs a plastic pipe plug. Many owners have mistakenly and inappropriately replaced the plastic plug with one made of brass. The plastic plug actually serves as a redundant safety device and should never be replaced with a metallic plug. If the plastic plug becomes damaged, always replace it with an Atwood plastic plug.

    Atwood water heaters, by the way, do not require an anode, since their inner tanks are constructed of aluminum alloy. Do not cave into aftermarket attempts to sell you an anode for an Atwood water heater.

    Suburban (www.rvcomfort.com) incorporates a component called an anode rod into its drain plug. Designed as a sacrificial element, the magnesium anode keeps electrolysis to a minimum and extends the life of the inner tank. All chemical and mineral reactions taking place inside the tank will attack the “weaker” molecules of the magnesium anode instead of the tank walls. Periodically, this sacrificial anode will have to be replaced. A deteriorated anode rod also may produce a less-than-favorable odor that can permeate the water system. Replace the Suburban anode rod/drain plug when it is reduced to 25 percent of its original size. On older American Appliance heaters, the anode will be accessible inside the motorhome at the rear of the heater.

    Main burner orifice

    The main burner orifice is threaded into the gas control valve outlet fitting. It directs a specific amount of propane into the next downstream component, the mixing tube. The orifice can be removed, soaked in acetone, allowed to air dry, and reinstalled. Never insert anything into the orifice. A simple acetone cleaning is all that is necessary to keep the gas flowing properly.

    Mixing tube

    The mixing tube is where the propane and the primary air are mixed just prior to combustion at the main burner. This tube, though not a precision component, must be kept clean, and more importantly, properly aligned.

    As gas is projected through the main burner orifice, air is drawn in through the openings in the mixing tube. This “Venturi effect” brings in air that is needed to mix with the propane in order to have safe and complete combustion.

    Make sure the mixing tube is properly centered on the main burner orifice fitting and that the alignment with the gas control valve is correct. Misalignment is one of the most common reasons for improper combustion in water heaters. The mixing tube should be in line with the flow of gas and positioned so the orifice is aimed at the direct center of the opening to the mixing tube.

    This is the component that’s most prone to critter infestation, such as insect and spider nests, so make sure to check and clean it out often.

    Primary air adjustment

    As mentioned, the opening in the main burner orifice has a specific-size opening, so the only variable in the gas/air ratio is the amount of primary air allowed to enter. The primary air adjustment controls the volume of this incoming air.

    The primary air adjustment is manipulated while the main burner flame is ignited. The flame should appear mostly blue in color with some orange or yellow tinges. Proper adjustment is attained when the flame is the correct color and also when the burner does not produce a loud, roaring flame. If you can hear the burner more than 5 feet away with the water heater door closed, chances are the mixture is incorrect and further adjustment is necessary.

    In addition to the common components listed above, DSI models also incorporate a thermostat, an energy cut off (ECO) switch, a circuit board, a solenoid gas valve, and an electrode assembly.

    Thermostat

    Longtime coach owners might remember when all water heaters were controlled by a manually adjusted thermostat. A lever or knob was manipulated to make the water hotter or colder. With a DSI heater, adjustment of the water temperature is out of the RVer’s hands. On most units the thermostat is a preset, temperature-sensing, normally closed thermal switch that electrically turns off the heating sequence when the preset temperature has been attained. The nonadjustable thermostat is a thermal disc device secured to the front or rear of the water heater in direct contact with the inner tank. Most thermostats for DSI water heaters are preset for temperatures between 120 degrees and 140 degrees Fahrenheit. In some cases, a thermostat can be replaced with one of a higher or lower temperature rating.

    ECO switch

    Wired in-line between the circuit board and the gas valve, in series with the thermostat is the ECO switch. Some may contain a resettable push button; others will automatically reset once the water temperature drops below the preset temperature rating of the ECO switch. The ECO switch and the thermostat are considered high-temperature safety devices to help protect the appliance and the user. Other than keeping the wire connections clean and tight, no maintenance is required for the ECO switch or the thermostat.

    Circuit board

    The circuit board is the heart of any DSI appliance. Similar to a furnace board, the circuit board for a water heater energizes and opens the gas solenoid valve; creates a high-voltage spark that ignites the burner; monitors the flame sense circuit from the electrode assembly; and places the unit into lockout when it fails to detect a flame. Clean the contact strip where the multipin connector plugs in. Consider purchasing a product called DeoxIT (www.caig.com). Small amounts of corrosion, invisible to the naked eye, can prohibit proper current conduction, often resulting in strange operating characteristics. Keeping the board contacts clean and preserved will minimize or eliminate erratic operation.

    Solenoid gas valve

    The solenoid gas valve is controlled by the circuit board. The incoming gas tube attaches to one side of this valve while the main burner fitting and orifice are located at the other end. Energized by a 12-volt-DC electric coming from the circuit board, the gas valve will remain open as long as it is receiving voltage. The gas solenoid valve closes only under the following normal conditions: when the water temperature reaches the maximum thermostat rating; when the ECO trips and opens; and when the 12-volt-DC power supply is interrupted from the circuit board.

    As with the thermostat and ECO, just keep the electrical connections on the gas valve clean, dry, and tight.

    Electrode assembly

    The electrode assembly receives the high-voltage output from the circuit board and creates an electrical arc to ground. At the same time, the gas and air mixture is forced to flow through this electrical arc, initiating fuel ignition at the burner. The electrode probe also “senses” the presence of the flame and sends a micro-amp signal back to the board, allowing the gas valve to remain open. If the flame is extinguished for any reason, the micro-amp circuit between the electrode and board is broken, and the board shuts off the voltage to the gas valve, thereby closing it and stopping the flow of propane.

    This electrode assembly is susceptible to carbon buildup and heat stresses over a period of time. Many circuit boards have been replaced in error when the cause of an outage has simply been a dirty electrode assembly. Periodically removing the carbon deposits and brightening each electrode will help keep the heater working properly.

    Carbon deposits can be cleaned off and the probes brightened with steel wool. Inspect the probes and replace the entire assembly when the probes become pitted or if a portion of the ceramic insulator is broken. Check the gap between the probes. If the electrode assembly has three probes, the gap between the spark probe and the ground probe should be half as large as the gap between the ground probe and the flame sense probe. Manipulate only the center ground probe to achieve this spacing differential. If the arc jumps from the spark probe to the flame sense probe, it will damage the circuit board, which could be an expensive consequence.

    If the electrode assembly has only two probes, the gap between them should measure approximately 1/8-inch. Take care when adjusting these probes. If any portion of the ceramic insulator becomes cracked or broken, the entire electrode assembly will have to be replaced.

    There are also variables outside the water heater unit that need to be maintained and monitored for optimal performance.

    Battery voltage

    To operate correctly, the incoming DC voltage must be maintained between 10.5 and 13.5 volts to all DSI appliances, whether on battery power or through the converter. Also, do not overlook the negative side of DC circuitry. A faulty ground connection at the water heater can cause erratic operation and outages.

    Propane gas pressure

    At least once each year, have a professional RV service technician measure and adjust the propane delivery line pressure, evaluate the regulator lockup pressure, and have the entire propane system checked for leaks. These tests will ensure all the propane-burning appliances are fed the proper gas pressure. Ignoring this can lead to intermittent operation, appliance failure, undetected leaks, and regulator failure. It is a safety issue.

    Additional Water Heater Tips

    At least once (maybe twice) during the camping season, it will be necessary to perform the described maintenance procedures on the water heater. Remember, the heater’s controls are exposed to the elements; therefore road grime, dust, and dirt have ample opportunity to gather in and around the various components. Periodically blowing the exposed areas of the water heater with compressed air will help to minimize this condition. Likewise, soot and remnants of combustion will gather in the flue portion of the heater. Blow through the flue occasionally with compressed air as well. Be sure to wear eye protection when performing this step, as flying debris will be present.

    Though most RVs come from the factory outfitted with a water heater bypass kit, it is advised to install one if yours is not so equipped. Permanently attached to the rear of the water heater, the valve configuration of a bypass kit allows the water heater to be closed off from the rest of the fresh water plumbing system. This is helpful when the RV’s plumbing system is winterized and RV antifreeze is used.

    Purchase a kit equipped with metallic valves. Plastic bypass valves can contribute to water heater operational issues such as intermittent hot water and low hot water pressure, among other symptoms. Brass valves will not distort with prolonged exposure to heat, and they are not prone to failure.

    In addition, there might be a one-way check valve positioned at the cold inlet fitting at the rear of the water heater (there also may be one at the water heater outlet). This prevents heated water from migrating out of the heater and back into the cold water plumbing. Normally, this isn’t an issue, but if there happens to be a cold water tee plumbed into the system fairly close to the rear of the water heater, heated water can be drawn into another fixture, such as the toilet. It can be a bit unnerving to see steam rising from the toilet whenever it’s flushed. You chuckle, but it has happened!

    Although a check valve has no maintenance requirements, it is mentioned in case your water heater does not have one at the cold inlet. It’s relatively easy to install, and it just may save the heater from expending unnecessary energy trying to heat water in the cold distribution piping just outside of the water heater itself.

    The Wrap-Up

    As with many items aboard the RV, preventive maintenance practices will not only extend the life of the water heater, but they can eliminate, or at least minimize, those pesky interruptions during excursions. As usual, if you do not feel comfortable performing any of the procedures listed here, do not attempt them. Simply call your local RV service shop. Service centers employing certified or master certified technicians stand more than ready to perform this service for you. And remember, RVing is more than a hobby; it’s a lifestyle!

    How to Correctly Flush the RV Water Heater

    1. Make sure all energy sources to the water heater are turned off and that the water inside the tank has cooled.

    2. Turn off all sources of water pressure — the demand pump and the city water supply — and bleed off the water system pressure by opening a faucet.

    3. Drain the water heater by removing the plug. To aid in draining, open all the hot faucets throughout the RV.

    4. If water barely trickles out of the drain opening at this point, carefully insert a straightened coat hanger into the tank to help break up any calcified deposits. Take special care not to scrape the inner sides of the tank, or damage may result.

    5. Use a water heater cleanout tool to help flush mineral deposits. When all evidence of cloudy water has been eliminated, close all the hot faucets opened earlier and turn on the city water supply or the demand pump — the higher the pressure, the better. If a pressure regulator is normally used in-line with the city connection, temporarily remove it for this step.

    6. Open the pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve and allow water to gush from the drain opening as fresh water rushes in.

    7. Allow this flushing to continue for five to 10 minutes. This will remove any stagnant water along with any remaining mineral particles in the tank.

    8. After about 10 minutes of flushing, turn off the water source; reinstall the drain plug; and close the P&T valve by allowing the lever to snap shut.

    9. Turn on a water pressure source once again and open all the hot water faucets inside the coach until water flows freely from all hot faucets. This will automatically fill the water heater and eliminate air pockets in the distribution system.

    10. Finally, turn off the water source but leave the hot faucets open. Then open the P&T relief valve once again to release any water at the top of the tank. This establishes that needed cushion of air on top of the water. Remember, this air gap is necessary so the heated water will have room to expand. When water stops dripping from the P&T valve, close the hot faucets inside the motorhome and the P&T valve. The heater is now ready for operation.

    FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tech tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Learn more at FMCA.com.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: RV Storage – Some Do’s and Don’ts For RV Storage

    FMCA Tech Tip: RV Storage – Some Do’s and Don’ts For RV Storage

    As we move further into fall, memories of our summer RVing excursions may still linger in our minds. But with the coming chill, so too does the thought of putting our faithful RV into storage mode. Though a seemingly mundane task, there is a correct methodology for getting your coach ready for any period of non-use; especially if you are contemplating utilizing one of the available private or public storage facilities. Certain precautions, correctly applied, will guarantee your coach will stand a better chance of surviving its secluded hibernation.

    The first necessary decision is whether to store your rig at home or off-site at a dedicated RV storage facility. If you have a relatively level space at your residence, there’s no need to spend the bucks at a facility unless security is an issue. But keep in mind, many municipalities are cracking down on stored RVs within residential areas, even those parked on the street. It is your responsibility to learn if your home base has any new RV restrictions. Also check your existing Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&R’s), if applicable.

    RV Storage Locations

    Everything from a vacant dirt lot to an indoor five-star, temperature-controlled facility can be considered for parking your rig for any period of non-use. When deciding which level of sophistication (and subsequent degree of expense) to evaluate, the primary concern should always be the overall security and welfare of your RV. A nicely paved, inexpensive level lot behind a locked gate might sound appealing, but if its location is remote, it might not be a wise choice. An isolated location might be susceptible to vandals or break-ins. Do your homework when considering such a location.

    Preparing the RV

    Flush and drain every holding tank. The fresher the tanks, the better the chance of minimizing sewer odor build-up and blockages. Don’t forget to flush and rinse the sewer hose as well! If possible, lubricate the termination valves, but leave them in the closed position.

    Some RVers remove every drop of water from the fresh water plumbing system, but if below freezing weather is anticipated, I recommend the wet method of winterizing, whereby RV anti-freeze is pumped throughout the fresh water piping system and poured into every P-trap. Enough anti-freeze should also be flushed down the toilet and sinks; just enough to cover the bottom of each holding tank.

    Ensure the propane container is turned completely off and that all the appliances are off. Check the integrity of the cover over the propane regulator.

    If outdoors, cut cardboard inserts to position inside the water heater and refrigerator exterior access panels to keep the dust and dirt accumulation to a minimum. Cover the furnace intake and exhaust assemblies with blue painter’s tape to keep insects from entering.

    Place an opened box of baking soda or an appropriate desiccant/absorbent inside the refrigerator food compartments and prop open the refrigerator door(s).

    If possible, remove the batteries when expecting sustained below-freezing temperatures or if the coach will be in a remote, unsecured location. Always fully charge all batteries before storing the rig. Once fully charged, employ the battery disconnect device, if so equipped, or at the very least, remove the ground terminals from the batteries to disconnect them totally. Remove all dry cell batteries too!

    Turn off all 120-volt (AC) circuit breakers and unplug any device that plugs into a receptacle, such as the refrigerator, microwave/convection oven, washer, dryer, entertainment centers, icemakers, televisions, etc. Rogue lightning strikes, even a couple hundred yards away, can cause problems. Expensive problems!

    Thoroughly inspect the underneath portions of the RV. Look closely for any cracks or openings into the floor or interior of the coach. Seal around drain piping, propane tubing, and electrical harnesses that extend through the floor into the living areas of the coach.

    When parked on asphalt, use non-absorbing, synthetic blocks under the footprints of the tires. If stored outdoors, cover the tires to minimize UV and ozone contamination and obscure the windows to avoid sun damage and the fading of fabrics. In high moisture locales, place absorbent desiccant inside the two major living sections of the RV.

    Consider using a total coach cover, but take precautions to keep the cover from rubbing on the roof or at the edges. This can be damaging to synthetic roofing materials such as EPDM rubber or TPO. At the very least, it’s a wise decision to install a rooftop air conditioner cover if a coach cover is not used.

    If possible, leave a roof vent cracked open slightly at one end of the RV and a window cracked open at the opposite end. This will induce a bit of convection airflow inside the coach to minimize the progression of mold and mildew.

    Check all window, roof vents and door seals and weather-stripping. As I often mention, moisture intrusion is the biggest cause of RV damage. Also, treat all exposed exterior surfaces with the appropriate protectant.

    Periodic Visitation

    When possible, visit your hibernating rolling home from time to time; especially if the period of non-use extends past just a few weeks. It’s a wise RVer who changes the position of the RV at least once a month, moving it forward or backwards slightly, to alter the footprint of the tires to prevent flat spots from developing. Just a foot or two is usually all that is required.

    It is also recommended to periodically start a gasoline motorhome engine and to exercise a gasoline generator, when so equipped. Consult the owner’s manual for your make of chassis and generator for specific instructions, but the general consensus is to run the generator for a couple of hours at half-load, at least once a month, in order to prohibit varnishing of the fuel. One single two-hour run at half-load is much better than a bunch of short runs. Diesel-powered RVs and generators will likely require different procedures, so be sure to follow the recommendations of the manufacturer to avoid performance issues when it’s time to awaken your resting rig from its respite.

    Once a month, carefully inspect the roof for entry points of water intrusion if a total coach cover is not employed. Always perform roof repairs as soon as leaks are discovered. Do not wait until you remove the coach from storage! Any damage will only get worse over time.

    When it is time to remove your RV from storage, always consult with the facility manager to absolve any dispute or damage issue possibly incurred during the storage period before moving the RV. Be sure to re-activate your full insurance coverage!

    By carefully determining and acknowledging your requirements ahead of time, and wisely choosing the best-suited storage location, your RV will safely endure its period of non-use and present itself ready for the next step, the spring shakedown! And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!

  • Tech Tip: RV Waste Management 101

    Tech Tip: RV Waste Management 101

    It’s the topic that no RVer enjoys. However, waste containment and odor control are necessary aspects of RVing. FMCA and the “RV Doctor” Gary Bunzer present RV Waste Management 101.

    The Basics

    Your RV’s waste plumbing is made of two components: the gray system (liquid waste) and the black system (solid waste). Gray tanks can be outfitted with a drain opening as small as 1-1/2-inch. Black tanks are required to have a 3-inch outlet. As many RVers know, any accumulation of waste within these drain openings or the holding tank system can lead to odors.

    Nothing can ruin an RV trip faster than having holding tank odors permeate the RV’s interior, so let’s examine the common causes of RV odors…

    P-traps

    The first line of defense against invading fumes is the water lock, which is established by P-traps located below the sinks and tub/shower drains.

    Long a staple in the plumbing industry, the common P-trap works well in residential homes. However, because of the seasonal nature of RVing, P-traps in RVs typically are used less frequently, which can result in the P-trap’s water seal becoming diminished. The jostling that occurs while traveling; improper siphoning action during highway turns and tank evacuations; or simply drying out from non-use can render the water seal ineffective at blocking odors.

    In addition, the P-trap requires diligent maintenance, including frequent cleanings and freeze protection. If neglected, waste residue inside the trap can foster bacteria growth and subsequent odors.

    However, there is an alternative to the common P-trap: the HepvO waterless sanitary valve. Available in the aftermarket and now found on many RVs right from the factory, the HepvO waterless valve replaces the P-trap, creating an effective seal against odors. This sanitary valve is constructed with a self-sealing, flexible, silicone membrane that allows water to flow through it but completely closes off when water flow stops. Therefore, holding tank odors are prevented from migrating up and through the sinks, tub, or shower.

    The Toilet

    As for the toilet, keep water in the bowl at all times, though that may be challenging when the RV is stored. Still, with water in the bowl, you are guaranteed that no holding tank odors can escape into the RV’s living area.

    If your RV’s toilet will not hold water, chances are it is time to replace the internal seals and gaskets. You’d be surprised to see just how many seals are used in an RV toilet! Dry toilet seals are the main sources of black tank odors. Most toilet manufacturers offer gasket repair kits. Most likely, this type of maintenance will be necessary at some point during your RVing career.

    Waste System Venting

    Venting is required for both the black and the gray systems. How do RV manufacturers accomplish this? The common method is to run a length of thermoplastic ABS pipe from the holding tank up and through the roof of the RV.

    The importance of proper venting cannot be overstated, especially as it relates to odor control. Without correct venting, sinks will not drain properly; bacteria can propagate; and holding tanks will not drain as quickly or completely.

    Keep in mind, as a holding tank empties or a sink drains, fresh air must enter the drainage system. Since holding tanks rely solely on gravity for emptying, having air enter the system as sinks and tanks are drained results in a faster and more thorough process. To accomplish proper air flow, there are two types of vents used in RV waste systems: direct exterior vents and anti-siphon trap vent devices.

    Vent Type #1 – Direct Exterior Vents & Maintenance

    Direct exterior vents connect the waste system to the atmosphere outside. As mentioned earlier, most RV manufacturers install a vertical piece of ABS piping up and through the roof for both the black and gray systems. (If you own a small RV, it is possible your RV has a different type of direct vent: a side-mounted vent. Side venting is only permissible in the liquid waste system and only found on compact RVs.)

    Sometimes RV manufacturers cut a large hole in the ceiling and roof during installation of the vertical vent pipe. Oftentimes, this opening is not sealed properly around the outside perimeter of the pipe. In other instances, the vent pipe itself may not extend far enough above the roofline; the industry rule is that the vent pipe must extend at least 2 inches above the roof. If the vent pipe is not sealed properly, tank odors can pass up the direct exterior vent; collide with the underside of the sewer vent cap; be forced back down the sides of the vent pipe; travel into the ceiling area; and then migrate to the living area.

    To ensure this doesn’t happen in your rig, remove the sewer vent(s) on the roof and ensure the space around the vent pipe is sealed tightly. Also, make sure that the pipe itself stands at least two inches above the roof. If necessary, extend the vent by using a common ABS coupling and a short piece of pipe.

    In addition, depending on how the vent is attached to the top of the holding tank, vent pipes have been known to fall down inside the tank below the surface of the waste, nullifying any venting action and allowing odors to exit the tank. By inspecting the vent termination on the roof regularly, this can be avoided.

    Vent Type #2 – Anti-Siphon Trap Vent Devices (ASTVD) & Maintenance

    The second type of vent is the anti-siphon trap vent device (ASTVD), nicknamed “check vents.” These are used as secondary vents to aid in draining sink fixtures. They allow air into the drainage system but prohibit air from passing out of the system. ASTVDs are installed in the liquid drain piping system at or near a P-trap inside a cabinet. Look under your RV’s kitchen and bathroom sink areas to find them. They are mounted at least 6 inches above the P-trap’s horizontal arm. ASTVDs do not allow odors to escape into the living portion of the RV, thanks to a pressure-controlled, rubberized, one-way valve. In other words: air in but not out.

    The rubber membrane employed in ASTVDs can sometimes dry out and become stuck in the open position. If holding tank odors are prominent under a galley or bathroom cabinet near the P-trap, chances are it is time to lubricate the rubber seal inside the ASTVD. Use lubricant to moisten the rubber diaphragm. Since it is located above the actual flow of waste water, the ASTVD is simply threaded into a fitting above the trap arm and can be easily removed for periodic maintenance.

    Tank Additives

    Enzyme-based, bacteria-infused blends have proven to be the most effective type of tank additive. These blends actually digest the odor-causing molecules at the source inside the waste tanks, thereby eliminating odors rather than masking them.

    Some holding tank treatments may consist of harmful chemicals such as formaldehydes. Try to avoid these if possible. The issue of chemical products has prompted many state parks, campgrounds, dump stations, and local municipalities to ban the evacuation of RV holding tanks if such chemicals are used.

    Remember that, to a certain extent, RV holding tanks are living, thriving environments. Anti-bacterial soaps, detergents, or DIY treatments can destroy the “good bugs” that are beneficial in helping the elimination of odors.

    Tank Monitoring and Blockage

    Most RVs today feature some visual method to help owners determine the fluid levels in the holding tanks. This is normally accomplished with “through the wall” monitoring sensors attached to the tanks. Others use externally applied, electronic sensors. It’s those “through the wall” sensors that can be aggravating for RVers. False or inaccurate monitor panel indications caused by tank sludge and debris stuck on the sensor probes are far too common.

    The easiest way to avoid black tank blockages is to use copious amounts of fresh water during each flushing of solid waste. Always be sure to cover the very bottom of each holding tank with fresh water after each evacuation. Do not store the RV for lengthy periods with contents still in the tank.

    A Happy Holding Tank… 

    Being proactive when it comes to your RV’s waste system will reap its rewards for you and also protect the environment. If anything, it will ease offensive smells! A happy holding tank is a healthy holding tank.

    And, remember, when working on your RV’s waste plumbing system, even when simply “dumping” the holding tanks, take safety precautions. Wear disposable gloves when handling sewer hoses and connections. And when using hand tools while working on these systems, be sure to clean and disinfect them after each use.

    FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tech tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Learn more at FMCA.com.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

  • Top RV Mistakes to Avoid for New RVers

    Top RV Mistakes to Avoid for New RVers

    The RV lifestyle is filled with fun and adventure, and those who are willing to take the plunge rarely look back. That being said, if you go into RVing without knowing what you’re doing, you may make some mistakes that you will wish you hadn’t. Fortunately, our friends at FMCA have been RV experts for nearly 60 years, and they are here to help you start your journey on a positive note. Get off to a good start by avoiding their top RV mistakes!

    Traveling too far in one day

    This is a mistake most RVers recognize. To discover your personal daily driving limit, you may need to have a few rough days where you overdo it and learn the hard way. A good rule of thumb is the “3 or 3 rule” —arrive at your destination by 3 pm, or drive 300 miles in one day, whichever happens first.

    Buying the first RV you look at

    This might seem obvious for some, but many people don’t know how customizable some RVs actually are and how many different RV floor plans exist. If you “sort of” like the model but you wish there were more kitchen space, or would prefer a larger bathroom, then speak up! If you’re willing to wait a little longer or travel outside your immediate shopping area, you can likely find the PERFECT model for how you plan to use your RV. If you still feel overwhelmed, check out a few RV Buying Tips.
    Check out the latest models on RV Trader.

    Packing too much

    Part of being an RVer is learning how to be resourceful. Packing too much is an easy mistake to make until you learn how to minimize your tools, equipment, and creature comforts. Efficient RVers become resourceful in how they cook, clean, and pack their clothing. For example, if you will never be cooking for more than two or four people, there is no need to bring along every pot, pan, and dish from your kitchen.
    The same goes for your clothes (depending on your laundry machine situation, this may be easier for you) and other camping equipment. Traveling with less is better on your fuel economy, easier to pack and unpack things, and the mental clarity of having less clutter will be very beneficial.

    Winging it without a checklist

    A well-crafted checklist can make your campsite setup or tear-down process run smoothly and consistently each time. This is handy for those of you who are moving around between campgrounds a lot or who camp infrequently and may forget steps in the process without a reminder. If you haven’t downloaded it yet, FMCA has an app that is available for iPhone and Android where you can download premade checklists or create your own customized checklists.

    Not seeking proper RV training

    Owning an RV is a learning process, but you don’t want to jump into it without any knowledge at all. You’ll want to start reading up on RVing ahead of making your purchase and hitting the road. There are hundreds of online forums and Facebook groups that you can join to discuss various important topics with other RVers. If you’re serious about improving your RV knowledge, check out the quizzes, lessons, and educational articles at FMCA University.

    Not planning an RV-friendly route

    If you’re new to RVing, you might not realize that there are certain routes that you simply cannot take due to size and height restrictions. There may be narrow roads, small tunnels, or low bridges along your route. If you aren’t expecting these limitations, you may end up spending multiple hours being rerouted to a safer alternative. There are special GPS devices and trip planning tools that allow you to program in your RV’s size and height so you can ensure that your route will be safe for you to navigate!

    Neglecting RV maintenance

    You should expect to have regular upkeep and maintenance expenses that come along with RV ownership. If you remember simple maintenance tasks such as checking tire pressure before driving, you can prevent larger, more costly issues from occurring and leaving your RV out of commission for days, weeks, or even months at a time.

    Forgetting to secure your belongings when driving down the road

    You will eventually develop a routine for this reality, but it is worth mentioning. Make sure that you place all loose items into drawers, bags, closets, or other secure locations since things tend to shift and move around during travel. This includes all of your toiletries and refrigerated items as well.

    Start RVing without an FMCA membership

    This is the biggest mistake any RVer can make: hitting the road without an FMCA membership! A membership to FMCA can save you hundreds of dollars on RV necessities like batteries, tires, and windshield replacement while connecting you to a plethora of educational resources to ensure your RV experience is easy and smooth.
  • FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

    FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

    Missed RV upkeep and repair items can become costly if you do not catch them in time.

    You have made a major investment in an RV. You take great pride in keeping it clean, waxed, and properly maintained. Have you completely read, understood, and followed the information and instructions in all of the manuals for your unit? Some coaches come with encyclopedia-size booklets, others with just a thin pamphlet. Either way, numerous items require regular attention, some of which you may never have heard of or thought about. I hope that this article will encourage you to look into them.

    Some RVers cite cost as a reason they haven’t precisely followed recommendations in the manuals. However, many businesses have found it is cheaper and safer to implement a planned preventive maintenance (PM) schedule for their equipment. Even if they trade or sell their equipment often, they know that an attached PM report increases the items’ resale value.

    Imagine you are out looking at two nearly identical RVs with the same mileage. One comes with documented PM records and costs more than the one without. Which one would you purchase? If you stop to think about it, the one without records may end up costing you more during its life. First, you have to spend money to bring it up to specs before any trips. Second, items that have not been maintained properly will wear out faster than normal, use more energy, and could be dangerous.

    More often than not, overlooked maintenance items are the leading contributor to the need for emergency road repairs. You can save time, money, frustration, and maybe your marriage just by following your manuals’ recommendations. Many RVs out there receive little or no care; is yours one of them? When they do break down, it may be just a tip of the iceberg of problems to come.

    An old saying from the horse and buggy days applies to the RV lifestyle: “Rode hard and put away wet.” This means subjecting something to extremely hard use and then doing nothing to care for it when finished. Our RVs can sit for several months unused, and then they are off to the races for a weekend getaway or a coast-to-coast run. After reaching the destination, we shut them down and ignore them until the next expedition. Because of a RV’s weight and aerodynamics, the motor, transmission, cooling system, and brakes could be considered as operating in a severe-duty service whenever used. This makes preventive maintenance more important than ever, so follow the manuals’ suggestions.

    Below is a list of items that are easy to overlook. It is a little long; however, these items deserve attention before they require an expensive solution. Most manufacturers recommend them as yearly checks. Please reference your manuals, the company’s website, or its service department for specific recommendations regarding your RV and its components and accessories.

    Frame/Driveline

     

    • Batteries: Far and away, the most common battery repairs technicians make are to resolve loose connections, especially on the ground/negative side and wires. Check all terminals and frame grounds for corrosion and tightness. Wash down battery areas with a water-and-baking soda solution or an approved cleaner. Check electrolyte levels; fill with distilled water if needed, usually just enough to cover the plates.
    • Brakes’ hydraulic systems – Use test strips to check the fluid level and its moisture content. Periodic flushing is required to maintain your safety, approximately every three years or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first. Fluid does break down and can attract moisture over time from the heat generated by braking. A noticeable change in efficiency and required pedal force will occur. More importantly, the calipers and the ABS systems’ control module could be damaged, causing a very expensive repair.
    • Air systems: Drain ping/storage tanks completely every month to remove moisture. Some units have a replaceable desiccant filter that is easy to overlook but is extremely vital to brakes and suspension.
    • Pads, calipers, rotors, or drums: Check for usable life left, cracking, or glaze and make sure they all operate properly.
    • Brake lines: Check for severe rust on metal lines. Watch out for cracks or weeping on flexible lines.
    • Grease/Lubrication: Climb underneath your coach and count every zerk fitting you can find. Look at all suspension components; steering linkage, including the connection to the steering wheel; driveshaft; universal joints; transmission; clutch shafts; and tag axle. Keep this number (I have counted as many as 43) in your notes with the owners manuals. After a lube, oil, and filter service is performed, ask how many grease zerks they serviced. If it does not match your number, ask why. Then check one that is hard to find for proof of new grease! You would be amazed at how many dry ones I encounter. Some motors have grease zerks on the cooling fan assembly. Do not forget about sliders, rollers, or bearings on racks (generator, cargo, steps, propane tanks, batteries, etc.).
    • Hydraulic Slideouts And Leveling: Fill the oil level with the proper type oil and look for leaks.
    • Rear End/Differential: Refer to the coach’s chassis maintenance schedule; however, if a schedule is not available, change the fluid every 100,000 miles. Check the vent tube for blockage. Check the universal joints when greasing and replace if any looseness is detected.
    • Steering: Check fluid; change when suggested (usually three to five years).
    • Suspension: Springs, control arms, and sway bars all have bushings that can wear out. Shocks that have oil stains on them or more than 50,000 miles need to be replaced.
    • Tag Axle: Check wheel bearings for adjustment and lubrication.
    • Tires: Look for dry rot, bulges, cracking, and correct pressure. Stay away from tire dressings that make them shiny, as they tend to have silicone or petroleum-based ingredients that can accelerate tire deterioration. It’s probably best to simply wash the tires with soap and water, and rinse them thoroughly afterward.
    • Transmission: Check the fluid and filter; refer to the coach’s chassis maintenance schedule. If a schedule is not available, change at 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

    Electrical

     

    • Generator: Wash with a cleaner such as Mean Green and low-pressure water; air dry before using. Change air and fuel filters; some models have filters or screens on cooling air/compartment inlets. Gasoline types should be run once every five to six weeks under medium load, have their fuel system drained, or have Sta-Bil added to the fuel (make sure it’s in the carburetor before shutting down the gen set). Run diesel generators at least every two to three months. Warm them up, operate under a load for 10 to 15 minutes, and cool down for another three to five minutes before shutting off. This keeps the fuel fresh, lubricates the parts, and keeps the generator ready for emergencies.
    • Lights: Check all interior and exterior lights on all vehicles (towable included).
    • Shore Power Cord: Clean and wipe down with silicone spray or a product such as 303 Aerospace Protectant (do not use anything slick on coaches equipped with a cord reel).

    Engine And Compartment

     

    • Lube, Oil, And Filter: This should be a no-brainer, so remember the time intervals also; oil is your engine’s lifeblood. Follow change intervals to a tee. Stay with quality name-brand oil and filters, especially on diesel engines when new. Many diesel motors require break-in valve and injector adjustments. According to Caterpillar, Cummins, and Detroit Diesel, this first adjustment is very critical.
    • Air Conditioner: Check pressure and operation of the dash air conditioner before the season.
    • Hoses: Look for rub marks, bulges, cracks, or weeping. Secure hose clamps.
    • Serpentine/Fan Belts: Check for cracking or frayed cords. They should be changed every five to eight years/50,000 to 125,000 miles.
    • Engine Cooling/Radiators – Antifreeze: Fill and have the pH level checked. Change every three to five years/65,000 to 100,000 miles. Use only the antifreeze approved for your engine; there are differences. Diesel owners: It is vital to check the pH level and appropriate buffers.
    • Fins/fan: Carefully check, clean, and straighten cooling fins. If the fan’s blades are bent or damaged, replace the fan with a new one.
    • Filters: They are installed in places you never thought of: air, fuel, water separator, cabin, antifreeze, radiator pre-filters/screens, air compressor, crankcase.

    Exterior

    • Air Conditioner: Remove the cover of the roof air conditioner; check for mud dauber nests; clean the fins and fans of leaves, sticks, moss, and nests. You will save energy and help the unit last longer.
    • Seams: Check all seams for faulty caulk, especially the roof around antenna mounts, skylights, ladder, and vents.
    • Furnace: Remove the cover and clean. Replace filters if applicable (e.g., Aqua-Hot). Look out for mice and their nests.
    • Horns: Do they work?
    • Refrigerator Covers: Remove the outer cover and vacuum clean. Check for spiders, as they love this area. Find the black drain tube, check for obstructions, and route to drain outside of the cover.
    • Roof Maintenance: Clean, look for, and repair defects. Apply proper protection.
    • Slideout Seals: Clean and lubricate every six to 12 months.
    • Storage And Entrance Doors: Clean and lubricate seals, lifting mechanism, latches, and hinges.
    • Water Heater: Remove the bottom plug and drain the heater. Replace the anode rod. Clean the propane-heating tube. Remove the plug-in 12-volt connector and reconnect (cleans contacts).
    • Windshield Wipers: Check and replace. Better to do this now before you’re caught in a big rainstorm. Refill the washer fluid reservoir.

    Interior

    • Air Conditioner: Clean or replace filters monthly. Carefully clean/vacuum cooling fins.
    • Detectors: Change batteries in smoke, carbon monoxide, and LP-gas detectors.
    • Furnace: Remove the covers and vacuum the area clean.
    • Water Systems: Check the under-counter and ice-maker filters and replace if necessary.
    • Windshield: Clean the inside as well as the outside. Remember how hard it was to see through when driving into the sun on your last trip?

    Even though this list may appear overwhelming, the items are not all due at once. Mileage, hours, and/or age will dictate when attention is required throughout the year and life cycle of your RV.

    Consult this checklist when searching for a used RV. Finding one with documented PM schedules included generally indicates the entire rig was properly maintained. If you purchase one with a questionable service record, either you’ll become handy at repairs or spend a lot of money for someone who is.

    If purchasing an older RV with low mileage, or if you let yours sit unused for extended periods, think about this: mechanical items are designed for use on a regular basis. Using them as they were intended to be used generally makes them last longer, with fewer problems, than those you don’t use regularly.

    Think about our own bodies. When we exercise regularly, we feel better, move around easier, are more alert, and are less prone to injuries and arthritis. Usually we spend less on health care as a result. If we stop exercising, we gain weight, slow down, and acquire more aches and pains; medical expenses and time spent at the doctor rises dramatically. The same thing happens with your RV. This can become a vicious cycle.

    Stop exercising your RV and the seals in the motor, rear, and steering dry out and shrink because oil drains off them. Oil drains off motor parts, causing rust and stuck valves. Additives in the oil break down even with age, allowing suspended acids and damaging particles to settle on critical parts. Tires will dry rot and crack, because they depend upon movement to excrete protective agents to block this. Transmission internals can rust and clutch packs go dry. Brakes can rust or seize up, lock up a wheel, or generate enough heat from dragging to burn out a wheel bearing. Brake, fuel, and air lines can rust through from condensation in the storage area. Critters and insects love to make nests in stationary RVs.

    You’ve probably heard some RVers say, “Hey, I start mine and let it idle once a month.” Just starting the motor and letting it idle can do more damage than good, but that’s for another time and article.

  • How to Boondock: Part I

    How to Boondock: Part I

    For many RVers, boondocking is an enjoyable way to camp. Boondocking refers to free camping without the use of hookups and can be done in a wide variety of places, including public lands, parking lots, membership club locations, casinos, rest stops, and more. This style of camping is often more scenic, more private, more affordable, and, for some, more fun.However, those who are accustomed to camping with hookups to water, electric, and sewer may be unsure of how to dry camp. If you want to try boondocking but feel overwhelmed by the idea of dry camping, then you have come to the right place. Here, we have highlighted all the tried-and-true methods of camping without hookups, as well as, all the applicable tools that can make your experience smoother.

    Water

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    In most campgrounds, RVers can expect to be connected to water hookups at all times. This means that water is continuously flowing into your RV and the user essentially has unlimited access to water when connected. When boondocking wherever your RV takes you, you forfeit access to continuous fresh water. You will have to exclusively live off of the potable water in your freshwater holding tank.

    • Start by determining the size of your RV’s freshwater holding tank. The average American household uses 300 gallons of water daily, so learning to live off of a small holding tank is not always easy. In bigger rigs, the tank size is typically between sixty and ninety gallons, although some rigs are made with tanks up to 150 gallons in size. This information can typically be found in your owner’s manual or sometimes even near the fill-up port.

    • After determining your tank size, the easiest thing to do is practice limiting water consumption. Start by using a trickle of water for washing your hands and brushing your teeth, and turn the faucet off in between lathering and rinsing. Do the same for dishwashing, and turn the water off in between use while showering. This will stretch your water-saving capabilities. Start small with shorter trips of two or three days, and work your way up to longer stints. The most experienced boondockers can often last up to fourteen days!

    • The final hurdle for water usage while boondocking is filling your tank. If you are traveling from your home to your boondocking site, you can likely fill your tank before leaving your house. If you are traveling from a campground to a boondocking site, you can also fill before setting off. However, if you are traveling from one boondocking location to another, or simply do not want to travel with the weight of a full water tank, you will need to know where you can safely fill your tank. Keep in mind that you should only ever fill your freshwater holding tank with potable water. Even if you do not drink water from the faucets, you will still be using it to brush your teeth, wash your dishes, and in some cases, provide water for your pets.

    Knowing where to fill up your tank is key. Many gas stations and travel centers have areas for tank filling. Some may charge a small fee, but most are free. If you cannot find a travel center at which to fill up, you can often find stations at national park and state park campgrounds. Even if you are just passing through, many of these locations will allow you to fill with park entrance or for a nominal fee. If none of these options are panning out, you can almost always call a local campground to fill your tank. These will almost always charge a small fee, but it will still be less than a night’s stay and will save you money for whatever length of time you plan to boondock. Freshwater is one of the biggest challenges while boondocking, so once you have mastered this, you will be a pro.

    Power

    The next biggest boondocking hurdle is supplying your own power. At a campground, your RV connects to shore power, which allows you to power your entire RV, charge devices, watch TV, run your air conditioners, etc. Without shore power access, you will need to learn to generate your own power. There are also a number of upgrades you can add to make boondocking much easier.

    No matter what kind of set-up you choose to power your RV while boondocking, you will need to keep in mind the importance of energy conservation. None of these options will grant you an unlimited power supply, and keeping your usage low will be important. You will likely be unable to run air conditioners or high-energy kitchen appliances, but the right set-up will likely allow you to charge electrical devices, such phones and laptops, run your water pump for water usage, and turn on lights in the evening. Consider switching your lightbulbs to low-energy bulbs or installing additional DC lights for more lighting while off grid. Once you have come up with a plan for saving energy, it is time to decide which power option is best for you.

    Start by assessing your current house batteries. These are the batteries that store energy to power the RV “house” (anything non-mechanical) when you are not plugged in. Some RVs come equipped with decent batteries that can store a lot of energy, but many RVs have only simple or weak batteries. If you plan to do plenty of boondocking, you may consider upgrading your batteries to gel, lead acid, or even lithium.

    Once you know what type of batteries you are working with, you will want to determine how long these batteries can power your rig when not connected to power. This establishes how long you can go between charging the batteries. Some folks only boondock for one or two days at a time. If your batteries can hold their charge for a couple of days, and you only plan to boondock in short bursts, you may not need an additional source of power to charge your batteries.

    If you plan to boondock frequently or for longer periods of time, you need to select a method for charging your house batteries when they are low. The two most common charging sources RVers use are a generator or solar power. Many motorhomes, especially class As, come equipped with an on-board generator, making boondocking quite simple right off the bat. However, in the case of many towables and smaller motorhomes, your RV may not come with a generator installed. Luckily, purchasing one and setting it up is fairly simple. There are many generators on the market, each with different abilities and specs. Most run on gasoline, and ones that are already installed in a motorhome are fed directly from the fuel that powers your RV. Be sure to do proper research before selecting one and setting it up to power your rig. Keep in mind that running the generator will charge your batteries and all the electrical sockets, but unless you have an inverter, only DC powered devices (such as lights) can be used when the generator is not running. It’s also important to remember that generators require regular maintenance, such as oil changes and spark plug replacements.

    A generator is not the only option for charging your house batteries. A full solar panel set-up can also do the job. While solar may require a pricey up-front cost, it is a great long-term investment for those who plan to boondock and dry camp often. Solar kits can be purchased through a variety of online retailers, and these all come with different components and wattages. It’s important to do plenty of research to not only determine the correct wattage for your need, but to also ensure you’re getting the best quality items at a fair price. In addition, have your solar system installed by a professional to ensure everything is set up correctly.

    Sewer

    The final consideration for hookups (or lack thereof) while boondocking is your sewer system. Your sewer system consists of both your black and gray holding tanks. The black tank holds waste exclusively from your toilet. The gray tank holds waste water, which includes water from washing dishes, showers, washing your hands, brushing your teeth, etc. At full hookup campgrounds, campers typically run a hose to their sewer to empty their tanks as needed. When boondocking, this option for emptying tanks is not available. It is never okay to dump your waste tanks anywhere other than an official dumping station. For this reason, you will need to adhere to some tips and guidelines while boondocking.

    First, you will need to determine the size of your gray and black tanks. Your gray tank will likely be a bit smaller than your freshwater tank, and your black tank will be smaller than both of them. Any tips for conserving freshwater usage can also be applied to saving gray water tank space. Water that is not used equates to additional space in your gray tank.

    There really isn’t a method for conserving black tank space, and the amount of time it takes you to fill the black tank depends on how many people you are traveling with. Practicing boondocking will allow you to gain an idea of how long it takes you to fill your black tank, giving you insight into generally how long you can remain unplugged. You can also keep an eye on the levels of your tanks using the tank meter. It is often found in the control center and lets you know how full your tanks are at any given time. Once your black tank is full, you should not continue to use it, as this could lead to waste water backing up into your sinks and shower if it has nowhere else to go.

    Finally, as mentioned, you will need to determine where to empty your tanks after boondocking. If you are headed to a campground, you can easily empty your tanks there. However, if you are headed home or towards another boondocking location, you will need to dump your tanks before you arrive. Just like with water refilling stations, there are many travel centers and gas stations that have dump stations for RVers. There is almost always a small charge to use these, and you must come equipped with your own sewer hose. If you cannot find a travel center with a dump station, you can use one at a private, state park, or national park campground. Be sure to call ahead and double-check they will allow you to use their dump station, and plan to pay a small fee for the service. If you are still having trouble finding a dump station, consider using the Sanidumps app. It allows users to locate dump stations in their general vicinity or along a specific route.

    Boondocking is an excellent way to camp in your RV, and knowing how to dry camp is key for anyone wanting to boondock. Follow these basic tips if you plan to forgo hookups. Stay tuned for our next boondocking guide, which will teach you how to obtain internet, dispose of trash, and do laundry when you are not at a campground.

    Do you enjoy boondocking? How do you handle water, sewer, and electricity when you are off grid? Feel free to share in the comments below!

  • Vintage Trailer & RV Restoration Hazards

    Vintage Trailer & RV Restoration Hazards

    Traveling in an RV or with a travel trailer can be a great experience. It’s a great way to cover a lot of ground and have a comfortable place to stay after hiking, getting out on the lake, or just enjoying the serenity of your campsite.

    Brand new RVs and travel trailers can cost a fortune, and can depreciate quickly. This is why many travel and camping enthusiasts are instead restoring old RVs and camper trailers to enjoy their ventures. Not only do vintage RVs and travel trailers often cost a fraction of the price, they’re also packed with charm and style. In addition, restoring old campers is an excellent way to customize it with an interior of your choice. Before you get started on your restoration, though, there are some hazards to consider.

    Tires, Bearings, Brakes, and Driveline

    When buying an older RV or camper trailer you should always bring someone along who can inspect the mechanical components. For RVs, this is especially important since you’re buying a vehicle, not just a camper. You should always inspect the frame, tires, axles, and bearings. It’s pertinent to make sure the tires and bearings are in good shape before moving the trailer or RV very far.

    Tires & Bearings

    If grease seals have failed, bearings can overheat in a matter of minutes, causing your tires to stop rotating. This shouldn’t need an explanation, but once a tire wears unevenly they must be changed. Driving on a worn tire could lead to a blowout. If they’ve sat in the same place for an extended period of time, tires can easily succumb to dry rot creating unsafe driving conditions that could be catastrophic at highway speeds.

    Brakes & Driveline

    The brakes and driveline should be inspected prior to purchase. For RVs, U-joints should be inspected and replaced if any play is found. U-joint failure can compromise the driveshaft and leave you stranded. If brakes are worn or not in working order, a heavy RV can be very dangerous to drive. Travel trailers weighing more than 3500 lbs are often equipped with drum brakes that should be inspected as well. Brake pads and linings were often made with asbestos, and precautions should be taken if you plan to perform the work yourself. Transmission gaskets and clutch plates were made with asbestos as well. If your RV requires a new clutch or brakes, it may be best to leave it to a professional if the RV or trailer was made before the 1980s.

    Many automotive parts and building materials utilized asbestos before the partial ban in 1987 because it was inexpensive, heat resistant, and strong. When airborne, asbestos containing dust can become trapped in the linings of the lungs, causing pleural mesothelioma. Too often, the presence of asbestos in older vehicles is overlooked before undergoing a restoration process. Exposure to asbestos should not be taken lightly as a staggering 12,000-15,000 people die from asbestos-related diseases each year in the United States.

    Interior Restoration

    The interior restoration of vintage travel trailers and RVs is the most exciting part of bringing an old camper back to life. Redoing the interior allows you to customize the space any way you’d like and it also gives you the opportunity to check for water damage and leaks as well as install better insulation. This is also a good time to inspect the electrical system and components, propane hoses, and plumbing. Ensuring these items are in usable condition and updating insulation for a higher R-value will make your camping experience more comfortable and enjoyable.

    The Demolition

    Before tearing out the old interior of your vintage RV or camper trailer, you should be aware that some of these parts could contain asbestos. Commonly used in vinyl tile and adhesives to add strength, these items should be removed with caution. If possible, you can leave vinyl tile in place and go over top of the material with your new flooring or backsplash. However, on some campers, the subfloor itself may need to be replaced or you may want to redo the insulation underneath.

    If you do remove the vinyl tile and its adhesive, you should wear a respirator that fits well, a dust mask from the hardware store won’t protect you against exposure. You should also wear a Tyvek suit or clothing that can be hosed down or discarded with the tiling. Remove the clothing immediately after leaving the demo area. Don’t go inside before thoroughly washing your hands and showering. There are many resources available on how to safely remove asbestos, but if you don’t have the capabilities to do so, you may want to hire a professional for the demolition.

    Old insulation could also pose a threat, as loose-fill insulation of times past often contained asbestos. Most of the time, however, travel trailers and RVs used a batt style insulation instead of loose-fill. You should still proceed cautiously and inspect the insulation for asbestos contamination. If you’re not sure how to identify asbestos, there are many abatement professionals that will test materials that have the potential of containing asbestos.

    Inspecting Old Components

    Now that you’ve demoed the walls, floor, and safely removed old insulation, it’s imperative that you inspect all electrical lines, gas hoses, and plumbing. If you’re not familiar with what these components should look like, this is another opportunity to hire a professional. Many DIY’s don’t want to pay the professional price, but doing so for electrical, plumbing, and gas can save you countless hours, and eliminate the potential for serious failures down the road.

    If propane or plumbing lines have become dry rotted or have been tampered with by animals while sitting, a tiny leak could become disastrous. Damaged plumbing lines could ruin all the hard work you put into redoing the interior, especially if that leak is in a line for grey or black water. All plumbing hoses and holding tanks should be thoroughly inspected and replaced if damaged. Often, a do-it-yourselfer can undertake minor plumbing. Propane repairs, however, should be performed by a professional, as a propane leak can lead to a buildup of gas in your camper. Not only can propane cause serious harm to the body if inhaled, it can also lead to an explosion. A propane leak detector should be installed as low as possible, as propane is heavier than air.

    Electrical wiring and components should also be inspected. Electrical faults are one of the main causes of fires in camper trailers and RVs. Electrical wiring can become dry and brittle with age, causing the wire insulation to crack—exposing bare metal. Should two bare wires come into contact with one another, a spark can occur and potentially ignite a fire. Electrical systems should be inspected and installed by a professional as well. This can save you wasted time and provide peace of mind that you don’t have an unknown fire hazard.

     

    Restoring a vintage camper trailer or RV can be rewarding in many ways. It will certainly bring years of enjoyment and adventure. It can also help you to build or hone in skills that you’ll find useful for many other projects. With all the benefits it can provide, you should never take shortcuts or compromise your safety in the process. As eager as you’ll be to get out on the open road, it’s vital to tackle every step with diligence and thorough knowledge so that you won’t be left stranded, injured, or unhealthy along your journey.

    Ready to find a vintage RV of your own? Start your search on RV Trader today.