Category: RV Advice

If you’ve spent any time RVing, you’ve probably discovered that not all parts of the adventure are scenic sunsets and s’mores by the campfire. One unavoidable task that every RVer has to face is emptying the black tank. And necessity of that task pushes forward the uncomfortable question: Who is going to empty the black tank? In my marriage, like many other RV families we’ve met on the road, this fun assignment is taken over by one person. And that person is me. I have offered to be the bearer of black news in my marriage, and it gives me a few points every time. Happy poopsy-free wife, happy life.

While it may not be the highlight of your trip, mastering this job is essential to keeping your home on wheels running smoothly. (And trust us, it’s a whole lot easier with the right preparation and tools.) With a little know-how, you’ll soon have this process down to a science, leaving more time for the parts of RV life you love.

Ready to dive in? Let’s get started!

Step 1: Gather the Right Tools (They Make All the Difference)

When it comes to emptying your black tank, preparation is key. Having the right tools on hand not only makes the process more efficient but also keeps things clean and—most importantly—minimizes unpleasant surprises. Here’s a checklist of what you’ll need:

• Sewer Hose and Fittings. A durable, flexible sewer hose, often affectionately called the “stinky slinky,” ensures a secure connection between your RV and the dump station.
• Disposable Gloves. These are non-negotiable. Protect your hands with a thick, disposable pair for each dump session.
• Clear Hose Extension.While it’s not the prettiest part of the process, a clear extension lets you see when the tank is completely flushed.
• Sewer Hose Support. Use a support to create a smooth slope for the hose, helping gravity do the work and preventing any unpleasant backups.

Pro Tip: Store all sewer-related tools in a separate, labeled bin. This ensures they stay away from other camping gear, preventing contamination and making cleanup quick and easy.

Step 2: Position Your RV for Success (Double-Checking Matters)

Whether you’re at a dump station or a full-hookup campsite, how you position your RV makes a difference. You’ll want to park close enough that your sewer hose can reach the dump port comfortably without stretching. Take a few extra moments to ensure the ground is level and that the sewer connection is secure.

When setting up, always double-check that you’ve attached the hose to the correct outlet. It sounds obvious, but on some rigs, the gray and black tank handles look identical.  And you don’t want any mishaps — trust us on this one!

Pro Tip: Always empty the black tank first before opening the gray tank valve. This way, the gray water helps flush out the hose, leaving it cleaner and reducing odors.

Step 3: Hook Up and Empty the Black Tank (Slow and Steady Wins the Race)

Now comes the main event. Start by putting on your gloves and connecting your sewer hose to the RV’s black tank outlet. Secure the other end at the dump station, and make sure everything is locked tight to avoid leaks. Slowly open the black tank valve—don’t rush it. Let the contents drain completely, and give it a few extra moments to ensure everything flows out.

If your RV has a built-in black tank flush, connect a dedicated hose to the flush inlet. Running fresh water through the tank helps clear out any stubborn waste or toilet paper that might linger. No built-in flush? No problem—a portable rinse wand or backflow connector like this will do the trick just fine.

Pro Tip: Make sure that your black tank valve is closed and add a little extra water from your RV toilet foot-flush – I tend to add just a few seconds – so that what is inevitably left over in the tank doesn’t completely dry and get worse.

Step 4: Flush the Gray Tank and Wrap It Up (You’ve Done the Dirty Work)

Once the black tank is empty and closed, it’s time to open the gray tank valve. The soapy water from your sinks and shower will flush out any residue in the sewer hose, leaving it cleaner and fresher. This step also makes disconnecting the hose far less messy.

After the tanks are empty, give your sewer hose a quick rinse — many dump stations have a non-potable water spigot for this purpose. Once everything is clean, disconnect the hose, cap the outlets, and store everything neatly in your designated bin.

Pro Tip: Perform one final dump and rinse at the end of each trip if possible. This ensures your tanks stay clean during storage and prevents buildup that could lead to clogs or odors later on.

Step 5: Use Tank Treatments to Keep Things Fresh (Say Goodbye to Odors)

To keep your black tank smelling fresh and functioning properly, it’s a good idea to use an RV-specific tank treatment. These treatments help break down waste and prevent odors from becoming an issue, especially during warmer months. Drop-in pods are a popular option because they’re easy to use—just toss one into the toilet, and you’re good to go.

If you’re staying at a full-hookup campsite, resist the urge to leave the black tank valve open all the time. Keeping the valve closed allows the tank to fill, which helps waste break down more effectively and prevents unpleasant buildup known as the “pyramid of doom.”

Pro Tip: Always keep your drinking water hose and black tank rinse hose separate — cross-contamination is the last thing you want on an RV trip!

Avoiding Common Mistakes (Because We’ve All Been There)

1. Forgetting Gloves. Even if you think you’re quick, wear them. You’ll thank yourself later.
2. Skipping the Tank Rinse. It only takes a few extra minutes and will save you headaches in the long run.
3. Leaving the Black Tank Valve Open at All Times. This can lead to waste buildup, causing clogs and foul odors.
4. Not Checking Connections. A loose fitting can turn into a big mess fast—double-check everything before opening valves.

Wrap-Up: Embrace the Process and Enjoy the Journey

Emptying the black tank may not be the highlight of your RV trip, but it’s a necessary part of the lifestyle. Once you’ve mastered the process, it becomes just another routine task, like setting up camp or cooking dinner outdoors. Plus, knowing you have clean tanks means less stress and more time to focus on the adventures that lie ahead. With the right tools, a little patience, and some practice, you’ll be able to handle this job with confidence. And, who knows? You might even become the go-to tank expert in your campground! (If that’s something you actually like).

Happy RVing, and may your tanks always flow smoothly! Also, if you’d like a little video tutorial walking you through the process step by step, watch this.

Colder weather is already approaching. (And in many cases it’s already here. That means it’s time to start thinking about winterizing your RV to protect it from freezing temperatures. One of the most critical tasks involved in preparing your RV for winter’s onslaught is using RV antifreeze to keep water from freezing in the pipes and bursting them.

In this guide, we’ll delve into everything you need to know  Starting with what it is (and is not), we’ll share when, why, and how you should use it to protect your RV’s plumbing system this winter. 

What RV Antifreeze Is — and What It Isn’t

You’ve probably seen jugs of pink stuff in the RV maintenance section of  your local RV parts or hardware store. Although RV antifreeze is usually found alongside automotive antifreeze, always remember: Even aside from it’s usual pink color, it’s very different from automotive antifreeze. RV antifreeze is formulated with propylene glycol and is made to be nontoxic. Automotive antifreeze, on the other hand, is very toxic because it’s made with ethylene glycol. That’s because the two have very different purposes. And the differences between RV and automotive antifreeze don’t end with toxicity.

Let’s be clear: RV and automotive antifreeze aren’t interchangeable at all. RV antifreeze was formulated specifically for use in plastic RV plumbing components. It even acts as a lubricant for the RV toilet seal. But’s not for use  in your car, because propylene glycol just doesn’t have the necessary properties to allow it to regulate engine temperature. 

Conversely, automobile antifreeze is specially formulated to help regulate the temperature of vehicle engines no matter what the ambient temperature is. And even more ephartically, you would never want to use automotive antifreeze in RV plumbing because it’s highly toxic. And that’s not all. Automotive antifreeze is also corrosive to plastic and rubber. That means instead of protecting RV plumbing, automotive antifreeze destroys it. 

RV Antifreeze Is Not Safe for Consumption

Even though RV antifreeze is technically nontoxic, you should avoid consuming it. Even though propylene glycol is used in minute amounts in processed foods, RV antifreeze is not considered safe for consumption. At least not beyond the trace amounts you ingest when you use it as intended. That being said, after you drain all the antifreeze out of your pipes, the freshwater coming out of  your RV faucets will be safe to drink. 

Why It’s Necessary for Winterization

Water is one of very few substances that expands as it freezes. That means water that freezes in your RV pipes also expands as it transforms into a solid. This expansion is enough to burst pipes and fittings, creating leaky plumbing and water damage as well as moisture related problems like mold.  

Water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Contrastingly, RV antifreeze doesn’t freeze until the ambient temperature is a very chilly  negative 50 degrees Fahrenheit and doesn’t expand when it finally freezes. Unlike water, instead of expanding into an RV pipe destroying solid form, RV-specific antifreeze freezes into a semi-liquid slush that’s harmless to plumbing. You can probably see why it makes sense to get all the water out of your RV plumbing system and replace it with the pink stuff.  

What About Environmental Concerns?

As you’re probably aware, automotive antifreeze has multiple and significant negative environmental impacts. First of all, it’s highly toxic to every living organism, including the bacteria in sewage systems. Automotive antifreeze is so bad for the environment that it’s considered a hazardous material. That being the case, most communities have laws regarding how to dispose of automotive antifreeze.

On the other hand, RV antifreeze is considered non-toxic and breaks down quickly when introduced to a sewage system or water supply. That means when you flush it out of your RV plumbing when spring rolls around, it can go down the drain at the dump station. 

How Much Do You Need for RV Winterization?

When it comes to RV antifreeze, most RVs don’t need a lot. Many RVs only require one or two gallons of RV antifreeze  to protect the entire plumbing system. But it really depends on the size of your rig. So, if you have a larger RV with multiple bathrooms you may need as much as five gallons.

Where to Buy This Magical Stuff

RV antifreeze is easy to find. It’s readily available from RV supply stores, automotive stores, and hardware stores as well as from online retailers. Here’s a brief list of some of the places where you’ll find RV antifreeze: Amazon, Tractor Supply, Walmart, and Home Depot.

How To Use It to Winterize Your RV

It’s essential to winterize your RV when it will be in storage for the winter months or only used occasionally during that time. Winterizing your plumbing system means draining out all the water and replacing it with RV antifreeze.  

Prepping Your Plumbing System

1. Disconnect from city water and make sure the hot water tank has been turned off overnight.
2. Empty the majority of water from the plumbing system. With the pump on, turn a faucet on and pump all the water from the freshwater tank and most of the water from the plumbing system.  Flush the toilet too. Turn the pump off.
3. Empty the black tank and gray tank. 
4. Drain the outside shower hose.
5. Open the low point drains beneath the RV.
6. Drain the hot water tank by opening the pressure relief valve and remove the drain plug or anode rod. 
7. Open the drain valve under the freshwater tank to drain all the water from it. 
8. Optional step: Connect an air compressor to the city water connection and blow any remaining water out. While this is preferable, it’s not absolutely necessary.
9. Close  all the valves
10. Find the bypass valves for the water heater and close it to prevent antifreeze from entering the water heater. There will be an intake valve and an outlet valve-both should be closed.

Applying RV Antifreeze

1. Locate the water pump intake and ensure that it has an antifreeze syphon hose connected. Many RVs have one installed, but if yours doesn’t simply replace the freshwater line with a siphon hose.
2. Open the siphon hose valve and close the valve that allows water to flow from the freshwater tank.
3. Insert the siphon hose into a bottle of RV antifreeze.
4. Turn the pump on.
5. Open the cold water at the kitchen faucet and close it after pink fluid comes out. Now open the hot water and wait until pink antifreeze comes out before closing it. Repeat these steps with each faucet in the RV, including the indoor and outdoor shower. 
6. Flush the toilet until pink antifreeze runs into the bowl. Leave antifreeze in the bowl to help condition the seal at the bottom of the bowl.
7. Turn the pump off.
8. Pour a little antifreeze down each drain in the RV to prevent the the P trap from freezing.
9. Drain the pump by finding two hoses located near it underneath the RV and opening them. Leave them open until you see RV antifreeze draining from them.
10. Dump any leftover antifreeze into the toilet, as well as the sink and shower drains.

Final Thoughts on the Pink Stuff

RV antifreeze is crucial for protecting your RV’s plumbing system from freezing while your RV is in storage over winter.  RV winterization is easy and can often be done in under 30 minutes, even on a large RV. If you really want to go the extra mile with RV winterization, you’ll want to blow every last bit of water out of your plumbing with an air compressor before pumping RV antifreeze into it. In spring, winterization is as easy as connecting to city water and turning on the faucets until no pink comes out.

Cha-ching. Cha-ching. That mental or literal register sound can be your RV renovation nightmare. It’s the calling card for your archnemesis — the blown-up budget! You may picture yourself cruising down the highway in a decked-out home on wheels, living the RV or van life dream of embarking on epic road trips. However, between the initial plan and the final product, there are plenty of budget traps that could turn your renovation into a financial blackhole. What starts as a “simple refresh” can snowball into surprise expenses, hidden damages, and unexpected splurges. That is, unless you avoid some costly — and common — RV renovation mistakes.

If you detour away from these pitfalls, renovating an RV can be an exciting and rewarding project. This blog will walk you through five common ways renovators blow their budget — and how to avoid them —s o you can create the RV of your dreams without draining your savings. Let’s get started!

1. Underestimating Structural Repairs

A fresh coat of paint or some new flooring might be what you had in mind, but things can quickly change once you start peeling back the layers of your RV. Structural issues —such as water damage, rotten subfloors, or cracked walls—are some of the most common hidden problems. They often catch renovators off guard. These repairs are not just inconvenient. Thet can also be costly. Ignoring or cutting corners on these types of repairs can lead to further damage, making it even more expensive in the long run.

Pro Tip: Before diving into your renovation, we can’t recommend having your RV inspected by a professional enough. (Especially if you suspect there might be hidden damage.) The cost may set you back a few hundred greenbacks, but it may save you thousands. If hiring an inspector isn’t feasible, do a thorough DIY inspection. Checking around windows. Examine plumbing connections. Assess roof seams for water damage. Addressing these issues upfront will help you avoid costly surprises during the project.

2. Falling in Love with High-End Upgrades

Luxury sure is tempting. And with endless inspiration from social media and Pinterest, it’s easy to find yourself wanting the finest fixtures, sleek appliances, or custom cabinetry. The problem is that these high-end upgrades come at a premium. And the price tag adds up quickly. Plus, some luxury options are better-suited for a home rather than an RV, (Meaning they could break or wear out faster on the road.)

Pro Tip: Pick two or three statement upgrades to splurge on that will have the most impact. Think flooring, countertops, or an upgraded mattress (an upgraded mattress is always a must for us). Balance the rest with budget-friendly options like peel-and-stick backsplash tiles or thrifted furniture. Remember, the goal is functionality and style, but not at the expense of practicality for life on the move.

3. Ignoring RV-Specific Products

Many renovators assume they can use regular household products in their RV, only to find out too late that certain materials don’t work well on the road. (If you’ve done this, don’t feel bad. It’s one of the most common RV renovation mistakes.) Standard home flooring might warp under varying temperatures, and heavy countertops or furniture will weigh down your RV, reducing fuel efficiency. Worse, incompatible materials can lead to costly repairs down the road if they break during travel.

Pro Tip: Use products designed for RV life. Lightweight vinyl flooring, collapsible furniture, and RV-specific appliances are all excellent investments. These products are built to handle vibrations, movements, and environmental challenges unique to RV travel. Research your options carefully. (YouTube renovation videos are a great place to start.)

4. Skipping a Detailed Budget Plan

Without a solid budget, costs can spiral out of control. Many renovators start with a vague idea of how much they want to spend, only to find themselves overwhelmed by hidden expenses. Every additional purchase — whether it’s an upgraded faucet or unexpected plumbing repair — pushes you further off-track. Without a clear plan, it’s easy to lose sight of your financial goals and end up spending way more than anticipated.

Pro Tip: Break your budget down into specific categories such as flooring, furniture, appliances, and labor. Assign a spending limit to each category and build a 10 to 20 percent buffer into your overall budget for unexpected costs. Keep a running tally of expenses as you go to make sure you’re staying on track.

5. Overlooking the Time Factor

Renovations don’t just cost money — they cost time, too. Every day spent renovating means time off the road, which can be frustrating if your RV is your full-time home or part of a rental income stream. Additionally, longer projects often lead to more expenses, whether it’s a few extra hardware store runs or paying for additional labor. Renovations that drag on can also sap your enthusiasm, tempting you to make costly decisions just to wrap things up faster.

Pro Tip: Set realistic timelines for each stage of the renovation. Prioritize must-do upgrades first—like repairing leaks or updating appliances—and save non-essential projects for later. Remember, the faster you get back on the road, the less likely you are to blow your budget with unnecessary extras.

Bonus Tips: How to Avoid RV Renovation Mistakes

• Start Small. If it’s your first RV renovation, start with small projects to learn the ropes before diving into a complete overhaul.
• DIY When Possible. Labor costs add up quickly, so handle smaller tasks yourself—like painting or installing new curtains—to save money.
• Shop Secondhand. Facebook Marketplace, thrift stores, and RV forums can be gold mines for budget-friendly furniture and décor.
• Get Creative. Look for multipurpose furniture that can save space, like convertible sofas or beds with built-in storage.
• Stick to the Plan. Avoid scope creep by focusing on your must-haves. It’s easy to get carried away with extra projects once you start, so remind yourself of your original goals.

Final Thoughts: Stay on Track and Enjoy the Journey

Renovating your RV is an exciting opportunity to personalize your space, but it’s easy to get carried away and blow your budget. By planning ahead, setting clear priorities, and staying mindful of your expenses, you can create a beautiful and functional RV without breaking the bank.

Just like a road trip, RV renovation is a journey — there will be bumps along the way, but the reward is well worth it. Whether you’re transforming your RV into a cozy getaway or prepping it for a new adventure, keeping your budget in check — and avoiding those dreaded RV renovation mistakes — will help you enjoy the process (and the finished product) even more. Happy renovating!

Whether cold or hot weather, making the decision to upgrade your RV insulation is a game-changer. Quite simply, it can transform your rig into a comfortable space regardless of where or when you travel. As a couple that has braved the winter cold and sought refuge from scorching summer heat, insulation has played a critical role in energy efficiency, temperature regulation, and even soundproofing. 

With a few thoughtful upgrades, you can improve climate control in your RV. That way, it feels like true home any time of year. So, let’s dive deeper into effective ways to boost your RV’s insulation and make your travels more enjoyable all year round.

1. Seal Windows and Doors for Maximum Efficiency

Over time, gaps and cracks around windows and doors develop, leading to annoying drafts. Properly sealing these entry points improves energy efficiency and makes it easier to regulate the interior temperature.

• Caulking. Use high-quality silicone caulk around windows, doors, and any seams where air might escape or come in. Silicone caulk is water-resistant and remains flexible through temperature changes, making it a great long-term solution.
• Weather Stripping. Check for deteriorating weather strips around the doors and windows. Replace them with new weather stripping designed for RVs to ensure tight seals.

Pro Tip: Keep a small infrared thermometer handy to identify any drafty areas quickly. These devices detect temperature variations, pinpointing where cold air is sneaking in.

2. Install Reflective Insulation for Seasonal Comfort

Reflective insulation is a versatile and budget-friendly solution to minimize temperature fluctuations inside your RV.

• Window Film. Apply removable insulating window film to help reflect sunlight and keep heat out during the summer. In winter, this same film helps retain heat inside.
• Reflective Panels. These panels are particularly helpful if you camp in extreme climates. Place them in your windows or even under the roof vent covers for additional protection against heat loss or gain. There are several cost-effective options.

Pro Tip: Invest in thermal curtains. They provide additional insulation and are easy to pull closed when temperatures become extreme. This works great in our Class B van to keep the cold out in the winter and the heat out in the summer. 

3. Upgrade to Energy-Efficient Windows

Upgrading your RV’s windows might require an initial investment, but the benefits in when you upgrade your RV insulation are long-lasting.

• Double-Pane Windows. These windows feature two layers of glass, and they help reduce condensation while maintaining a more consistent temperature inside your RV, making them a worthwhile upgrade.
• Alternative Solutions. If replacing windows is too expensive, consider using clear acrylic panels over your existing windows as an extra insulating layer.

Pro Tip: For maximum efficiency, ensure your window frames are insulated and sealed with foam tape or weatherproof caulk.

4. Add RV Skirting for Cold-Weather Camping

RV skirting is a game-changer for those spending extended periods in cold climates. It prevents cold air from circulating beneath your RV, helping to retain heat and protect your plumbing from freezing.

• Custom Skirting. Professional skirting is tailored to fit your RV and can be quickly installed and removed, but it can get pricey. 
• DIY Skirting. Use foam board, vinyl sheets, or plywood for a budget-friendly option. Make sure the material is secure to block out drafts effectively.
• Airskirts: For those looking to add a more mobile and space-friendly option, this is a newer solution that may be perfect for those extended winter travel plans. They are pricey, but as a long-term investment in your rig, they may be worth it if you spend a lot of time in cold weather.

Pro Tip: Install a small space heater or heat lamp under your RV during freezing temperatures to prevent pipes from freezing and to provide an extra layer of warmth.

5. Insulate Vents, Skylights, and Fans

Vents and skylights are notorious for allowing air to escape, making them key areas to target for insulation.

• Vent Covers. Foam vent cushions are easy to install and block unwanted drafts. Look for reflective vent covers to further reduce heat transfer through skylights and roof vents.
• DIY Vent Covers. Cut pieces of foam board or insulated fabric to fit the openings, providing a simple and affordable fix.

Pro Tip: Use adhesive magnetic sheets to secure vent covers during travel. They hold firm but can be easily removed when not needed.

6. Prevent Heat Loss Under the Mattress

If your bed sits above a storage compartment or is directly over the RV’s undercarriage, it can become uncomfortably cold at night. The more you think about it, this is a prime place to upgrade your RV insulation.

• Foam Board Insulation. Cut foam boards to fit under your mattress. They provide a solid thermal barrier between the bed and the cold air below.
• Mattress Topper. Adding a memory foam or thermal topper ensures maximum comfort and helps retain body heat.

Pro Tip: Consider using electric blankets or a heating pad with automatic shut-off timers for extra warmth during cold nights. (The pad is actually much better for power consumption but is smaller.) 

7. Use Door Snakes to Block Drafts

Simple but effective, door snakes (fabric tubes filled with rice, beans, or foam) block cold air from sneaking in under doors. This is more for doors inside your rig, as it can be a hassle for the entrance door.

Pro Tip: Keep an extra door snake in your storage compartments to use at windows or other drafty areas that may need quick insulation during extreme weather.

Bonus Section: Upgrades to Protect Pipes and Optimize Comfort Year-Round

Ensuring your RV stays comfortable and functional in extreme temperatures requires more than just insulation. Your heating, cooling, and plumbing systems play a critical role too. Combining smart upgrades with preventive measures helps maintain a consistent environment and protects your RV from temperature-related issues.

Upgrade Your HVAC System for Efficiency

Modern HVAC upgrades ensure your RV remains comfortable without wasting energy.

• Install a High-Efficiency Furnace. Newer RV furnaces are quieter and more energy-efficient than older models, reducing propane use while maintaining consistent warmth, so the long-term investment usually ends up paying off.
• Add a Smart Thermostat. A smart or programmable thermostat allows you to control your RV’s temperature remotely. You can optimize heating or cooling based on your schedule, improving energy efficiency.

Pro Tip: Portable fans and space heaters help distribute air more evenly, relieving your HVAC system’s workload and ensuring every corner of your RV stays comfortable. Battery powered fans are great and save your house batteries, but space heaters usually require a hookup or propane tank, so they can be costly.

Keep Pipes, Tanks, and Hoses from Freezing

When winter weather hits, preventing frozen plumbing is essential to avoid costly repairs. Cold weather can compromise your water systems if they’re not properly insulated and heated.

• Use a Heated Water Hose. A heated hose prevents water supply lines from freezing, ensuring you always have running water. Be sure to connect and plug it in before temperatures drop. 
• Install Tank Heaters. Heating pads for your black, gray, and freshwater tanks keep them from freezing during cold spells, making them ideal for off-grid camping or winter stays.
• Insulate Exposed Pipes. Wrap foam insulation around pipes, especially those underneath your RV. For additional protection, apply heat tape before insulating.
• Monitor Temperatures. Keep an eye on temperatures near pipes and tanks using thermometers. This helps you take quick action if freezing becomes a risk.

Pro Tip: On extremely cold nights, leave your interior faucets slightly dripping to keep water moving. This simple trick prevents water from freezing inside pipes.

*****

Upgrading your RV insulation doesn’t just keep you comfortable — it extends your travel season and enhances energy efficiency. My wife and I actually prefer traveling in the shoulder months because extreme weather is less common, but we have been through summer heat waves and winter freezes many times. 

So, take my word for it, whether it’s sealing windows, installing reflective panels, or adding foam insulation, each step brings you closer to creating a cozy, climate-controlled environment in your RV. With these upgrades, your rig will be ready to tackle everything from snowy mountain adventures to sweltering desert stays, ensuring every journey is enjoyable year-round.

Happy travels!