Category: RV Advice

A variety of products are available to improve the quality of your RV’s drinking water. When you fill your RV with fresh water, it may contain minerals, sediment, and chemicals, as well as bacteria and microorganisms such as cysts that can cause serious health issues. Calcium and lime are minerals that can damage plumbing fixtures. Iron can be equally destructive. Fortunately, water can be treated, but you must determine the type of water-conditioning system that will best meet your needs.

Filters

It may be helpful to understand the basics of filters. Filters are rated in microns. One micron equals one millionth of a meter. (For comparison’s sake, the diameter of a human hair can range from about 40 microns to more than 80 microns.) So, a 10-micron filter removes particles that are 10 microns or larger; anything smaller passes through the filter. A 10-micron filter removes smaller particles than a 40-micron filter, for instance. If two filters are similar in size, the filter with the lower numerical rating will restrict water flow more than the filter with the higher rating, because the finer filter media creates more resistance to water flow. Choosing a larger filter with more surface area can restore the water flow to an acceptable level. 

The material that filters the water — the media — can vary. In a basic filter, pleated paper removes particles much like a vehicle’s air filter does. Once particles fill up the paper pleats, the filter restricts water flow and must be replaced. Other basic filters may employ a blow-molded media that allows the particles to be embedded into the filter with some depth, which results in longer life. Basic water filters are suitable for removing sand and solid particles that are larger than the filter’s micron rating. But they will not remove fine particles or ions that are suspended in the water. So, while they can filter the water, they do not treat it. Granular activated carbon (GAC) filters remove chlorine, sulfur, and other contaminants from water, as well as taste and odor. Some RVers have expressed concern that using carbon filtration to remove chlorine may cause stagnation in fresh-water tanks. 

A tank’s vent allows chlorine to evaporate anyway. Rather than relying on chlorine to prevent stagnation, make sure the fresh-water tank doesn’t stay filled with the same water for long periods — use the water, or simply drain the tank. Also, sanitize the tank periodically. If the water in the tank is used and replenished regularly, such as when full-timing, you may need to sanitize only annually. But if the RV sits unused for extended periods, you may need to sanitize much more frequently. 

A drawback to carbon is that bacteria can grow and build up inside the filter. That can be prevented by choosing a bacteriostatic filter with kinetic degradation fluxion (KDF) media, which are high-purity copper-zinc granules interspersed with the carbon. KDF controls the buildup of bacteria, extending the filter’s life. Chlorine, lead, mercury, and hydrogen sulfide are removed, and even iron, to an extent. The GAC/KDF filters cost a bit more than standard GAC filters, but the results are well worth it. Such filters are available from various vendors, including Hydro Life, Pentek, and Flow-Pur. 

Another option is the Pulsar Quantum Disinfection System by US Water Systems. The filter’s media surfaces have been modified via a patent-pending process. According to the company, tests by the EPA and other certified labs have shown that 99.99 percent of microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast, and algae are immediately destroyed as they come in contact with the media. The drawback is that before water enters the Quantum Disinfection System, it must be prefiltered to remove iron, sulfur, manganese, tannins, turbidity, and suspended solids, which can bind the Quantum Disinfection media.

Iron

Iron can affect the color and taste of water, and it can be difficult to remove from water. As noted, KDF-based filters can educe iron to an acceptable level, if the iron content is fairly low. But for water supplies with a fairly high iron content, a dedicated iron filter is required. It also will remove sulfur.

An iron filter draws air into a chamber where the iron or sulfur is oxidized into particulate. The water then percolates over a bed of filtration media, which traps the iron or sulfur oxides. When it is no longer effective, the iron filter regenerates by backflushing, similar to a water softener. However, no salt or brine tank is required. The filter is simply backflushed with water, and then air is allowed to enter the top of the filter to recharge it. 

Iron filters can be equipped with manual heads or automatic heads to facilitate regeneration. A drain line must be connected to the gray-water tank or to the sewer to accommodate the wastewater when backflushing, although the water is safe and could be dispersed onto the ground if that is allowed. The media has a long life; it’s likely you’ll never have to replace the filter or its media for as long as you own your RV. Because it does not require disposable filters or salt to operate, it’s basically a zero-cost maintenance item for as long as you own the filter.

Water Softeners

Drinking hard water, which is high in mineral content, is not a known health hazard. In fact, the World Health Organization has determined that hard water could be a good supplementary source of calcium and magnesium. However, minerals such as calcium carbonate cause a lime-scale buildup in an RV’s fresh-water system. The scale can restrict flow in cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) water lines and can lead to galvanic corrosion when two dissimilar metals are in contact. Hard water also inhibits soap suds, leaves soap scum after showering, and produces white calcium deposits on dishes and cups after washing. 

Hard water can’t be treated effectively by conventional filters. Treatment requires a water softener, which consists of a tank filled with polymer resin beads. A softener operates on an ion-exchange principle. The resin is treated with a salt brine that coats the beads with sodium ions. As water passes through the softener, the resin exchanges the calcium and magnesium ions for sodium ions, which effectively neutralizes the hardness in the water. 

Eventually, the sodium ions become depleted and the resin beads become coated with the calcium and magnesium ions. At that point, the softener can’t treat any more hard water and requires regeneration. During regeneration, the ion-exchange process is reversed. A salt brine passes through the softener, picks up the hard water deposits from the resin media, and carries it into the wastewater through a backwash process. Once these deposits have been removed from the resin, a salt brine runs through the softener to recoat the resin with sodium ions so that it can continue to soften incoming water. 

Residential softeners have metering systems and regeneration controls that do this automatically, based on the volume of water. But they are too large for use in an RV. Small, portable units for RVs are available but require manual regeneration. 

To determine when regeneration is necessary, RV owners can use inexpensive test strips to measure water hardness according to a color chart. Regeneration generally involves adding salt crystals like solar salt to a filter housing or chamber, and then running water through the softener to dissolve the salt and carry the brine through the resin beads, treating it as it passes through.

In my motorhome, I installed a residential-style softener with a fully automated control head from Motor Coach Water Filtration. The compact package fits into an RV’s basement compartment, yet it has the features of large residential softeners, including a separate brine tank. The system is programmable and automatically regenerates the softener when needed. It also uses less salt during the regeneration process than manual systems. Keep in mind that some claims by those selling water softeners can be suspect. Advertising that says a softener will treat a certain number of gallons is misleading. Water softeners treat a given amount of hardness in water. If the water is mildly hard, the softener can treat many more gallons than when treating extremely hard water. Areas such as the Pacific Northwest, the Southeast (except for Florida), and the New England states generally have soft water, while much of the Midwest has moderately hard to extremely hard water, as do portions of the Southwest. Softeners with larger tanks can treat more water between regeneration cycles. 

For RV owners, storage space is limited, so compromises must be made. If space is not available, you can utilize a large softener and place it outside the RV near the campground water supply. However, to prevent damage to the softener, it must be kept from freezing. Also, softeners should be transported in the vertical position to avoid damaging the strainer basket. 

Deionized Water

When you wash and rinse your RV with untreated water, minerals in the water leave spots on the painted finish. Deionized rinse water eliminates those spots. Deionized water has had almost all of its mineral ions removed, such as sodium, calcium, iron, chloride, and sulfate. But deionization does not significantly remove viruses or bacteria. 

Deionizers are available in a variety of configurations. Like in a water softener, the media in a deionizer eventually gives up its ions and no longer works. It must be replaced or regenerated. Regeneration is feasible only on large-scale applications, because concentrated acid and caustic material are used to strip away accumulated ions through physical replacement. For typical consumer use, such as when washing an RV, replacement cartridges are more desirable. A two-bed system uses separate positively charged and negatively charged ion resin beds. Both types of resin are required to totally deionize water, although mixed-bed systems are available that require only one tank. A mixed-bed system provides the highest water quality, while a two-bed system has a larger capacity. 

Once the resin has been exhausted, it must be replaced. Some tanks can be refilled with bulk media, while other systems use disposable cartridges. A dual-probe total dissolved solids (TDS) meter, with one probe sampling incoming water and the other sampling the outgoing deionized water, can tell you when the media is no longer functioning. Deionizer media life can be extended by using regular softened water for washing the RV and reserving the deionized water for the final rinse.

Reverse Osmosis Systems

In reverse osmosis (RO) systems, water is forced through a semipermeable membrane that filters out contaminants larger than the water molecules; smaller particles remain in the water. An RO system removes contaminants such as arsenic, sodium, nitrates/nitrites, copper, lead, and some organic chemicals. The municipal additive fluoride also is removed. RO systems require pressure to force the water through the membrane. A fair amount of wastewater is involved in the process, and the fairly low water pressure in an RV water system means you expend more water than you purify. Because the filtered water passes through the RO system quite slowly, it goes to a storage tank for use as needed. 

Water must be reasonably clean before entering an RO system, so prefilters and carbon block filters are used to remove contaminants such as volatile organic chemicals, chlorine, and synthetic chemicals. The end product is RO water that is 95 percent to 99 percent pure. Some experts argue that such water can be too pure, because in addition to harmful contaminants, RO removes calcium and magnesium — minerals that are essential to our health. 

Reports from the World Health Organization (WHO) point out that while food is our principal source of calcium and magnesium, many people’s diets fail to include the recommended amounts. For some people, “mineral-rich drinking waters may provide substantial contributions to total intakes of these nutrients . . .” a 2009 WHO report said. The report also said it’s worth weighing the potential benefits of systems that remove minerals from water against the potential harm of reducing calcium, magnesium, and fluoride levels below recommended thresholds. 

You can find experts on both sides of this issue. If you are considering the purchase of an RO system, do some research so you can make a decision that best fits your needs. If you have an RO water system and are con-cerned about the removal of beneficial minerals, you might consider purchasing a remineral-ization kit that adds calcium and magnesium to water. Also be aware that water produced by an RO system has a lower pH, which makes it corrosive to fresh-water plumbing. As a result, brass fittings, faucet fixtures, and water pump components may have shorter lives.

Sanitation

Regardless of the filtration method you choose, the system won’t perform its best if bacteria or algae are in the system. You must sanitize the system. Chlorine bleach has its drawbacks. Typically, household bleach is a solution of 5 percent to 7 percent sodium hypochlorite. That concentration drops drastically through gasification — as much as 50 percent in one month — so chlorine as a sanitizer has a short shelf life. Chlorine also penetrates plastic and can harm fresh-water tanks, PEX water lines, and water-pump seals. In addition, when chlorine comes into contact with organic material, it produces trihalomethanes, which are recognized carcinogens. 

An alternative is Pro Products’ Sani-System, a liquid sanitizer that is EPA-approved for water softeners, RO systems, and water coolers. Sani-System is an ammonium-chloride-based product that is said to kill 99.9 percent of bacteria within 60 seconds, whereas chlorine bleach and peroxides must be in the system much longer to oxidize or kill bacteria. Sani-System is not an oxidizer and won’t harm plastics, rubber, or polyamide RO membranes. And unlike bleach, which leaves a residual chlorine taste and takes time to remove by continued flushing, Sani-System rinses out of the system easily without an aftertaste. It does not harm carbon, but carbon’s porosity makes it difficult to rinse out completely. 

So, the best practice is to remove carbon filter elements prior to sanitizing and replace them when finished. There is no one-size-fits-all solution to water treatment. Choose a method that works for your situation to ensure that you have a safe water supply and a fresh-water system that runs well.

Resources:

CR Spotless Water Systems, C13245 (858) 530-9993 www.crspotless.com

Motor Coach Water Filtration (239) 776-6002 www.motorcoachwaterfiltration.com

On The Go (866) 482-9614 www.portablewatersoftener.com

RV Water Filter Store (602) 625-1875 www.rvwaterfilterstore.com

Pro Products (Sani-System) (866) 452-7842 www.proproducts.com

Softcell Recreational Water Systems, C11469 (612) 325-2886 www.softcellwater.com

US Water Systems (855) 923-6913 www.uswatersystems.com

Western Water Purifier Co., C7 (800) 559-2837  

Take care of your water heater and you will be sure to have a reliable supply of hot water during your travels.

Prolonged showers at home may be taken for granted. While traveling in an RV, a hot shower might involve an interesting test of timing, especially when more than one person is considered. It is truly the experienced RVer who is aware of just how long it takes four to 16 gallons of hot water to trickle down the drain, even while practicing sound water conservation.

The typical RV water heater, however, like any propane-burning appliance, requires occasional maintenance in order to maximize its potential. Fortunately, the water heater is usually easy to access, with most mandated tasks doable by most RV handypersons. The water heater is typically situated at a comfortable height, and most components are located on the outside of the RV behind a vented door. Some older models may have parts and pieces at the rear of the unit, but for the most part, newer units have their components on the exterior.

Types Of Water Heaters

The most common type of water heater found in campers today is the direct spark ignition (DSI) model. To use this fully automatic model, all an owner has to do is to make sure the heater is properly filled with water and then flip a switch. A circuit board controls all its relative functions. Since it’s the most prevalent, the DSI type will be the focus of this article.

The second most popular choice of RV builders today is the pilot-type heater. Simple in design and function, pilot-type heaters have been an RV industry mainstay for years. Even though they are less expensive than their automatic cousins, they are less popular. It appears that automation wins out over economics.

Another type of water heater is the electric-only version. Powered by 120-volt-AC electric, these units operate only when plugged into a shoreline or when onboard generator or inverter power is available. As many manufacturers of larger RVs move toward all-electric appliances, this type is sure to become more popular. They are plentiful in the marine world as well.

Most water heaters today combine propane and electric power. An electric heating element protrudes into the tank portion of the heater, which allows the RV to utilize propane while dry camping, or power the water heater with 120-volt-AC electricity while plugged in. (Quick note: if your heater is a combination gas/electric-type model, and AC electricity is available, you can quickly bring the water temperature up by operating the unit on gas and electric at the same time.) It is not advisable to install an aftermarket electric heating element designed to replace the drain plug. Use only manufacturer-approved replacement parts.

An internal heat exchanger (motor-aid) is another option offered by water heater makers. This feature allows the motorhome’s engine coolant lines to be routed through tubing inside the storage tank, thereby heating the water while the engine is running. By the time the user reaches a destination, hot water is readily available at the faucets. While this may be convenient, the maintenance factor becomes greater with motor-aid models, because the hoses periodically need to be replaced. On some of the larger Type A motorhomes, this could be an expensive, yet necessary, undertaking. Akin to some models of RV refrigerators, water heaters, too, are available using three different energy sources.

Yet another type of water heater is making a comeback in the RV industry: the weight-saving tankless heater, which is commonly called an instantaneous water heater. This design does not involve an actual storage tank. Incoming water flows through a coil that is heated by super-sized propane burners. The flame is lit only when there is a demand for water. As soon as the hot faucet is turned off, the burner goes off as well. Activation is automatic via an impeller-type switching valve.

Finally, many owners of diesel-powered motorhomes may be familiar with hydronic heating systems in which individual zones within the coach are comfort-heated independently, while at the same time domestic water is heated and delivered to all the hot faucets inside the motorhome. Since 1984, hydronic heating systems have been installed in many brands of motorhomes. Because this type of system requires specific, atypical maintenance procedures, we’ll leave hydronic heating maintenance to a future blog. Our focus here will center on the typical DSI propane RV water heater found in thousands of RVs.

Water Heater Components

Components found on every propane water heater containing its own storage tank (pilot and DSI-type) include:

• an inner storage tank
• a pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve
• a drain plug; a main burner orifice
• a mixing tube
• the primary air adjustment.

What follows is a brief description of each of these parts and their maintenance requirements.

Storage tank

The inner tank is surrounded by insulation and typically encased with cardboard, foam, or metal. Water heaters are usually installed under a cabinet, so other than the access door, external aesthetics are not necessarily a consideration.

Flushing the tank is the main task to consider. To extend the life of the tank and to eliminate the buildup of mineral deposits inside, flush the heater at least a couple times each season. Mineral deposits settle to the bottom of the tank, so simply draining it will not completely rinse out these deposits, as the drain outlet is not positioned at the very bottom of the tank.

Pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve

As a safety component, the P&T valve often has been viewed by RVers as an enigma of sorts. Many P&T valves have been unnecessarily replaced, deemed defective simply because they sometimes dripped water. But that is by design. Here’s why:

As any contained liquid is heated and the temperature rises, the content will expand and become pressurized. Without a means to regulate or control this expansion during the heating cycle, the unchecked pressure and temperature could eventually rupture the tank, resulting in serious injury. Water temps exceeding 210 degrees Fahrenheit are considered unsafe. Therefore, all P&T valves on today’s heaters are preset to open at 210 degrees. In the small confines of the RV water heater, the water is heated relatively quickly, so keeping up with the drastic fluctuations of both temperature and pressure is extremely important.

It is also important that a cushion of air be maintained inside the tank, above the level of the water. This air pocket acts like an accumulator during hot water delivery and also allows space for the water to expand during the heating cycle. Over time the oxygen in this air pocket is absorbed into the water, with the net result being a completely filled tank, with no void above.

At this point, there is no place for the expanding water to move into since the tank is literally full. The P&T valve then does its job — it opens. Expelling hot water from the outlet of the P&T valve allows cold water to enter the tank (thus lowering the temperature) and the relief valve closes.

P&T valves will fail over time, but, by and large, all will drip on occasion. If an adequate air cushion is maintained, the P&T relief valve should not leak. If an adequate air cushion is not maintained, then it is normal for the valve to drip water. If the valve drips or weeps during nonheating phases and the pressure within the fresh water system is regulated properly, then the relief valve may indeed be faulty.

Drain plug

All water heaters have a drain of some type. Older models incorporated an actual drain valve, while modern units use a threaded plug. Atwood (www.atwoodmobile.com) installs a plastic pipe plug. Many owners have mistakenly and inappropriately replaced the plastic plug with one made of brass. The plastic plug actually serves as a redundant safety device and should never be replaced with a metallic plug. If the plastic plug becomes damaged, always replace it with an Atwood plastic plug.

Atwood water heaters, by the way, do not require an anode, since their inner tanks are constructed of aluminum alloy. Do not cave into aftermarket attempts to sell you an anode for an Atwood water heater.

Suburban (www.rvcomfort.com) incorporates a component called an anode rod into its drain plug. Designed as a sacrificial element, the magnesium anode keeps electrolysis to a minimum and extends the life of the inner tank. All chemical and mineral reactions taking place inside the tank will attack the “weaker” molecules of the magnesium anode instead of the tank walls. Periodically, this sacrificial anode will have to be replaced. A deteriorated anode rod also may produce a less-than-favorable odor that can permeate the water system. Replace the Suburban anode rod/drain plug when it is reduced to 25 percent of its original size. On older American Appliance heaters, the anode will be accessible inside the motorhome at the rear of the heater.

Main burner orifice

The main burner orifice is threaded into the gas control valve outlet fitting. It directs a specific amount of propane into the next downstream component, the mixing tube. The orifice can be removed, soaked in acetone, allowed to air dry, and reinstalled. Never insert anything into the orifice. A simple acetone cleaning is all that is necessary to keep the gas flowing properly.

Mixing tube

The mixing tube is where the propane and the primary air are mixed just prior to combustion at the main burner. This tube, though not a precision component, must be kept clean, and more importantly, properly aligned.

As gas is projected through the main burner orifice, air is drawn in through the openings in the mixing tube. This “Venturi effect” brings in air that is needed to mix with the propane in order to have safe and complete combustion.

Make sure the mixing tube is properly centered on the main burner orifice fitting and that the alignment with the gas control valve is correct. Misalignment is one of the most common reasons for improper combustion in water heaters. The mixing tube should be in line with the flow of gas and positioned so the orifice is aimed at the direct center of the opening to the mixing tube.

This is the component that’s most prone to critter infestation, such as insect and spider nests, so make sure to check and clean it out often.

Primary air adjustment

As mentioned, the opening in the main burner orifice has a specific-size opening, so the only variable in the gas/air ratio is the amount of primary air allowed to enter. The primary air adjustment controls the volume of this incoming air.

The primary air adjustment is manipulated while the main burner flame is ignited. The flame should appear mostly blue in color with some orange or yellow tinges. Proper adjustment is attained when the flame is the correct color and also when the burner does not produce a loud, roaring flame. If you can hear the burner more than 5 feet away with the water heater door closed, chances are the mixture is incorrect and further adjustment is necessary.

In addition to the common components listed above, DSI models also incorporate a thermostat, an energy cut off (ECO) switch, a circuit board, a solenoid gas valve, and an electrode assembly.

Thermostat

Longtime coach owners might remember when all water heaters were controlled by a manually adjusted thermostat. A lever or knob was manipulated to make the water hotter or colder. With a DSI heater, adjustment of the water temperature is out of the RVer’s hands. On most units the thermostat is a preset, temperature-sensing, normally closed thermal switch that electrically turns off the heating sequence when the preset temperature has been attained. The nonadjustable thermostat is a thermal disc device secured to the front or rear of the water heater in direct contact with the inner tank. Most thermostats for DSI water heaters are preset for temperatures between 120 degrees and 140 degrees Fahrenheit. In some cases, a thermostat can be replaced with one of a higher or lower temperature rating.

ECO switch

Wired in-line between the circuit board and the gas valve, in series with the thermostat is the ECO switch. Some may contain a resettable push button; others will automatically reset once the water temperature drops below the preset temperature rating of the ECO switch. The ECO switch and the thermostat are considered high-temperature safety devices to help protect the appliance and the user. Other than keeping the wire connections clean and tight, no maintenance is required for the ECO switch or the thermostat.

Circuit board

The circuit board is the heart of any DSI appliance. Similar to a furnace board, the circuit board for a water heater energizes and opens the gas solenoid valve; creates a high-voltage spark that ignites the burner; monitors the flame sense circuit from the electrode assembly; and places the unit into lockout when it fails to detect a flame. Clean the contact strip where the multipin connector plugs in. Consider purchasing a product called DeoxIT (www.caig.com). Small amounts of corrosion, invisible to the naked eye, can prohibit proper current conduction, often resulting in strange operating characteristics. Keeping the board contacts clean and preserved will minimize or eliminate erratic operation.

Solenoid gas valve

The solenoid gas valve is controlled by the circuit board. The incoming gas tube attaches to one side of this valve while the main burner fitting and orifice are located at the other end. Energized by a 12-volt-DC electric coming from the circuit board, the gas valve will remain open as long as it is receiving voltage. The gas solenoid valve closes only under the following normal conditions: when the water temperature reaches the maximum thermostat rating; when the ECO trips and opens; and when the 12-volt-DC power supply is interrupted from the circuit board.

As with the thermostat and ECO, just keep the electrical connections on the gas valve clean, dry, and tight.

Electrode assembly

The electrode assembly receives the high-voltage output from the circuit board and creates an electrical arc to ground. At the same time, the gas and air mixture is forced to flow through this electrical arc, initiating fuel ignition at the burner. The electrode probe also “senses” the presence of the flame and sends a micro-amp signal back to the board, allowing the gas valve to remain open. If the flame is extinguished for any reason, the micro-amp circuit between the electrode and board is broken, and the board shuts off the voltage to the gas valve, thereby closing it and stopping the flow of propane.

This electrode assembly is susceptible to carbon buildup and heat stresses over a period of time. Many circuit boards have been replaced in error when the cause of an outage has simply been a dirty electrode assembly. Periodically removing the carbon deposits and brightening each electrode will help keep the heater working properly.

Carbon deposits can be cleaned off and the probes brightened with steel wool. Inspect the probes and replace the entire assembly when the probes become pitted or if a portion of the ceramic insulator is broken. Check the gap between the probes. If the electrode assembly has three probes, the gap between the spark probe and the ground probe should be half as large as the gap between the ground probe and the flame sense probe. Manipulate only the center ground probe to achieve this spacing differential. If the arc jumps from the spark probe to the flame sense probe, it will damage the circuit board, which could be an expensive consequence.

If the electrode assembly has only two probes, the gap between them should measure approximately 1/8-inch. Take care when adjusting these probes. If any portion of the ceramic insulator becomes cracked or broken, the entire electrode assembly will have to be replaced.

There are also variables outside the water heater unit that need to be maintained and monitored for optimal performance.

Battery voltage

To operate correctly, the incoming DC voltage must be maintained between 10.5 and 13.5 volts to all DSI appliances, whether on battery power or through the converter. Also, do not overlook the negative side of DC circuitry. A faulty ground connection at the water heater can cause erratic operation and outages.

Propane gas pressure

At least once each year, have a professional RV service technician measure and adjust the propane delivery line pressure, evaluate the regulator lockup pressure, and have the entire propane system checked for leaks. These tests will ensure all the propane-burning appliances are fed the proper gas pressure. Ignoring this can lead to intermittent operation, appliance failure, undetected leaks, and regulator failure. It is a safety issue.

Additional Water Heater Tips

At least once (maybe twice) during the camping season, it will be necessary to perform the described maintenance procedures on the water heater. Remember, the heater’s controls are exposed to the elements; therefore road grime, dust, and dirt have ample opportunity to gather in and around the various components. Periodically blowing the exposed areas of the water heater with compressed air will help to minimize this condition. Likewise, soot and remnants of combustion will gather in the flue portion of the heater. Blow through the flue occasionally with compressed air as well. Be sure to wear eye protection when performing this step, as flying debris will be present.

Though most RVs come from the factory outfitted with a water heater bypass kit, it is advised to install one if yours is not so equipped. Permanently attached to the rear of the water heater, the valve configuration of a bypass kit allows the water heater to be closed off from the rest of the fresh water plumbing system. This is helpful when the RV’s plumbing system is winterized and RV antifreeze is used.

Purchase a kit equipped with metallic valves. Plastic bypass valves can contribute to water heater operational issues such as intermittent hot water and low hot water pressure, among other symptoms. Brass valves will not distort with prolonged exposure to heat, and they are not prone to failure.

In addition, there might be a one-way check valve positioned at the cold inlet fitting at the rear of the water heater (there also may be one at the water heater outlet). This prevents heated water from migrating out of the heater and back into the cold water plumbing. Normally, this isn’t an issue, but if there happens to be a cold water tee plumbed into the system fairly close to the rear of the water heater, heated water can be drawn into another fixture, such as the toilet. It can be a bit unnerving to see steam rising from the toilet whenever it’s flushed. You chuckle, but it has happened!

Although a check valve has no maintenance requirements, it is mentioned in case your water heater does not have one at the cold inlet. It’s relatively easy to install, and it just may save the heater from expending unnecessary energy trying to heat water in the cold distribution piping just outside of the water heater itself.

The Wrap-Up

As with many items aboard the RV, preventive maintenance practices will not only extend the life of the water heater, but they can eliminate, or at least minimize, those pesky interruptions during excursions. As usual, if you do not feel comfortable performing any of the procedures listed here, do not attempt them. Simply call your local RV service shop. Service centers employing certified or master certified technicians stand more than ready to perform this service for you. And remember, RVing is more than a hobby; it’s a lifestyle!

How to Correctly Flush the RV Water Heater

1. Make sure all energy sources to the water heater are turned off and that the water inside the tank has cooled.

2. Turn off all sources of water pressure — the demand pump and the city water supply — and bleed off the water system pressure by opening a faucet.

3. Drain the water heater by removing the plug. To aid in draining, open all the hot faucets throughout the RV.

4. If water barely trickles out of the drain opening at this point, carefully insert a straightened coat hanger into the tank to help break up any calcified deposits. Take special care not to scrape the inner sides of the tank, or damage may result.

5. Use a water heater cleanout tool to help flush mineral deposits. When all evidence of cloudy water has been eliminated, close all the hot faucets opened earlier and turn on the city water supply or the demand pump — the higher the pressure, the better. If a pressure regulator is normally used in-line with the city connection, temporarily remove it for this step.

6. Open the pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve and allow water to gush from the drain opening as fresh water rushes in.

7. Allow this flushing to continue for five to 10 minutes. This will remove any stagnant water along with any remaining mineral particles in the tank.

8. After about 10 minutes of flushing, turn off the water source; reinstall the drain plug; and close the P&T valve by allowing the lever to snap shut.

9. Turn on a water pressure source once again and open all the hot water faucets inside the coach until water flows freely from all hot faucets. This will automatically fill the water heater and eliminate air pockets in the distribution system.

10. Finally, turn off the water source but leave the hot faucets open. Then open the P&T relief valve once again to release any water at the top of the tank. This establishes that needed cushion of air on top of the water. Remember, this air gap is necessary so the heated water will have room to expand. When water stops dripping from the P&T valve, close the hot faucets inside the motorhome and the P&T valve. The heater is now ready for operation.

FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tech tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Learn more at FMCA.com.

This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

As we move further into fall, memories of our summer RVing excursions may still linger in our minds. But with the coming chill, so too does the thought of putting our faithful RV into storage mode. Though a seemingly mundane task, there is a correct methodology for getting your coach ready for any period of non-use; especially if you are contemplating utilizing one of the available private or public storage facilities. Certain precautions, correctly applied, will guarantee your coach will stand a better chance of surviving its secluded hibernation.

The first necessary decision is whether to store your rig at home or off-site at a dedicated RV storage facility. If you have a relatively level space at your residence, there’s no need to spend the bucks at a facility unless security is an issue. But keep in mind, many municipalities are cracking down on stored RVs within residential areas, even those parked on the street. It is your responsibility to learn if your home base has any new RV restrictions. Also check your existing Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&R’s), if applicable.

RV Storage Locations

Everything from a vacant dirt lot to an indoor five-star, temperature-controlled facility can be considered for parking your rig for any period of non-use. When deciding which level of sophistication (and subsequent degree of expense) to evaluate, the primary concern should always be the overall security and welfare of your RV. A nicely paved, inexpensive level lot behind a locked gate might sound appealing, but if its location is remote, it might not be a wise choice. An isolated location might be susceptible to vandals or break-ins. Do your homework when considering such a location.

Preparing the RV

Flush and drain every holding tank. The fresher the tanks, the better the chance of minimizing sewer odor build-up and blockages. Don’t forget to flush and rinse the sewer hose as well! If possible, lubricate the termination valves, but leave them in the closed position.

Some RVers remove every drop of water from the fresh water plumbing system, but if below freezing weather is anticipated, I recommend the wet method of winterizing, whereby RV anti-freeze is pumped throughout the fresh water piping system and poured into every P-trap. Enough anti-freeze should also be flushed down the toilet and sinks; just enough to cover the bottom of each holding tank.

Ensure the propane container is turned completely off and that all the appliances are off. Check the integrity of the cover over the propane regulator.

If outdoors, cut cardboard inserts to position inside the water heater and refrigerator exterior access panels to keep the dust and dirt accumulation to a minimum. Cover the furnace intake and exhaust assemblies with blue painter’s tape to keep insects from entering.

Place an opened box of baking soda or an appropriate desiccant/absorbent inside the refrigerator food compartments and prop open the refrigerator door(s).

If possible, remove the batteries when expecting sustained below-freezing temperatures or if the coach will be in a remote, unsecured location. Always fully charge all batteries before storing the rig. Once fully charged, employ the battery disconnect device, if so equipped, or at the very least, remove the ground terminals from the batteries to disconnect them totally. Remove all dry cell batteries too!

Turn off all 120-volt (AC) circuit breakers and unplug any device that plugs into a receptacle, such as the refrigerator, microwave/convection oven, washer, dryer, entertainment centers, icemakers, televisions, etc. Rogue lightning strikes, even a couple hundred yards away, can cause problems. Expensive problems!

Thoroughly inspect the underneath portions of the RV. Look closely for any cracks or openings into the floor or interior of the coach. Seal around drain piping, propane tubing, and electrical harnesses that extend through the floor into the living areas of the coach.

When parked on asphalt, use non-absorbing, synthetic blocks under the footprints of the tires. If stored outdoors, cover the tires to minimize UV and ozone contamination and obscure the windows to avoid sun damage and the fading of fabrics. In high moisture locales, place absorbent desiccant inside the two major living sections of the RV.

Consider using a total coach cover, but take precautions to keep the cover from rubbing on the roof or at the edges. This can be damaging to synthetic roofing materials such as EPDM rubber or TPO. At the very least, it’s a wise decision to install a rooftop air conditioner cover if a coach cover is not used.

If possible, leave a roof vent cracked open slightly at one end of the RV and a window cracked open at the opposite end. This will induce a bit of convection airflow inside the coach to minimize the progression of mold and mildew.

Check all window, roof vents and door seals and weather-stripping. As I often mention, moisture intrusion is the biggest cause of RV damage. Also, treat all exposed exterior surfaces with the appropriate protectant.

Periodic Visitation

When possible, visit your hibernating rolling home from time to time; especially if the period of non-use extends past just a few weeks. It’s a wise RVer who changes the position of the RV at least once a month, moving it forward or backwards slightly, to alter the footprint of the tires to prevent flat spots from developing. Just a foot or two is usually all that is required.

It is also recommended to periodically start a gasoline motorhome engine and to exercise a gasoline generator, when so equipped. Consult the owner’s manual for your make of chassis and generator for specific instructions, but the general consensus is to run the generator for a couple of hours at half-load, at least once a month, in order to prohibit varnishing of the fuel. One single two-hour run at half-load is much better than a bunch of short runs. Diesel-powered RVs and generators will likely require different procedures, so be sure to follow the recommendations of the manufacturer to avoid performance issues when it’s time to awaken your resting rig from its respite.

Once a month, carefully inspect the roof for entry points of water intrusion if a total coach cover is not employed. Always perform roof repairs as soon as leaks are discovered. Do not wait until you remove the coach from storage! Any damage will only get worse over time.

When it is time to remove your RV from storage, always consult with the facility manager to absolve any dispute or damage issue possibly incurred during the storage period before moving the RV. Be sure to re-activate your full insurance coverage!

By carefully determining and acknowledging your requirements ahead of time, and wisely choosing the best-suited storage location, your RV will safely endure its period of non-use and present itself ready for the next step, the spring shakedown! And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!

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