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Category: RV Advice

  • What to Know Before Selecting a Class C Motorhome

    What to Know Before Selecting a Class C Motorhome

    Traveling in an RV is an experience like no other. The ability to have your personal belongings and customizable personal space with you throughout your travels is very convenient and comfortable. It is also much more cost-effective than purchasing airfare and staying in hotels. But with all the different types of RVs, it can be difficult to choose the kind that’s best for you. After all, the individual needs of the traveler are one of the most important factors when selecting a class of RV.

    If you are considering purchasing a new RV or switching to a different type, then you have come to the right place. We’ll be covering the features and pros and cons of Class C motorhomes. Continue reading to learn everything you need to know about them before purchasing one of your own.

    What is a Class C motorhome?

    A Class C motorhome is almost like a combination of a Class A and Class B, or rather a compromise between the two. Class Cs are built on a truck or van chassis that is built specifically for a motorhome. They are usually designed to have an overhang over the cab that is typically an extra bed or additional storage. This class of motorhome is revered for having the most sleeping space. Some of the newer, larger models can sleep up to 11 people.

    These RVs usually run between twenty-one and thirty-five feet, making them a more compact solution than a Class A, but slightly bigger than a Class B. Due to their smaller size, they are fairly easy to navigate and park – some only take up a bit more than a parking space.

    More recently, manufacturers have increased the size and capabilities of these RVs by designing the Super-C. This RV is built on a Ford F550 or Freightliner chassis. The front of Super-Cs sometimes look like a semi-truck and other types retain the overhang cab. Super-Cs are heavy duty and the largest of this class.

    Features

    Class C motorhomes retain great gas mileage, especially the diesel varieties. These motorhomes sometimes have the ability to tow around 5,000 pounds, depending on the model, and Super-Cs can tow up to 35,000 pounds.

    Floor plans in these vary greatly, depending on the length and type of Class C. Generally, the newer models include up to four slide outs for additional space. Many Class Cs share similar features, such as a kitchen with a stove and cooktop, up to two bathrooms, and a dining area.

    One of the biggest drawbacks of Class Cs is the lack of outdoor storage space. Class Cs are usually lacking in the number and size of outdoor storage bays, which makes packing large items such as chairs and coolers a challenge.

     

    Traveling and set up

    Driving a Class C is similar to driving a long van. They are not as high off the ground as Class As, which can ease the fears of some drivers. Class Cs are similar to Class As in their necessary campsite setup, although some Class Cs can back into parking spaces significantly easier than Class As can, due to their shorter length and height. Leveling a Class C is very important, but most do not come equipped with automatic leveling kits. The most efficient way to level these RVs is to use leveling blocks and a bubble leveler.

     

    Long term

    A self-contained RV is both a pro and a con. The pro is that, while driving down the road, travelers have everything they need in the comfort of their own home on wheels. However, with motorhomes, you can expect much more maintenance. If you are towing another vehicle, you can then expect to maintain two engines. In addition, repairs to self-contained RVs are almost always significantly more expensive, and RV mechanics are less prevalent than regular garages.

    Depending on the size of the Class C you choose, a towed vehicle may be helpful for navigating tighter roads when your RV is stationary. When deciding whether or not to tow, there are many factors to consider, and many of those can add to the upfront costs of purchasing an RV.
    Other considerations

    Storing a Class C during the off-season is more expensive than storing a regular vehicle. The height and length of the RV impacts where you will be able to store it, and a specialty RV storage facility is likely your best option.

    Class C RVs have most of the features of their big sister, the Class A, and can rival them in size. As we mentioned previously, the biggest drawback to these is their lack of outdoor storage. Owning a Class C is not for everyone, but if a Class C is your dream RV and fits your traveling needs, take a look at the new and used Class C RVs for sale on RV Trader.

     

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

    FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

    Missed RV upkeep and repair items can become costly if you do not catch them in time.

    You have made a major investment in an RV. You take great pride in keeping it clean, waxed, and properly maintained. Have you completely read, understood, and followed the information and instructions in all of the manuals for your unit? Some coaches come with encyclopedia-size booklets, others with just a thin pamphlet. Either way, numerous items require regular attention, some of which you may never have heard of or thought about. I hope that this article will encourage you to look into them.

    Some RVers cite cost as a reason they haven’t precisely followed recommendations in the manuals. However, many businesses have found it is cheaper and safer to implement a planned preventive maintenance (PM) schedule for their equipment. Even if they trade or sell their equipment often, they know that an attached PM report increases the items’ resale value.

    Imagine you are out looking at two nearly identical RVs with the same mileage. One comes with documented PM records and costs more than the one without. Which one would you purchase? If you stop to think about it, the one without records may end up costing you more during its life. First, you have to spend money to bring it up to specs before any trips. Second, items that have not been maintained properly will wear out faster than normal, use more energy, and could be dangerous.

    More often than not, overlooked maintenance items are the leading contributor to the need for emergency road repairs. You can save time, money, frustration, and maybe your marriage just by following your manuals’ recommendations. Many RVs out there receive little or no care; is yours one of them? When they do break down, it may be just a tip of the iceberg of problems to come.

    An old saying from the horse and buggy days applies to the RV lifestyle: “Rode hard and put away wet.” This means subjecting something to extremely hard use and then doing nothing to care for it when finished. Our RVs can sit for several months unused, and then they are off to the races for a weekend getaway or a coast-to-coast run. After reaching the destination, we shut them down and ignore them until the next expedition. Because of a RV’s weight and aerodynamics, the motor, transmission, cooling system, and brakes could be considered as operating in a severe-duty service whenever used. This makes preventive maintenance more important than ever, so follow the manuals’ suggestions.

    Below is a list of items that are easy to overlook. It is a little long; however, these items deserve attention before they require an expensive solution. Most manufacturers recommend them as yearly checks. Please reference your manuals, the company’s website, or its service department for specific recommendations regarding your RV and its components and accessories.

    Frame/Driveline

     

    • Batteries: Far and away, the most common battery repairs technicians make are to resolve loose connections, especially on the ground/negative side and wires. Check all terminals and frame grounds for corrosion and tightness. Wash down battery areas with a water-and-baking soda solution or an approved cleaner. Check electrolyte levels; fill with distilled water if needed, usually just enough to cover the plates.
    • Brakes’ hydraulic systems – Use test strips to check the fluid level and its moisture content. Periodic flushing is required to maintain your safety, approximately every three years or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first. Fluid does break down and can attract moisture over time from the heat generated by braking. A noticeable change in efficiency and required pedal force will occur. More importantly, the calipers and the ABS systems’ control module could be damaged, causing a very expensive repair.
    • Air systems: Drain ping/storage tanks completely every month to remove moisture. Some units have a replaceable desiccant filter that is easy to overlook but is extremely vital to brakes and suspension.
    • Pads, calipers, rotors, or drums: Check for usable life left, cracking, or glaze and make sure they all operate properly.
    • Brake lines: Check for severe rust on metal lines. Watch out for cracks or weeping on flexible lines.
    • Grease/Lubrication: Climb underneath your coach and count every zerk fitting you can find. Look at all suspension components; steering linkage, including the connection to the steering wheel; driveshaft; universal joints; transmission; clutch shafts; and tag axle. Keep this number (I have counted as many as 43) in your notes with the owners manuals. After a lube, oil, and filter service is performed, ask how many grease zerks they serviced. If it does not match your number, ask why. Then check one that is hard to find for proof of new grease! You would be amazed at how many dry ones I encounter. Some motors have grease zerks on the cooling fan assembly. Do not forget about sliders, rollers, or bearings on racks (generator, cargo, steps, propane tanks, batteries, etc.).
    • Hydraulic Slideouts And Leveling: Fill the oil level with the proper type oil and look for leaks.
    • Rear End/Differential: Refer to the coach’s chassis maintenance schedule; however, if a schedule is not available, change the fluid every 100,000 miles. Check the vent tube for blockage. Check the universal joints when greasing and replace if any looseness is detected.
    • Steering: Check fluid; change when suggested (usually three to five years).
    • Suspension: Springs, control arms, and sway bars all have bushings that can wear out. Shocks that have oil stains on them or more than 50,000 miles need to be replaced.
    • Tag Axle: Check wheel bearings for adjustment and lubrication.
    • Tires: Look for dry rot, bulges, cracking, and correct pressure. Stay away from tire dressings that make them shiny, as they tend to have silicone or petroleum-based ingredients that can accelerate tire deterioration. It’s probably best to simply wash the tires with soap and water, and rinse them thoroughly afterward.
    • Transmission: Check the fluid and filter; refer to the coach’s chassis maintenance schedule. If a schedule is not available, change at 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

    Electrical

     

    • Generator: Wash with a cleaner such as Mean Green and low-pressure water; air dry before using. Change air and fuel filters; some models have filters or screens on cooling air/compartment inlets. Gasoline types should be run once every five to six weeks under medium load, have their fuel system drained, or have Sta-Bil added to the fuel (make sure it’s in the carburetor before shutting down the gen set). Run diesel generators at least every two to three months. Warm them up, operate under a load for 10 to 15 minutes, and cool down for another three to five minutes before shutting off. This keeps the fuel fresh, lubricates the parts, and keeps the generator ready for emergencies.
    • Lights: Check all interior and exterior lights on all vehicles (towable included).
    • Shore Power Cord: Clean and wipe down with silicone spray or a product such as 303 Aerospace Protectant (do not use anything slick on coaches equipped with a cord reel).

    Engine And Compartment

     

    • Lube, Oil, And Filter: This should be a no-brainer, so remember the time intervals also; oil is your engine’s lifeblood. Follow change intervals to a tee. Stay with quality name-brand oil and filters, especially on diesel engines when new. Many diesel motors require break-in valve and injector adjustments. According to Caterpillar, Cummins, and Detroit Diesel, this first adjustment is very critical.
    • Air Conditioner: Check pressure and operation of the dash air conditioner before the season.
    • Hoses: Look for rub marks, bulges, cracks, or weeping. Secure hose clamps.
    • Serpentine/Fan Belts: Check for cracking or frayed cords. They should be changed every five to eight years/50,000 to 125,000 miles.
    • Engine Cooling/Radiators – Antifreeze: Fill and have the pH level checked. Change every three to five years/65,000 to 100,000 miles. Use only the antifreeze approved for your engine; there are differences. Diesel owners: It is vital to check the pH level and appropriate buffers.
    • Fins/fan: Carefully check, clean, and straighten cooling fins. If the fan’s blades are bent or damaged, replace the fan with a new one.
    • Filters: They are installed in places you never thought of: air, fuel, water separator, cabin, antifreeze, radiator pre-filters/screens, air compressor, crankcase.

    Exterior

    • Air Conditioner: Remove the cover of the roof air conditioner; check for mud dauber nests; clean the fins and fans of leaves, sticks, moss, and nests. You will save energy and help the unit last longer.
    • Seams: Check all seams for faulty caulk, especially the roof around antenna mounts, skylights, ladder, and vents.
    • Furnace: Remove the cover and clean. Replace filters if applicable (e.g., Aqua-Hot). Look out for mice and their nests.
    • Horns: Do they work?
    • Refrigerator Covers: Remove the outer cover and vacuum clean. Check for spiders, as they love this area. Find the black drain tube, check for obstructions, and route to drain outside of the cover.
    • Roof Maintenance: Clean, look for, and repair defects. Apply proper protection.
    • Slideout Seals: Clean and lubricate every six to 12 months.
    • Storage And Entrance Doors: Clean and lubricate seals, lifting mechanism, latches, and hinges.
    • Water Heater: Remove the bottom plug and drain the heater. Replace the anode rod. Clean the propane-heating tube. Remove the plug-in 12-volt connector and reconnect (cleans contacts).
    • Windshield Wipers: Check and replace. Better to do this now before you’re caught in a big rainstorm. Refill the washer fluid reservoir.

    Interior

    • Air Conditioner: Clean or replace filters monthly. Carefully clean/vacuum cooling fins.
    • Detectors: Change batteries in smoke, carbon monoxide, and LP-gas detectors.
    • Furnace: Remove the covers and vacuum the area clean.
    • Water Systems: Check the under-counter and ice-maker filters and replace if necessary.
    • Windshield: Clean the inside as well as the outside. Remember how hard it was to see through when driving into the sun on your last trip?

    Even though this list may appear overwhelming, the items are not all due at once. Mileage, hours, and/or age will dictate when attention is required throughout the year and life cycle of your RV.

    Consult this checklist when searching for a used RV. Finding one with documented PM schedules included generally indicates the entire rig was properly maintained. If you purchase one with a questionable service record, either you’ll become handy at repairs or spend a lot of money for someone who is.

    If purchasing an older RV with low mileage, or if you let yours sit unused for extended periods, think about this: mechanical items are designed for use on a regular basis. Using them as they were intended to be used generally makes them last longer, with fewer problems, than those you don’t use regularly.

    Think about our own bodies. When we exercise regularly, we feel better, move around easier, are more alert, and are less prone to injuries and arthritis. Usually we spend less on health care as a result. If we stop exercising, we gain weight, slow down, and acquire more aches and pains; medical expenses and time spent at the doctor rises dramatically. The same thing happens with your RV. This can become a vicious cycle.

    Stop exercising your RV and the seals in the motor, rear, and steering dry out and shrink because oil drains off them. Oil drains off motor parts, causing rust and stuck valves. Additives in the oil break down even with age, allowing suspended acids and damaging particles to settle on critical parts. Tires will dry rot and crack, because they depend upon movement to excrete protective agents to block this. Transmission internals can rust and clutch packs go dry. Brakes can rust or seize up, lock up a wheel, or generate enough heat from dragging to burn out a wheel bearing. Brake, fuel, and air lines can rust through from condensation in the storage area. Critters and insects love to make nests in stationary RVs.

    You’ve probably heard some RVers say, “Hey, I start mine and let it idle once a month.” Just starting the motor and letting it idle can do more damage than good, but that’s for another time and article.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: RV Buying Tips

    FMCA Tech Tip: RV Buying Tips

    Buying an RV typically is not always a simple, stress-free experience. After all, it requires a substantial outlay of discretionary funds. During the buying process it’s not uncommon for prospective first-time buyers to seek advice from their family, friends, or even FMCA (Family Motor Coach Association) members. More seasoned RV owners also may want information about how to make the process go more smoothly, and our friends at FMCA are here to help these buyers, too.

    They are providing us with a thought-provoking, logical pathway to the ultimate joy of owning and traveling in an RV. Check out their tips below.

    Budget

    The first thing to consider: How much can you afford?

    Most established dealers can assist with this, but three major items must be addressed.
    Down payment. If there is no trade-in vehicle, you’ll have to determine how much cash is needed for a down payment. Even if you have a vehicle to trade, it’s likely some cash outlay will be necessary.
    Monthly operating expenses. Factor in the monthly payment (if you are financing), as well as, the cost of insurance, fuel, outfitting, storage requirements, etc. Preventive maintenance. This is the cost of maintaining the RV’s major systems in order to enjoy trouble-free travel.

    It’s also a good idea to establish an “RV maintenance savings plan” where you are regularly depositing money into a dedicated savings account. Every month, try to deposit the cost of at least one retail labor hour at a local RV service facility. Over the course of a year, that will buy at least 12 of the 20 to 24 annual shop hours that typically are required to keep a motorhome or RV on the road.
    Family Needs

    Obviously, a family of five needs more sleeping accommodations than a traveling retired couple. In addition to sleeping arrangements, consider how much storage space is required for the family’s camping gear and each individual’s hobby interests. For example, a family member who is a gourmet chef will need a fancier galley than someone who doesn’t cook. Carefully determine the family requirements beyond the aesthetic features you might have in mind.

    Type Of RV

    After reconciling the budget and family needs, next consider the type of RV you’d like to have. RV categories include Type A, Type C, or Type B motorhomes, Fifth Wheels, and Travel Trailers. If you are bringing some equipment like ATVs or golf carts along, Toy Haulers is another available option. A good place to start researching the types of RVs is on RV Trader. 

    Another consideration: If driving/towing duties will be shared, will everyone be comfortable behind the wheel? Regardless of the type of RV chosen, new buyers will require some type of RV driving instruction.

    Code Requirements

    Be sure the RV under scrutiny is built to code, specifically to National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 1192, which applies to recreation vehicles. Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) has adopted NFPA 1192. All motorhome manufacturers that are members of RVIA build to that standard.

    This code has nothing to do with the quality of workmanship; rather, it governs the general fire and life safety requirements for the RV’s fuel systems, including the propane system, the plumbing systems, as well as the interior finish, the textile materials, the means of escape, fire detection equipment, and chassis requirements. For more information about NFPA 1192, click here.

    Construction Variances

    Look closely at how an RV is constructed. Techniques vary; all have their pros and cons. Material costs, build times, weight specifications, etc., all factor into the differences. Be sure the construction method is compatible with how the RV will be used. For example, if you will use it for winter skiing excursions, the R-factor of the insulation used is important to know and compare. How thick are the walls, floor, and roof? How secure is the weatherproofing? Are the storage bays heated?

    Floor Plan Compatibility

    A suitable floor plan involves more than a seat-belted traveling position for motorized RVs and a sleeping berth for each person. Ask yourself: Is everything exactly where I’d like it to be? Ensure that the floor plan truly works for you, the family, and the activities you have in mind. Do occupants have access to the bathroom with all the slideouts retracted? Is that an important consideration? Can the refrigerator be opened while in travel mode, or is it blocked by a closed slideout? Does it even matter? Is there enough wardrobe space?

    Don’t just “settle” on an RV purchase because that’s all the dealer had in stock. It’s amazing how many different, ingeniously designed floor plans exist at every length of each type of RV. Be sure the one you choose has the floor plan that works for you, not against you.

    Size/Weight/Length

    In most cases, as the floor plan requirements grow, so does the length of the RV, too. It’s helpful to keep in mind that RV’s can range up to 45 feet long, and the overall length stretches beyond that if you tow a car or truck. Some campgrounds, RV storage facilities, repair shops, and even some roads and local municipalities limit the overall length of the motoring configuration. Be sure you will not be limited by weight or length in the areas in which you plan to travel.

    Overall height is also important. The Internet teems with videos of RVers proving they did not know (or forgot) just how tall their RV was. If this is overlooked, low overpasses, railway bridges, gas station canopies, and drive-throughs of all types can be hazardous to the components on an RV’s roof.

    And don’t forget possible width restrictions. RVs with deep, opposing slideouts may be limited in some of the tighter spaces in older campgrounds. This is not always a dealbreaker, but it is something to consider if you will spend significant time in confined locations.

    Brand Integrity

    It’s always nice to get opinions from owners of the particular brand and model you are considering. Many FMCA chapters are focused on one manufacturer or brand; members typically enjoy sharing their wisdom with others. Also, many brands have official owners groups or clubs. Opinions are freely expressed on their online forums. But, remember, just because someone dislikes a particular brand does not mean all owners share that opinion.

    Your research also should include a visit to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration website. Search for recalls regarding a particular brand, especially when buying a preowned RV.

    Keep in mind that a manufacturer or brand should not be condemned just because a recall was issued. “Many recalls have been attributed to inaccurate labels, rather than to mechanical safety defects,” said Walter Cannon, executive director of the RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF), the leading voice of safety advocacy for the RV industry. But it is important that the manufacturer or selling dealer address all actionable items outlined in a recall.

    Check, too, whether an RV manufacturer posts online documentation for the brand and model you are contemplating. Online owners manuals, service literature, tech bulletins, and brochures will offer some insight into specific models. Does the manufacturer have an e-newsletter you can subscribe to? It’s not so much for pre-purchase research, but once you own the coach, regular manufacturer communications are a good indication of how the company views its customers.

    Another consideration, although not a deal maker or breaker on its own: Does an RV retain some value when it’s time to trade up or down?

    Availability

    The next step is to find the particular RV you’ve selected with the floor plan you want. If your local dealer carries the brand, but the specific floor plan and model you want is out of stock, no doubt it can be ordered. Establish a good relationship with your local dealer and purchase from there, even if the coach is available immediately from a distant dealer you found online. So, why turn away from a good deal you found online at a dealer that is a few states away? Read on.

    Buy Local

    If, in your quest to save a few bucks, you bought from a faraway dealership, it may be challenging to get in for service in a timely manner. And, remember, this extends beyond the warranty period. Even retail repairs and regular maintenance appointments may be granted to existing customers first. RV owners who purchased from a dealer will generally have priority over owners who bought a coach elsewhere. It’s true even if those owners live in the same town.

    Dealer Reputation

    Having a good relationship with a local dealer does not eliminate the need to properly evaluate the dealer beforehand.

    Do your research and get to know the dealership and sales staff. A good salesperson can be instrumental in ensuring you end up with the right RV and also can become a helpful ally after the sale. Avoid the high pressure of buying immediately. Even after you have settled all the issues, decided on a particular RV, and are ready to pull the trigger, sleep on it one more night.

    Get to know the service staff, too. Do they employ certified or master-certified technicians in the shop? Many FMCA RV owners perform much of their own preventive maintenance. Still, for a variety of reasons, many tasks must be performed by professionals. Quality dealerships will invest in technician education and certification. Look for the certified technician patch on the work uniform.

    Getting to know a local dealership may also provide a glimpse of how important customer service is to that organization. The better dealerships look beyond the initial sale and become your personal advocate for future purchases and ongoing technical support.

    RV Shows

    Don’t overlook the value that can be found at events such as FMCA International Conventions. Many dealers offer “show specials” whereby attendees can find great deals on the display RVs. RV shows, rallies, conventions, and other gatherings happen somewhere just about every weekend. At smaller shows, some dealers may even sell pre owned vehicles. Pre-delivery inspection of those coaches usually has been completed, and they are ready to go. Look for last-day markdowns. Shows sometimes have manufacturers’ representatives on hand and that’s a good time to ask more in-depth questions.

    Consumer Education

    Before deciding on a purchase, prospective owners also can gain a huge advantage over less-informed, impulse buyers by attending seminars such as the RV Basics workshop offered by FMCA Academy. More than 100 people at each event invest in their RV futures at FMCA International Conventions. Those who have not yet purchased their first RV gain tremendous insight and guidance, thereby reducing the risk of an unhappy buying experience.

    Take your time. Never make a snap buying decision. Do the homework. And most importantly, have some fun doing it. The journey to RV ownership can be enjoyed almost as much as the trips you’ll take in that new purchase. Remember, RVing is more than a hobby; it’s a lifestyle!

    Comparison Shopping

    All RVs are not created equal. The quality of components varies within each RV type, as well as, among manufacturers and brands. Likewise, differences exist in the quality of design and construction. That’s not necessarily a negative, since it results in a range of price points and allows many people to get into RVing at some level.

    RVs that appear similar may fall within the same price range. Comparing those RVs from a technical point of view, rather than simply on aesthetics, can reveal discrepancies that perhaps can lead to better buying decisions. Examples of such technical comparisons follow.

    Access To Components

    When buying an RV, consider the ease of access to parts and pieces that require periodic inspection and maintenance. For instance, is it necessary to partially disassemble the coach to find and reach the fresh-water filter/strainer attached to the water pump? That strainer needs simple, periodic maintenance. When winterizing, is it difficult to reach the low-point drain valves or the water heater bypass valves?

    Must you be a flexible gymnast to contort yourself into position to get to the circuit breaker panel board? And how easy is it to replace a fuse in the 12-volt-DC battery system? Can you even find the fuse block?

    The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires a certain number of receptacles on particular circuits. Are the receptacles located where you need them in the motorhome?

    Design Pitfalls

    As you compare RVs, look at the physical separation between propane appliances. In some cases, installing a forced-air furnace directly below an absorption refrigerator is not as good as having lateral separation between those two appliances. The same can be said when a gas water heater is installed directly below the fridge.

    Here’s why: For an absorption refrigerator to cool properly, a draft of cool air is drawn in from its lower exterior vent and then passes up through the rear of the cooling unit and exits out the roof vent or a separate, upper side vent. It is vital to keep the back of the refrigerator as cool as possible so that the convection airflow properly evacuates the heat generated by the refrigerator’s energy source and heat transferred from the food inside. A high heat-producing appliance installed directly below the point where the refrigerator draws in this cool air minimizes its effectiveness and can lead to operational problems.

    Cargo Weight Limitations

    The RV occupant and cargo carrying capacity (OCCC) listed on the required weight label shows the maximum number of pounds (or kilograms) the RV can carry, regardless of how much space is available.

    For more information about RV weights, including the federal weight label (and the older RVIA labels), visit the RVSEF website.

    Remember, All RVs are not created technically equal. So when buying an RV, look beyond the nice furnishings, storage space, and window treatments to see how well thought out the floor plan really is. And do not despair; the perfect RV for you and your family is out there. Enjoy the journey; enjoy the destination!

  • Vintage Trailer & RV Restoration Hazards

    Vintage Trailer & RV Restoration Hazards

    Traveling in an RV or with a travel trailer can be a great experience. It’s a great way to cover a lot of ground and have a comfortable place to stay after hiking, getting out on the lake, or just enjoying the serenity of your campsite.

    Brand new RVs and travel trailers can cost a fortune, and can depreciate quickly. This is why many travel and camping enthusiasts are instead restoring old RVs and camper trailers to enjoy their ventures. Not only do vintage RVs and travel trailers often cost a fraction of the price, they’re also packed with charm and style. In addition, restoring old campers is an excellent way to customize it with an interior of your choice. Before you get started on your restoration, though, there are some hazards to consider.

    Tires, Bearings, Brakes, and Driveline

    When buying an older RV or camper trailer you should always bring someone along who can inspect the mechanical components. For RVs, this is especially important since you’re buying a vehicle, not just a camper. You should always inspect the frame, tires, axles, and bearings. It’s pertinent to make sure the tires and bearings are in good shape before moving the trailer or RV very far.

    Tires & Bearings

    If grease seals have failed, bearings can overheat in a matter of minutes, causing your tires to stop rotating. This shouldn’t need an explanation, but once a tire wears unevenly they must be changed. Driving on a worn tire could lead to a blowout. If they’ve sat in the same place for an extended period of time, tires can easily succumb to dry rot creating unsafe driving conditions that could be catastrophic at highway speeds.

    Brakes & Driveline

    The brakes and driveline should be inspected prior to purchase. For RVs, U-joints should be inspected and replaced if any play is found. U-joint failure can compromise the driveshaft and leave you stranded. If brakes are worn or not in working order, a heavy RV can be very dangerous to drive. Travel trailers weighing more than 3500 lbs are often equipped with drum brakes that should be inspected as well. Brake pads and linings were often made with asbestos, and precautions should be taken if you plan to perform the work yourself. Transmission gaskets and clutch plates were made with asbestos as well. If your RV requires a new clutch or brakes, it may be best to leave it to a professional if the RV or trailer was made before the 1980s.

    Many automotive parts and building materials utilized asbestos before the partial ban in 1987 because it was inexpensive, heat resistant, and strong. When airborne, asbestos containing dust can become trapped in the linings of the lungs, causing pleural mesothelioma. Too often, the presence of asbestos in older vehicles is overlooked before undergoing a restoration process. Exposure to asbestos should not be taken lightly as a staggering 12,000-15,000 people die from asbestos-related diseases each year in the United States.

    Interior Restoration

    The interior restoration of vintage travel trailers and RVs is the most exciting part of bringing an old camper back to life. Redoing the interior allows you to customize the space any way you’d like and it also gives you the opportunity to check for water damage and leaks as well as install better insulation. This is also a good time to inspect the electrical system and components, propane hoses, and plumbing. Ensuring these items are in usable condition and updating insulation for a higher R-value will make your camping experience more comfortable and enjoyable.

    The Demolition

    Before tearing out the old interior of your vintage RV or camper trailer, you should be aware that some of these parts could contain asbestos. Commonly used in vinyl tile and adhesives to add strength, these items should be removed with caution. If possible, you can leave vinyl tile in place and go over top of the material with your new flooring or backsplash. However, on some campers, the subfloor itself may need to be replaced or you may want to redo the insulation underneath.

    If you do remove the vinyl tile and its adhesive, you should wear a respirator that fits well, a dust mask from the hardware store won’t protect you against exposure. You should also wear a Tyvek suit or clothing that can be hosed down or discarded with the tiling. Remove the clothing immediately after leaving the demo area. Don’t go inside before thoroughly washing your hands and showering. There are many resources available on how to safely remove asbestos, but if you don’t have the capabilities to do so, you may want to hire a professional for the demolition.

    Old insulation could also pose a threat, as loose-fill insulation of times past often contained asbestos. Most of the time, however, travel trailers and RVs used a batt style insulation instead of loose-fill. You should still proceed cautiously and inspect the insulation for asbestos contamination. If you’re not sure how to identify asbestos, there are many abatement professionals that will test materials that have the potential of containing asbestos.

    Inspecting Old Components

    Now that you’ve demoed the walls, floor, and safely removed old insulation, it’s imperative that you inspect all electrical lines, gas hoses, and plumbing. If you’re not familiar with what these components should look like, this is another opportunity to hire a professional. Many DIY’s don’t want to pay the professional price, but doing so for electrical, plumbing, and gas can save you countless hours, and eliminate the potential for serious failures down the road.

    If propane or plumbing lines have become dry rotted or have been tampered with by animals while sitting, a tiny leak could become disastrous. Damaged plumbing lines could ruin all the hard work you put into redoing the interior, especially if that leak is in a line for grey or black water. All plumbing hoses and holding tanks should be thoroughly inspected and replaced if damaged. Often, a do-it-yourselfer can undertake minor plumbing. Propane repairs, however, should be performed by a professional, as a propane leak can lead to a buildup of gas in your camper. Not only can propane cause serious harm to the body if inhaled, it can also lead to an explosion. A propane leak detector should be installed as low as possible, as propane is heavier than air.

    Electrical wiring and components should also be inspected. Electrical faults are one of the main causes of fires in camper trailers and RVs. Electrical wiring can become dry and brittle with age, causing the wire insulation to crack—exposing bare metal. Should two bare wires come into contact with one another, a spark can occur and potentially ignite a fire. Electrical systems should be inspected and installed by a professional as well. This can save you wasted time and provide peace of mind that you don’t have an unknown fire hazard.

     

    Restoring a vintage camper trailer or RV can be rewarding in many ways. It will certainly bring years of enjoyment and adventure. It can also help you to build or hone in skills that you’ll find useful for many other projects. With all the benefits it can provide, you should never take shortcuts or compromise your safety in the process. As eager as you’ll be to get out on the open road, it’s vital to tackle every step with diligence and thorough knowledge so that you won’t be left stranded, injured, or unhealthy along your journey.

    Ready to find a vintage RV of your own? Start your search on RV Trader today.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: RV Battery Types

    FMCA Tech Tip: RV Battery Types

    Our friends at FMCA are breaking down the different types of batteries for an RV. Check them out below.

    Options include lead-acid and lithium-ion, as well as a choice between 6-volt and 12-volt. The 12-volt-DC electrical system is one of the primary lifelines of an RV. The source of that power can involve some combination of generator, shore power, solar energy, and batteries, as well as the converter and the inverter/charger. Here, our focus is batteries, and the possible choices.

    If your RV usually is connected to grid power, you aren’t as dependent on the house battery bank; the primary concerns are proper battery maintenance and avoiding overcharging. However, when you are boondocking, or dry camping, you rely heavily on the batteries’ ability to deliver a steady supply of 12-volt power. Historically, the go-to battery for RV use has been the flooded lead-acid battery, which is the oldest type of rechargeable battery, invented in 1859. These are the batteries in automobiles, but for RV house use they have larger plates than “starting” batteries, to facilitate deep cycling. While lead-acid batteries haven’t changed much in more than 100 years, newer technologies have introduced other lead-acid batteries to the market, including gel-cells and absorbed glass mat (AGM); both are of a type called valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA). And recently, lithium-ion (Li-ion or Li+) technology was introduced. So, which type of battery should you choose for your home on wheels? Also, should you buy 6-volt or 12-volt? Each battery type has its advantages, disadvantages, price range, and requirements. For instance, there are different charging requirements that your existing converter or inverter/charger may not be able to accommodate. So, while you can keep the batteries charged, you run the risk of overcharging or damaging them, or reducing the batteries’ life.

    Flooded Lead-Acid

    These are still the most common and inexpensive batteries for RV use. Although they can be constructed differently, all batteries of this type consist of lead plates (electrodes) suspended in electrolyte, which is water-based sulphuric acid. Almost all RVs currently in use can accommodate flooded batteries without modification to the charging system. An overview of flooded batteries: *They are available in serviceable or maintenance-free versions. The only difference is that the latter lack caps that allow access to the electrolyte. For serviceable batteries, the electrolyte must be monitored periodically for level and condition. *While all batteries should be kept clean, flooded batteries require regular cleaning of the terminals, posts, straps, and surrounding area to remove corrosive battery acid, which builds up regularly because of the water-based acid. Such batteries also release hydrogen, especially while being charged. *Because the acid is suspended in water, there is a risk of acid damage or injury if a flooded battery leaks, falls over, gets cracked, or is otherwise damaged. *Discharging a deep-cycle flooded battery to less than 50 percent charge can limit battery life. So, such batteries are capable of only about half of their listed amp-hour capacity. *Sulfation — lead sulfate crystals settling on the battery plates — occurs in flooded cells. Reversible sulfation is a normal part of the chemical reaction, but permanent sulfation reduces battery efficiency, as well as life and charge capability. Excessive sulfation is the primary cause of premature failure of flooded lead-acid batteries.

    Gel-Cell

    This is the next step in the evolution of batteries. Silica dust is added to the electrolyte of these batteries to create a thick gel. Because the electrolyte is much more viscous, it cannot readily leak or spill. Gel-cell batteries have more stringent charging requirements than AGM batteries. Since the advent of AGM, gel-cell batteries have become rare in RVs.

    Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)

    These batteries go one step further than gel by absorbing the electrolyte into fine fiberglass pads. The pads can be flat, resulting in standard lead-acid battery size and shape, or they can be rolled into cylinders for a smaller battery footprint. Since the electrolyte of AGM batteries is fully absorbed into mats, the batteries are leak-proof and spill-proof, short of major damage to the battery casing. AGM batteries are not subject to the same charging restrictions as gel batteries, so, generally, standard RV charging equipment can be used without modification. Some high-end converters and inverter/chargers have charge settings for AGM batteries, which have charging curves that differ slightly from those of flooded batteries. As with gel batteries, external corrosion is nonexistent with AGM batteries. In addition, gel and AGM batteries are much less prone to sulfation. And internal resistance is much lower in AGM batteries than in flooded cells, so AGM charging time is much shorter.

    Lithium-Ion

    Although lithium-ion (Li-ion or Li+) battery technology has been around since the 1980s, historically it has been used in smaller consumer devices such as cell phones and laptop computers. With recent advances, the batteries now can work in larger applications such as RVs and standby power plants. They are a marked departure from their lead-acid counterparts. Comparing the energy density between lithium-ion and lead-acid batteries reveals stark differences. A lead-acid battery can store about 25 watt-hours per kilogram of battery, whereas a lithium-ion battery can store 100 to 265 watt-hours per kilogram. This results in a 50 percent to 70 percent weight savings per amp-hour over a lead-acid battery of the same size. Lithium-ion batteries also have absolutely no discharge memory, so they are almost 100 percent efficient and can be recharged from completely dead in as little as one hour, depending on the charging technology and battery. This means they can deliver their full rated capacity. The built-in electronics automatically regulate the charging, and chargers designed specifically for lithium-ion batteries are highly recommended. Using a “general” charger could reduce the battery life, but this may not be noticeable by the user. It is important to understand the administrative functions that a particular battery management system controls, as not all battery circuitry is the same. Lithium-ion batteries require an onboard control circuit; therefore, the cost compared to lead-acid batteries is very high. However, such costs are defrayed when considering battery life, number of charges possible, and the energy output. (Thanks to Avanti Lalwani of Briter Products for assisting with lithium-ion specifics.)

    6-Volt Or 12-Volt Batteries?

    The key factor in this choice is current capacity. Two 6-volt batteries must be connected in series in order to achieve 12 volts, whereas two 12-volt batteries must be connected in parallel to maintain 12 volts. In the series configuration, the voltage doubles (6 volts + 6 volts = 12 volts), but the current stays the same. In the parallel scenario, the voltage stays the same, but the current doubles.

    One major reason to use 6-volt batteries is to get more current capacity (measured in amp-hours), although that increase may be nominal. The question may arise: If current capacity doubles with two 12-volt batteries configured in parallel, why opt for 6-volt batteries wired in series? The answer: Because of denser plates in a 6-volt battery, the current capacity is more than double that of a single 12-volt battery. Therefore, by installing two 6-volt batteries in place of one 12-volt battery, the mathematical result is a higher current capacity.

    The same is true if we double or triple the battery bank. Four 6-volt batteries (wired in a series/parallel configuration) provide more current capacity than two 12-volt batteries, etc. However, installing 6-volt batteries comes at the cost of extra weight and space requirements. Six-volt batteries also may be more expensive than 12-volt batteries. Here is my general advice:
    *If you do a lot of boondocking but don’t want to spend the money on lithium-ion batteries, install as many batteries as you can make room for in your RV. I also recommend using 6-volt batteries. While you will have space for only half the number of batteries in terms of equivalent voltage, you will gain more than twice the current capacity.

    *If money is not a concern, go with lithium-ion. You will have more battery per square foot, and much more current capacity, as these batteries are virtually 100 percent efficient. You also will be able to charge your battery bank very quickly, which is important when dry camping. And you will save significant weight, if this is important to you. Lithium-ion is the battery technology of the future, and I predict the price of these batteries may drop in the next few years. However, the high cost is the only downside, and that is largely offset by their high efficiency and long life. The question of which type of RV batteries to use remains a topic of debate in RV circles. RVers should collect information such as that provided in this article and consider their individual needs in order to make an educated decision.

  • Mistakes to Avoid When Financing An RV

    Mistakes to Avoid When Financing An RV

    So, you’re ready to take the plunge into RV life? We’re excited to welcome you to the club – but before you dive head-first into the world of RVing, you’ll need to make sure you’re actually financially ready to make the big purchase. We’ve compiled a quick list of mistakes you should avoid making to make sure you’re ready to finance an RV when the time comes.

    Not Having a Budget

    Budgeting is a word no one likes to hear, but when buying a large purchase like an RV, it’s definitely something you need to consider. It’s fun to look at luxury Class A RVs, but if that type of unit isn’t in your budget then it’s time to move on to more realistic options. We encourage you to use online sites like RV Trader to research and compare the pricing of the types of units you’re interested in. Remember, it’s always important to buy within your means so you don’t regret your purchase down the road.

    Failure to Consider Other Costs

    When planning your overall budget, you’ll also need to account for other costs rather than just the RV itself. Additional costs associated with an RV can include fuel, taxes, insurance, maintenance, and more. You’ll want to create a spreadsheet with all of the expenses that your new RV could include and then add those to your other monthly expenditures like your mortgage payment, car payment, utilities, food, etc. After adding up all of these expenses, ask yourself if you can afford an RV loan on top of those recurring payments.

    Forgetting About Your Credit Score

    As with any loan, you’ll need to make sure your credit is in good standing and that you have enough credit history to qualify for an RV loan. You can request a free copy of your credit report from each of three major credit reporting agencies – Equifax®, Experian®, and TransUnion®. If your credit score needs some work, that could slow down the process of getting a loan. To build your credit score, you’ll need to make sure you’re paying your bills on time and that you’re working to eliminate any outstanding credit card debt.

    Not Saving For a Downpayment

    Once you see what a potential downpayment might look like for the unit you’re interested in, you’ll need to start saving. For some, this can take weeks, months, or even years depending on the amount required. For most of us, it’s unlikely that we will have those funds on hand at any given time so you’ll want to start planning well in advance. Keep in mind that the more you put down, the more likely you are to receive a lower interest rate.

    Avoiding Talking to a Lender

    Once you feel like you’re in a good place to consider buying an RV, you’ll want to reach out to a lender or have the dealership you’re working with reach out to various lenders – the option is up to you. Unless you’re paying cash, you’ll need to consult with a lender at some point in the buying process. There are various types of places to obtain a loan like credit unions, banks, RV dealerships, and online lenders. It’s okay to shop around to find the best rate and loan options for you and we encourage you to do so. Remember, lenders are here to help you and guide you through the buying process, so you can reach out to them at any stage of the financing process and lean on their expertise.

    The initial financing process might seem daunting, but it really doesn’t have to be if you avoid these mistakes. Ready to start the buying process? Check out some of our most recent listings on RV Trader.

  • RV Renovations: Updating RV Light Fixtures

    RV Renovations: Updating RV Light Fixtures

    When renovating your RV interior, there are so many projects that you can tackle to update and revamp your space. And considering most of us have a bit of extra time on our hands, now is a great time to tackle any renovations or updates you’ve been wanting to make. Each of these projects ranges in difficulty, with some being fairly easy and others being trickier. As you begin to complete each task, your RV will start to look more and more modern over time. If you want your RV to look truly modern and like a traditional home, it could be a great idea to replace your current light fixtures with newer ones.
    Many RV light fixtures are made of plastic and tend to look cheap and outdated. Most are covered in cloudy globes, tacky patterns, and brassy metal colors. Replacing these with chic, modern fixtures will transform the entire look of your space and bring it into the current era. Although replacing your lighting sounds like a difficult project, it is totally possible to do yourself if you plan ahead, move slowly and carefully, and follow this simple set of instructions.

     
    Disclaimer: Before we begin, please note that we are not electricians, and any electrical work you complete yourself should always be examined by a professional before repeated use. All electrical projects are considered dangerous and should be handled and completed with care. If you are not comfortable with tackling this project yourself, an electrical contractor could easily accomplish this for you. Now that you know the risks, let’s dive in.


    1. Gather your materials

    This tutorial assumes that your lighting is wired for DC power, which is the case for almost all RVs. Finding DC light fixtures that look modern and cost a reasonable price tends to be difficult. For this reason, many RVers purchase and install AC light fixtures that are made for traditional homes. This requires some additional wiring but is totally doable.

    When collecting your materials, purchase your favorite AC light fixtures in whichever style you are decorating your RV. Then, purchase DC light bulbs that will fit those fixtures. These can be found in a variety of home goods stores, online RV catalogs, or even on Amazon. Once you have your materials, you are ready to begin.

    2. Disconnect your house batteries and all other power sources

    Start by disconnecting your house batteries that power your RV and anything else that connects it to power. Unplug from shore power, and double-check that nothing is switched on. This step is absolutely essential to keep you safe while you are completing this project.


    3. Remove the existing DC light fixture that you will be replacing

    RV light fixtures are typically mounted with a couple of screws, so removing your old fixtures with a screwdriver should be fairly simple. Once you have unscrewed them, they will likely just be hanging on by their wiring.
    Credit: DIY Network

    4. Remove any fittings on the DC lines that were connected to the old fixture

    Next, you will need to disconnect the old light fixture. Disconnect all the lines, and remove any fittings that were part of the old fixture. This is important in preparing to install the new fixtures.
    Credit: John Moore Services

    5. Strip back the wire insulation

    Using a sharp tool, strip back the insulation on the wiring that will connect your new light fixtures. This is necessary to connect the new fixtures to your current RV electrical system.

    6. Connect the lighting

    Next, you will need to connect the positive and negative DC lines to the white and black “AC” lines of the new fixture using whatever fittings you like. This is best completed using wire nuts. The DC socket light bulbs only tend to work when wired one way, contrary to simpler DC bulbs, due to their transformer. Therefore, it is a good idea to connect everything, then turn the power back on and check that the bulb is lighting before fully installing the new fixtures.

    Credit: @wheres.mal.now

    7. Add on/off switches

    This is an optional step, but completing it will make your lighting situation much simpler. Many older DC light fixtures have on/off switches built into them. The new AC fixtures may not have on/off switches, so it is a good idea to retrofit switches into them. You can accomplish this by removing the switches from the old DC fixtures and installing those in the AC fixtures.

    If reusing your old switches is not possible in your situation, you should be able to pick up small, simple switches at your local hardware store. These newer switches will just need to be installed inline on one side of the power feed. Typically, the negative line is used. Simply wire the negative line through the new switch, and you will have an on/off feature for your new light fixture.

    8. Finish mounting the new fixture

    Once your new lights are wired in, the hard part is over. It is imperative that you double-check that the power is properly connected and the switches are in good working order before moving on to install the light fixtures. Since your new light fixtures are likely very different from your old ones, you may need to drill new holes to affix them to their new positions. If the new fixtures do not cover over the holes from the old fixtures, you may need to fill in the old holes with putty, and sand and paint over them. This step will look different for everyone, so just be sure your new lighting is properly mounting before moving on to your final steps.
    Credit: @wheres.mal.now

    9. Install the DC bulb and enjoy!

    Once your lighting is hardwired and installed, all that’s left is to install your new DC light bulb. Make sure the new bulb is screwed in tightly, and then flip your power back on, and turn on your lights. Then, sit back and admire your hard work and your newly-modernized RV lighting.

    Installing new lighting fixtures in your RV is fairly simple if you have any sort of prior electrical experience. Even without prior experience, beginners should be able to complete this project by closely following these steps. Again, do not attempt this if you are not confident in your abilities, as any electrical professional could easily complete this if you gather the correct tools tools for them. Once your new lighting is installed, you are ready to move on to the next project: making over your cab area. Stay tuned for the next update!

     
    Have you updated your RV interior’s light fixtures? What process and methods did you use? Feel free to share in the comments below!
  • Tips for Buying an RV Online

    Tips for Buying an RV Online

    COVID-19 has the majority of the country staying at home. If you had been interested in buying an RV, the quarantine might have put a damper on your plans – but in today’s world, it really doesn’t have to. With all of the technology we have access to, buying an RV is still possible with minimal in-person contact. So, are you still looking to buy? Despite the stay at home orders – it’s still possible with these easy tips.
    Check out our quick tips for buying an RV online:

    Determine Your Budget

    When looking for an RV, the first step you need to take is to look at your budget. What kind of funds are you working with? There are a wide range of budget options for every buyer and whether you’d like to buy new or used, RV Trader has an option for you.

    Decide on Type

    There are tons of options out there when it comes to RVs, so you’ll need to determine what type of RV fits your lifestyle and what exactly you’ll be using it for in the future. Have a large family and need a lot of space? A Class A RV might be a great fit for you. Enjoy camping, but want to step it up a notch? You might want to start with a pop-up camper. The possibilities while selecting a type of RV are endless.

    Do Your Research

    Most shoppers start their search for an RV by using a search engine. But the search engines aren’t the only place you can begin your journey to finding an RV. There are also a slew of other valuable resources, like online RV classified sites such as RV Trader. We encourage you to use RV Trader to conduct research on different types of RVs, see different price ranges, and check out a wide variety of floorplans. When you’re in the search phase, remember that it’s okay to browse. There is no pressure. All you’re doing is simply gathering any and all information about an RV you’re interested in. You’re free to explore any and all RV options out there and the best part is it will only take a few mouse-clicks to do so. Take notes to remember features that you like, read through the unit’s descriptions, and check out all of the photos and videos you can to get a feel for the unit. Don’t forget to utilize RV Trader’s MyTrader feature to save your favorite listings and searches and to get notified about new listings or price drops.

    Connect With the Seller

    Once you’ve seen a unit that you’re interested in, reach out to the seller by phone, email, or chat to see additional photos or to set up a video chat or virtual walkthrough if available. Dealers are eager to help you find the right RV for you, and through virtual meetings or through apps like Zoom or Facetime, they can give you a complete tour of the unit you’re interested in, without even stepping foot on their lot. Use the virtual meetings to ask questions and take notes while the dealer guides you through the unit.

    Ask for An Inspection

    Once you connect with the seller, don’t be afraid to ask for an inspection of the RV. Technology gives buyers the opportunity to conduct a virtual inspection over video call with the seller. If you’re shopping on RVTrader.com, you’ll be able to easily pinpoint for-sale RVs that have already received inspections with the RV Trader Inspection Badge. Listings with this badge have received a comprehensive inspection from RV Trader Assurance powered by Lemon Squad. Pre-purchase inspections can provide not only extensive information, but also peace of mind during the buying process.

    Purchase

    There’s nothing like finding the perfect RV for you. When you think you are ready to make your final purchase decision, you have the option of setting up an appointment with the dealership to view and purchase the unit (while keeping social distancing in mind) or you can have the dealer come to you (if available). Many dealerships are offering virtual buying options such as conducting financing entirely online, offering to deliver documents to sign in person (at a safe distance), and RV delivery options where the seller will bring your RV directly to your driveway.

    Social distancing doesn’t mean all purchasing has to stop, everyone just has to get more creative to stay safe during the process. Looking to buy an RV of your own?

     

    Start your search on RV Trader today.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: The Importance of Waste System Venting in RVs

    FMCA Tech Tip: The Importance of Waste System Venting in RVs

    Proper holding tank venting is required (mandated actually), for both the black and the gray waste systems found on recreation vehicles and the method chosen by most RV manufacturers is to run a length of ABS pipe from the holding tank, up and through the roof of the RV. The importance of proper venting, in both systems, cannot be overstated, especially as it relates to odor control. Additionally, without correct venting, sinks will not drain properly, bacteria can propagate and holding tanks will not drain as quickly or completely.

    Keep in mind, as a holding tank empties or a sink drains, air must enter the drainage system. Since RV fixtures as well as holding tanks rely solely on gravity while emptying, having air enter the system as sinks and tanks are drained, results in a faster and more thorough process. There are two types of vents used in recreation vehicle waste systems: direct exterior vents and anti-siphon trap vent devices (ASTVDs).

    Direct Vents

    Direct vents connect the waste systems (either within the drain piping or directly from the holding tank) to the atmosphere outside. There is one other type of direct vent; a side-mounted vent. Side venting is only permissible in the liquid waste system, (typically from a single fixture), and only found on the smallest recreation vehicles. Clearly, the most common and the most effective waste system vent stacks, however, are those that protrude above the roof.

    Anti-Siphon Trap Vent Devices (ASTVD)

    Another type of vent is the anti-siphon trap vent device. These handy gadgets are used as a secondary vent to aid in draining sink fixtures. Also called “check vents,” ASTVDs allow air into the drainage system, but prohibit air from passing out of the system. ASTVDs are installed in the liquid drain piping system at or near a P-trap inside a cabinet. Look under the kitchen and lavatory sink area and you should find them. They are mounted at least 6-inches above the P-trap’s horizontal arm. ASTVDs do not allow odors to escape into the living portion of the RV because of an integral atmospheric pressure-controlled, rubberized, one-way valve. In other words, air in, but not out.

    In addition to ASTVDs, there must still be at least one vent protruding through the roof to allow sewer gases out of that holding tank; ASTVDs are not primary vents. The better-designed waste systems will have ASTVDs installed at every P-trap as well as a direct vent running from each holding tank up and through the roof.

    Direct Vent Maintenance

    I’d wager not many active RVers have ever given serious thought to actually performing any maintenance on the waste system vents. But here’s something to investigate if you’ve never done so before. Sometimes coach manufacturers cut a very large hole in the ceiling and roof for vertical vent pipes to pass through; it obviously makes the installation a little easier and a lot faster. Oftentimes this gap is not sealed properly all the way around the outside perimeter of the pipe.

    If the area around the pipe is not sealed properly and is routed through an oversized hole, it’s likely the tank odors will pass up the vent, collide with the underside of the common sewer cap and be forced back down, around the side of the vent pipe and into the ceiling area where it eventually migrates to the living area. It would behoove the serious coach owner to remove the top cap of each sewer vent on the roof and ensure the space around the perimeter of the vent pipe is sealed tight.

    Better yet, consider the addition of a new roof vent cap. This newer type of replacement vent actually creates a negative pressure inside each holding tank and literally sucks the gases and odors out of the holding tank. Easily installed by any RV handyperson, you might not need holding tank additives ever again! Remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!

  • Buying a Used RV From Start to Finish

    Buying a Used RV From Start to Finish

    Before You Start Searching for an RV…

    Prior to jumping into your search for a used recreational vehicle, you need to determine what your budget is and what kind of RV you want. An average used RV will cost about $15,000 and up for a smaller used camper or about $50,000 and up for larger motorhomes. You can get RVs for cheaper than this, but it would be considered a rare find.

    If you buy from a dealership, there are usually a variety of financing options available. If you decide to buy from a private seller, you will need to pay in full before you receive the RV or you could choose to let a financing company pay for you and pay them monthly. However, if you choose the latter option, you will then owe the financing company interest thus your overall cost will increase.

    The type of RV that you decide to look into buying is entirely up to you. The types of recreational vehicles that you can choose from include:

    • Class A, B & C Motorhomes
    • Pop-ups
    • Travel trailers
    • Park models
    • Truck campers

    All have their unique advantages and disadvantages. Each of these options listed do offer sleeping areas, but other RVs such as fish houses generally do not have amenities for sleeping.

    Online Research

    Once you have determined your budget and decided what types of RVs interest you, you should start doing your research online and RV Trader is a great place to start. Once you’ve found a unit you like, you’ll want to also look into the history of the RV itself.

    The best way to do this is by getting a vehicle history report. You can do this by visiting rvchecks.com – but there are a couple of limitations on that site. The first is that RVs registered in Oregon or Illinois are not required to provide you with any information. Another limitation is that rvchecks.com only provides info on motorized RVs. So, you will not be able to use the site for information on Travel Trailers, 5th Wheels, Tent Trailers or Campers.

    If you want to get vehicle history information on those types of RVs you will need to contact the DMV or appropriate insurance company with the VIN number.

    Ask Questions

    Once you have gotten some info on the RV, you should contact the owner of the RV again and ask them any questions that you might have. This includes asking to see maintenance records, asking when you or someone in place of you can come inspect it, asking for the complete list of features, asking if it’s under warranty and/or has any service package as well as any other questions you might have.

    Inspect the RV

    You should never buy an RV or any other vehicle “sight unseen.” This means you should always go and inspect it. If for some reason you can’t inspect in-person, you can also connect with the seller to ask for a virtual video walkthrough. And keep in mind, you can always hire someone to do the inspection for you. You can do that by using a site like Lemon Squad.

    For a fee, they will travel to the RV you are considering buying and conduct a thorough inspection for you. This will include a detailed report with more than 40 pictures. This is especially useful if you are buying a used RV from out of state so you will not need to travel just to inspect it.

    If you do choose to inspect the recreational vehicle yourself, there are several things you must be sure that you check. This includes the steering, suspension, brakes, the engine, any body or flood damage, appliances, fluid levels, and taking it for a test drive if possible.

    Make Your Offer

    If you have had the inspection conducted and you are satisfied with the RV, then you can make your offer. If you love the RV and want it right away, you should match the asking price. However, if you want to see if you can save a few bucks, you can see if the seller is open to negotiations. However, make sure that your offer is not insultingly low because then talks could break down. Before you try to negotiate price, you should learn all that you can about the RV. This way you do not come off as uninformed when you are in negotiations.

    Get the RV Home

    Keep your options open by looking for used RVs from all over the country, not just near you. You are limiting the amount of RVs that you can potentially purchase and might end up missing out on the deal of a lifetime.

    If you are worried about having to drive it home hundreds of miles from out of state, you do have another option. You can always have your RV shipped. Many auto transport companies offer oversized car shipping which often includes recreational vehicles.

    Shipping your RV to your home is an option that you can use if the recreational vehicle is a hundred miles away or if it is a thousand miles away. You should just be sure to book your shipment at least a month in advance. Once you do that you will just need to make sure that the seller of the RV is prepared for the shipment.

    By shipping your RV, you are not only saving yourself the trouble of traveling to the RV then driving it all the way home. You are also saving a considerable amount of money as well.

    Clean the RV

    When you finally get your newly purchased RV to your home, the first thing you will want to do is to clean it or have it cleaned for you. You can get your RV cleaned for you with a local RV cleaning and detailing service.

    If you choose to clean the RV yourself, be prepared to spend a few hours doing so. The exact amount of time that you will end up spending cleaning the RV will depend on its size. Just be sure that you have the right supplies to get it cleaned. This will include a hose with a running water source, soap, a vacuum, a general-purpose cleaner solution, and several dry towels. You also might need a ladder so you can clean the top of the exterior properly.

    Matt Osborn is the lead writer for RoadRunner Auto Transport.