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Category: RV Advice

  • Comparing Motorhome Chassis Options for Class Cs

    Comparing Motorhome Chassis Options for Class Cs

    When you step into a motorhome, you need to realize something: What you’re seeing is only half the picture. Motorhomes are unique in that they start with a structure — the chassis —that comes from one of the big vehicle manufacturers. From there, these motorhome chassis are delivered to the RV companies who go to work building the actual camping portion of the rig on the backs of these machines.

    So, you might be wondering: How do I know if a motorhome chassis is a good one? How do the different chassis compare against one another. It’s a big question. (And a good one, you savvy RV buyer you.) For the most part, what we’re going to look at in this article are chassis that sit under Class C motorhomes. (Mostly, anyway. We’ll say a short word on Class As at the end.)

    So, let’s get you started. We’ll start with a few important notes on motorhome chassis themselves. Then we’ll get into some differences in the ones on the RV market.

     

    A Note on Chassis Builds and Years

    One thing you’ll want to do as part of your research process is find out if the chassis year and model year are the same. Don’t be surprised if you find that the chassis itself is listed for one model year with the camper being from another. In other words, a motorhome chassis may sit on a manufacturer’s grounds for long enough that the model year changes. This isn’t a problem or a something to flag. Quite simply, it’s something to know. I have seen a quite a few people noticing this, so thought it was worth mentioning.

    You should also know that companies that make these chassis sell a lot of them to the trades. They are literally jacks of all trades and no usually RV-specific. You as likely to see a plumber with one of these as an RVer. So, when a chassis manufacturer builds a chassis, the core of their business is to the trades and that’s how these were designed.

    Therefore, I would strongly suggest driving a few examples around. Doing so will help you see if you have a strong preference for one over the other. Also, know that some RV companies have recognized this industrial nature and have taken steps to improve handling and ride. For example, the E-Series chassis in one RV may give a very different driving experience depending on any changes the RV builder employs. There is absolutely a difference in how one RV drives versus another even on the same chassis based on the changes these RV companies make.

     

    Looking Back on Class Cs

    For many years Chevrolet/GMC, Ford and Dodge built what are called cutaway chassis. Essentially, these could be recognized as the front portion of a van with the back a bare chassis. These would be shipped to RV companies who then built a camper onto the bare chassis portion. The result was a Class C.

    Both Chevrolet/GMC and Ford continue to offer a somewhat modernized version of these vintage chassis. Both are stalwart beasts with big V8 engines and plenty of cargo carrying capacity.What that means for you is that, despite the weight of the camper build on the back of the motorhome chassis, there may be plenty of capacity left over to carry your stuff, your liquids, and potentially even a trailer. That’s quite something.

    Nowadays, Dodge is Ram. And Ram doesn’t really offer one of these traditional platforms. I no longer see RV companies building rigs on the Chevrolet/GMC platform. So that leaves the Ford E-Series as the last of the traditional heavy-duty cutaway chassis.

     

    Ford E-Series: High on HP and Torque, Low on New Tech

    Definitely the senior member of this bunch, the current version of Ford’s E-Series cutaway debuted in 1992. Though it has seen a decent number of upgrades, including to the engine and transmission, this motorhome chassis doesn’t have many of the latest ergonomic nor technological features.

    What it does offer is a monster 7.3L gasoline V8 — dubbed the Godzilla engine. This big V8 has the benefit of a tremendous amount of horsepower and torque. (Which is great when overcoming the weight and wind resistance of the motorhome body.) Another advantage of this chassis is towing. If that’s something you want in a Class C, a model based on the E-Series platform might be worth looking into.

    On the flip side, if you’re interested in the latest safety technologies this might be one not to focus on. With the age of this platform, a lot of the newer features, like lane assist, predictive braking and other technologies, aren’t even on the options list.

    However, it’s a relatively proven and simple beast of a chassis that has remained popular for it’s durability and capability.

     

    Ford Transit: Newer Features, Less Cargo Carrying Capacity

    Ford is unusual in that it has two “cutaway” offerings for RV builders. As mentioned, the first is the E-Series; the other is their Transit. Other than the blue oval on the radiator shell, this has almost nothing in common with the E-Series — other than being a cutaway.

    This is a thoroughly modern vehicle. That means that it has newer features. Things like lane-drift warnings and preemptive braking (where a vehicle senses something stopped in front of it and applies the brakes). And it includes one of my favorites: wind-drift assist. All of these are available with a Transit.

    You can also get modern infotainment systems, far more comfortable seating, and many other features that weren’t even a consideration back when the E-Series was conceived.

    Under the hood, Ford’s Transit cutaway uses a 3.5 liter gasoline-fueled twin turbocharged V6 mated to a ten-speed automatic. This driveline does offer good horsepower and torque but uses a lot of technology to accomplish that. The ten-speed automatic, too, is much better suited to finding the right gear and working with the engine. So, that you have a better driving experience.

    Comparing the Transit to the E-Series

    This means that, especially with RVs built on the Transit chassis, you’ll want to look at how much cargo carrying capacity remains as the Transit isn’t quite as capable in this area as the E-Series.

    But the E-Series, being just an old workhorse, has greater cargo carrying and towing capacities. Something else that can be fitted to the Transit chassis from the factory is all-wheel-drive. For those who might like to go where the road can be more challenging, this could be the solution. For example, skiers who want to head into the winter weather or even some off-road conditions.

    But if you want something that’s even more capable, a Super C might be the place to look. Ford has an answer there, too.

     

    Mercedes-Benz Sprinter: Feature Options and Optimized Fuel Economy

    The Transit is a direct competitor to the Sprinter in many ways. They share a somewhat similar styling and comparable safety technologies available. Like the Transit, Mercedes-Benz offers a slew of safety technologies. Even so, the RV company that orders the chassis has to specify what they want built in. So, careful shopping is the order of the day if this has value to you.

    Also, know that it’s typically the RV company that orders these in fleet orders. That means that the number of features on the chassis can be dictated by what the RV company prioritizes. I’ve seen some with a full complement of safety and driving technologies and some that are much less well equipped.

    The Big Difference Between the Transit and the Sprinter

    Possibly the biggest difference between the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter and the Ford Transit lies under the hood, where currently Mercedes-Benz offerings feature a 2.0 liter twin turbocharged four-cylinder diesel. The incredible technology of this engine means you still get decent performance despite the very small displacement of the engine.

    Being a diesel, it also means that you’ll get decent fuel economy, relatively speaking.
    But that engine can also be a liability as the number of places that are willing to perform even routine maintenance on it is somewhat limited. I’ve been told that even some routine maintenance items can be rather pricey.

    On the plus side, Mercedes-Benz has made a more capable 4500-series chassis available which I’ve seen under the forthcoming Grand Design Lineage. This more capable variant means more capacity for cargo and towing.

    Like the Transit, the Sprinter is also available with all-wheel-drive and Mercedes-Benz has a lot of experience in this field going back to the early days of the Unimog military vehicle.

     

    Super C Chassis: Employing the Power of the Pickup

    As long as we’re peering beneath the veneer, it’s worth noting that Ford, Chevrolet, and Ram offer what looks like the front of a pickup truck along with a bare chassis back. This is something you may find under a Super C type motorhome.

    These are typically available with the various company’s diesel engines and true four-wheel-drive meaning that they offer some off-road capability. They may also be well-suited to those who like to camp in more challenging weather, such as skiers who need all-wheel-drive
    People are almost as passionate about the brand of their pickup trucks as they are about their religion.

    Do know that all these of these chassis can be had in very capable iterations which is part of the appeal of the Super C motorhome. That means that, properly equipped, some of these Super C rigs can tow a substantial trailer.

    At the Forefront of Four Wheel Drive and Truck Innovation

    For example, we got to see a Jayco Seneca XT 35L recently which was based on the Ford F600 chassis. This meant a big Ford 7.3 liter diesel engine and ten-speed automatic.

    One of the benefits of these being based essentially on pickup platforms is that pickups are the most profitable area for vehicle manufacturers and the companies expend a tremendous amount of effort keeping these at the forefront of ergonomics and design.

    If a manufacturer innovates a feature, it doesn’t take long for the others to follow suit.
    Something else available on these chassis is true four-wheel-drive. While the Transit and Sprinter cutaway chassis offer all-wheel-drive, it is possible to get true four-wheel-drive on these chassis including low range. I’m not sure you’ll be tackling the Rubicon trail in a motorhome but the more capable off-road driving functionality can get you out of some sticky situations.

     

    Freightliner: Even Bigger Is Out There

    If these pickup-based models aren’t enough, Freightliner offers chassis for use in motorhomes. While it might be assumed that these are big truck companies that make industrial machines better left for moving vans, and that’s certainly one of the customers who buys them, it may surprise you to find how nice these can be to drive.

    Like with the “cutaway” chassis, these can be ordered in trim levels. These range from simple to sensational. They can include things like air seats and many of the safety technologies you might expect in a passenger vehicle. Since these Freightliner rigs initially started out for delivery trucks and school buses, they have remarkably good turning function. After all, commercial vehicles need to be able to get out of tight spots.

    They also offer incredible cargo carrying capability. So, if towing is something that’s a high priority, a Super C based on the Freightliner chassis might be just the answer.

     

    Class A Motorhomes: New Legislation Putting a Damper on Diesel

    There may be some challenges to the future of the Class A motorhomes based on how pending legislation is going to go. Six states, led by California’s Air Resources Board’s example, are currently slated to outlaw diesel-powered motorhomes and other heavy commercial diesel vehicles.

    There is a lot of information about this and it remains to be seen how deeply this will cut once the dust settles, but we left big Class A motorhome chassis out of this article until we see how that market goes.

     

    Conclusions on Motorhome Chassis Comparison

    As with any RV purchase, knowing what you want before you start seriously shopping can really help you with the final outcome. Do you want to be able to tow a larger load? Are you planning to go where four-wheel-drive is useful? Do you spend a lot of time in very rural places where service might be more difficult to obtain? Hopefully this article has been a good starting point in your shopping adventure.

  • Weatherproofing Your RV for Winter Travel

    Weatherproofing Your RV for Winter Travel

    The days of storing your RV for the winter season could soon be over. These days nearly all RVs are designed for year-round use. That means that whether you’re planning a winter RV trip to warmer temperatures or just heading up to the local ski hill, your RV can provide you with a comfortable living space when you get there. But regardless of where you’re headed on your winter travels, weatherproofing your RV is a must to ensure your arrive safely to your destination. (And stay warm after you get there.)

    In addition to keeping your rig warm and cozy, weatherproofing your RV involves keeping plumbing lines flowing and engines and generators running. In this guide, we’ll share everything you need to know about weatherproofing your RV for winter travel.  

     

    Getting Your RV Fit for Winter Travel

    Knock out manufacturer-recommended RV maintenance tasks.

    If you’ve been doing manufacturer-recommended maintenance on your RV, getting it ready for winter travels will be a piece of cake. However, if you’ve skipped some of the recommended maintenance tasks (like many of us), you’ll want to catch up with these before you subject your RV to a winter road trip. This is especially true when it comes to the various components of your RV wheels, including the tires, and wheel bearings. After all, there are few things worse than having a tire blowout or having a wheel fall off on a frozen highway.

     

    Warm up your engine oil with a block heater.

    A block heater can protect your engine from sub-freezing temperatures that cause engine oil to thicken and diesel fuel to gel. Either of these conditions are hard on engine components and can make it difficult — or impossible — to start your RV. An engine block heater is strongly recommended if you plan to travel where winter temperatures fall below negative five degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis.  

    It’s a good idea to outfit your RV generator with a block heater too. (Especially if it’s exposed to temperatures of less than 60 degree Fahrenheit.) This will help make it last longer and make it much easier to start.

    Engine block heater components are fairly simple. They consist of a small heating element and a power cord. Pretty simple. Many late model RVs already have a block heater installed and only need the power cord hooked up. 

     

    Get better control with snow tires and tire chains.

    Ice, snow, and black ice can create hazardous winter driving conditions. Having good snow tires can make the difference between staying in control on the road and being in an accident. Snow tires are designed to give you traction on the road. Aside from having an aggressive tread pattern that sheds debris and water, good snow tires are made of a pliable rubber compound that resists freezing temperatures. Snow tires have an “Alpine” symbol with a mountain and a snowflake that makes them easy to identify.

    It goes without saying that snow tires should be used on your tow vehicle. (That’s obvious, right?) However, having them on your trailer or fifth wheel is also essential.  After all, if your trailer wheels slide sideways, it can wreak havoc with tow vehicle handling. On top of that, it could create a hazardous situation. In the cold, no less. That could really spoil your day.  

    When Snow Tires Aren’t Enough

    Driving in heavy snow, especially if it’s in a mountain pass,  demands even more traction than snow tires can offer. This is where tire chains come in handy. These can be very useful when you’re traveling through mountain passes that can be very rapidly covered in inches of snow. Aside from that, the majority of jurisdictions with mountains have laws that make it mandatory for vehicles to carry tire chains. 

    Tire chains are available in a range of sizes to fit virtually any tire. They’re used on the drive wheels of the vehicle. Motorhomes and other vehicles that have dual wheels should have tire chains that fit over both wheels on each wheel set.   

     

    Heating Your RV in the Winter

    Having a warm, cozy RV is important in winter months. Of course, there are several ways you can do this. But the trusty propane furnace remains the most common heat source for most RVs. (Diesel furnaces and electric fireplaces, and in-floor heating systems are also gaining popularity.) Whatever type of heating system your RV has, it’s important to: 

    1. Know it operates.
    2. Do a trial run before you leave on your trip to ensure it’s functional.
    3. Have enough fuel to last the duration of your trip. Propane refills can be hard to find in some areas, especially in winter.

     

    Keep your water flowing.

    Amenities such as a functional indoor toilet, a place to wash up, and a warm shower are part of what makes an RV a home on wheels. That being said, frigid winter temperatures can freeze pipes and other plumbing components fast, especially while the RV is traveling. If your RV has a heated basement with enclosed tanks, you probably won’t need to worry about frozen plumbing components while you travel. On the other hand, if the tanks and plumbing (including waste valves) are exposed to the elements, you’ll want to take some precautions.  If that’s the case here’s what you can do to protect RV plumbing while you travel.  

    1. Winterize your RV before you go and bring a supply of bottled water. This is by far the most inconvenient option, but if you only plan to travel for a few days en route to a warm destination, it makes sense.   
    2. Install insulated heat tape on exposed RV plumbing and tank heating pads on RV freshwater and waste tanks. These systems run on either DC (12-volt) or AC (120-volt) power. If your RV has rooftop solar panels and an inverter you can use AC power to power heating pads while the RV is in motion.

     

    Handle condensation concerns.

    Condensation is a winter RVing concern that can cause mold, staining, and rot if left unchecked. This is caused when moist air inside a warm RV reaches its cold outer walls. The temperature change from warm to cold causes water molecules in the air to change from gas to a liquid. The result is an accumulation of water on the inside surfaces of windows and walls.  This creates the perfect environment for mold to grow.    

    Activities like making coffee, cooking, taking a shower, or just breathing create a surprising amount of moisture inside the RV. In addition, propane releases a small amount of water into the air as it burns. So, just running propane appliances like the furnace or cooktop add even more humidity. 

    While you can’t prevent moist air inside the RV, you can minimize its effects by using an electric cooktop for cooking,  and by using vent fans while you cook or shower. A small dehumidifier in the RV can greatly reduce the amount of moisture in the air.

     

    Insulate the windows.

    RV windows can lose a considerable amount of heat without adding insulation to them. Heat loss can be greatly reduced by keeping RV window coverings drawn. Using reflective insulation (like Reflectix) on RV windows can double their R-Value, making your RV just a little cozier. 

     

    Wrapping Up on Weatherproofing Your RV

    Taking the time to prepare your RV for winter travels helps to ensure that you’ll make it safely to your destination and be comfortable when you get there. Be sure to prioritize road safety, making sure the heating system functions, and keeping the water system from freezing  With careful preparation, you can confidently explore the beauty of winter landscapes in your RV.

  • Finding Your Vintage Camper Style

    Finding Your Vintage Camper Style

    Discovering your personal style can be a process that is hard to describe. Even a little mysterious. As an example, before we became full-time RVers, we once searched for hours to find the perfect couch for our new apartment. Nothing inspired either of us until we stumbled upon a futon with a colorful abstract pattern. It reminded us of ice tinkling in a highball cocktail glass. It immediately spoke to both of us — for reasons neither of us could quite articulate. Similarly, we reached decisions the same way when we bought our house. And our cars. And — you guessed it — our full-time vintage camper. What was it about the vintage camper style that drew our attention? Taste.

    When we first saw on the “canned ham,” mid-century camper that’s become our rolling home since 2012, we just felt it was right. We were attracted by the cozy all-wood interior and unpainted aluminum exterior — not to mention the smiles it brought to our faces. (Some tell us we look like a postcard rolling down the road.) When we saw it, we knew it: That was our vintage camper style.

    But if you’re at the beginning of your journey, you might ask, “How do I figure out my vintage camper style? Where do I even start?”

    From recognizing personal taste to brushing up on am little vintage camper know-how, we’ll git you a jump start into age-old adventure.

     

    Vintage Camper Style Starts with Personal Taste

    Personal taste is, of course, personal — even if you’re lucky enough to share a style vibe with your partner. One person’s fashion faux pas is another person’s carefully curated statement.   While I really wanted to paint big, bright, hippie flowers all over the aluminum siding, we compromised with a bright purple door and flaming red trim and colorful, floral interior. And of course, RVs are no different. While we might argue that today’s models answer our modern needs, really, aren’t we just buying into what is fashionable according to our own style? 

    Finding a vintage camper style that suits you sounds like a simple matter, but with so many directions to go, where do you begin? The research could lead you on such a deep dive that you may never come up for air long enough to purchase your dream project. We can’t say that we haven’t warned you. (After all, we did tell you everything you want to consider before you restore a vintage camper.)

     

     

    A Very Quick History of the Modern Vintage

    At the turn of the 20th century, automobiles started rumbling across the streets and back-roads of our country. Not too long into the second decade, one-of-a-kind camper vans (precursors to modern motorhomes) began popping up to combine the freedom of travel along with the comfort of living and sleeping along the way. Even with incomes rising prior to the late 1920s, most middle-class families couldn’t afford both a vehicle for everyday life and another to take on vacation. As a result, the detachable travel trailer proliferated and still makes up the largest section of the RV industry today.  

    While many manufacturers began cranking out standardized versions, the hey-day of what we now consider the “vintage camper” came after the end of WWII. With the post-war economic boom and manufacturing processes well established to meet demand, aluminum-sided, lightweight, and affordable travel trailers took to the highways for their much longed for vacation. And the golden age of the American road trip took off down Route 66!

     

    What’s in a Name: Vintage Camper Lingo

    If you’re just starting the journey to find your vintage camper style, you might think a lot of terms are synonymous. Retro and vintage. Classic and antique. Aren’t they the same thing. No, no, no. Each term is a specific reference.

    So, let’s get you smart — quick. Here are some of the accepted definitions for older or older looking RVs:

     

    Retro

    New construction designed to look old — often has modern appliances and technology but designed to resemble the older models. Interior materials include wood, wood paneling, plastic, and modern composite materials. Most commonly, these will mimic the “canned ham” style travel trailer. Exterior is often painted or coated during the manufacturing process.

     

    Classic

    More than 20 years old, with a wide array of styles. Materials include plastic, plastic laminate, wood paneling, vinyl, and some modern composite materials. Most of these offer manufactured painted siding to prevent (or slow down) the oxidation of aluminum. 

     

    Vintage

    Made from 1946 to 1969, these babies are the very essence of mid-century modern. If you like the style depicted in “The Incredibles” movies, this is your jam. Materials include real wood interiors, with some Formica countertops, with aluminum trim pieces and appliances, and vinyl flooring. Ice boxes and gas lanterns were still being used. Aluminum siding can be painted, or unpainted which can lead to a dull appearance over time due to oxidation. However, these can be restored to their original shine with some elbow grease and the right polishing compound.

     

    Antique

    Beginning in 1945 (or earlier), there’s lots of variation in these early models but most offer all wood interiors with cast iron cooking and heating appliances, gas lanterns, and ice boxes rather than electrical refrigeration. Exteriors come in all kinds of materials including treated leather, wood, or aluminum. 

     

    Common Shapes that Define the Vintage Look

    Canned Ham

    Harkening back to the cured pork product from the ’50s, this style is streamlined front to back with vertical sides that are high enough to facilitate standing up inside. These are usually single axle trailers. Typical floorplans include a banquet that could be converted to a sleeping space, and a full-time bed or convertible couch/sleeping area. They often define the “happy camper” image marketed on everything from pillows to mugs.

     

     

    Teardrop

    These small streamlined, single-axle towables offer inside sleeping areas and some storage, but they are typically not tall enough to facilitate standing. The kitchen area is accessed through a hatch on the outside of the camper, where the teardrop shape comes to a point.

     

    Bread Loaf

    Squarish with vertical sides but with rounded corners, these can range in length from less than 20 feet with a single axle to over 40 feet “park models.”

     

     

    Over Bumper

    These are variations of the canned ham or bread loaf styles that offer a sleeping or storage area that pops out above the trailer tongue like a small fifth wheel, adding some sleeping/storage space to the standard interior layout.  

     

    Aircraft/Streamlined

    More tubular than square, these aerodynamic towables are often the very image of what folks imagine when they conjure up an image of a vintage camper.

     

     

    Pop-Up

    These convertible trailers are a cross between a hard-sided camper and a tent. As the name implies, they expand to become an inside living space, often with sleeping areas hanging off the front and back, only to fold down again for more compact towing. 

     

     

    Inspiration for Your Vintage Camper Style

    Not sure of your vintage camper style yet? No worries. (You just got started.) Here are a few great ways to get your vintage groove on, both in person and online.

     

    Visit the Vintage Camper Museum in Elkhart

    If you’re driving through northern Indiana, it’s worth stopping to tour this place as there is quite a bit of history here. They even have some good historical references in their library from trade journals going all the way back into the 1930s. 

     

     

    Attend Vintage Camper Rallies

    Vintage Camper Trailer Magazine and Tin Can Tourists sponsor several rallies every year.  Many of these events have an open house period for the public to come and tour.

     

    Stay at a Vintage Camper Campground

    Found all over the country, these unique campgrounds offer several private, fully-restored campers as “cabins,” all in one place. Book a weekend in one and tour some others to see what you might want in your own vintage rig.

     

    Join a Vintage Club

    Both in person and online, you can find brand-specific clubs — Tin Can Tourists, and Sisters on the Fly (for women only). Just type in what you are seeking into any search engine, and you’ll have a weekend of fun ahead of you!

     

    Open Vintage Camper Trailer Magazine

    Dedicated to this unique hobby, this bimonthly publication allows you to learn from the experts while perusing the various styles through the ages.

    *****

    It’s important to not think about these old trailers as fragile little “hot house flowers.” They were built well, with quality materials, and if you treat them well, there’s simply no stopping them. We’ve been all over this continent, and we’ve always enjoyed the comforts of our little home on wheels. Our Canned Ham — “Hamlet” — is celebrating his 68th birthday this year, but he’s not even thinking about retirement!

     

  • 4 Adventure-Ready THOR Toy Haulers for ATVs

    4 Adventure-Ready THOR Toy Haulers for ATVs

    If you love ATVs, dirt bikes, and off-road adventures, a toy hauler is the ultimate RV to fuel your adrenaline lifestyle. These rugged rigs combine the comforts of home with a dedicated garage space to haul all your favorite toys, making them the perfect choice for those who refuse to leave the adventure behind. But with all the toy haulers out there, you might wonder: What are the best toy haulers for ATVs?

    As a THOR Ambassador, I’ve had the opportunity to explore some of the best RVs in the THOR family, and if you’re looking for a toy hauler that can keep up with your need for adventure, you’re in the right place. Whether you prefer the extra space of a towable fifth wheel or travel trailer, the luxury of a Class A, or the versatility of a Class C, there’s a perfect toy hauler for every off-road enthusiast.

    Here are my top four picks from the THOR family for adventure-ready toy haulers that can take you—and your ATVs—anywhere.

     

    1. Fifth Wheel Toy Hauler: Keystone Fuzion 424

    Why It’s Built for Big Adventures

    The Keystone Fuzion 424 is an off-road-ready fifth wheel designed for serious toy hauler enthusiasts. If you need maximum garage space, tons of storage, and plenty of luxury, this fifth wheel is a dream setup. With a massive garage, patio ramp system, and high-end interior, it’s perfect for those who want an extended stay experience while bringing their off-road toys along for the ride.

    Note: This monster RV needs a beast to tow it around. It is a must to check all of the weight and length statistics of this RV vs the capabilities of your truck, as you will likely need a dually Heavy Duty pickup in the 3500 range or higher.

     

    Key Features

    • 13-foot garage with ramp patio system for the ultimate outdoor space.
    • HappiJac power bunk system with dual sofas for extra sleeping arrangements.
    • Onan 5.5kW generator & dual fuel tanks to keep the power on and your toys topped off with fuel.
    • King bed master suite with walk-in closet.
    • Three A/C units to stay cool in the desert heat.
    • Luxury kitchen with residential appliances for full-time RVers that want those classy touches.

     

    Pro Tip

    The Fuzion 424 is big (44 feet long!), so be mindful of campground restrictions. For ultimate flexibility, scout out BLM land or dispersed camping spots where size isn’t an issue. The ramp patio setup makes it perfect for boondocking, giving you a comfortable outdoor space no matter where you set up camp. 

     

    2. Travel Trailer Toy Hauler: Heartland Torque T322

    Why It’s the Best Towable Option

    If you’re looking for a travel trailer toy hauler that’s easy to tow yet capable of carrying your off-road gear, the Heartland Torque T322 is a fantastic choice. It blends rugged utility with modern comforts, making it ideal for off-road getaways. This model is perfect for weekend warriors and full-time RVers alike who want a balance of mobility, storage, and comfort.

     

    Key Features

    • 12.5-foot garage with a patio ramp.
    • 7,800-pound dry weight, making it half-ton towable for many trucks.
    • Large U-shaped kitchen with a full fridge and oven.
    • Private master bedroom with king-size bed.
    • 2,000-pound tie-downs for securing ATVs and dirt bikes.
    • Fuel station onboard for refueling your toys.

     

    Pro Tip

    For adventurers who want the flexibility of a travel trailer, the Torque T322 is a solid pick. Make sure your truck has the right towing capacity—while it’s lighter than a fifth wheel, it still needs a capable tow vehicle. The built-in fuel station makes it easy to keep your ATVs running without extra fuel cans, making this a great off-grid option.

     

    3. Class A Toy Hauler: Thor Outlaw 38MB

    Why It’s Perfect for Off-Roaders

    The Thor Outlaw 38MB is a Class A toy hauler built for power, luxury, and serious adventure. If you want to hit the trails all day and relax in a high-end motorhome at night, this is your rig. Built on a Ford F-53 chassis with a 7.3L V8 engine, it offers plenty of towing power and a spacious garage to haul ATVs, motorcycles, or dirt bikes with ease.

     

    Key Features

    • 10-foot 2-inch garage with a ramp that converts into a patio deck.
    • 1,500-pound tie-down rings to keep your toys secure.
    • 8,000-pound towing capacity for bringing extra gear or an additional trailer.
    • SkyBunk™ overhead sleeping area for additional sleeping space.
    • Fully equipped kitchen and residential-style living area.
    • Outdoor TV and sound system for unwinding after a day of off-roading.

    Pro Tip

    This Class A beast is big (39 feet 10 inches in length), so plan ahead when choosing boondocking locations. If you’re heading into rugged terrain, scout out wide-open areas with solid ground for safe parking and maneuverability. Many Class A toy haulers are best suited for established campgrounds or dispersed camping spots with plenty of room to maneuver.

     

    4. Class C Toy Hauler: Thor Outlaw 29T

    Why It’s Built for Versatility

    If you love the idea of a toy hauler with a garage but want a more compact rig, the Thor Outlaw 29T is a Class C toy hauler that’s perfect for off-roaders who want something easier to drive and park than a large Class A. This model is built on a Ford E-Series chassis with a 7.3L V8 engine, offering both maneuverability and power to tow an additional trailer with ease.

    Key Features

    • 8-foot by 8-foot garage with tie-downs to keep your ATVs or motorcycles secure.
    • 7,500-pound towing capacity for hauling extra gear or a small trailer.
    • Drop-down ramp door converts into an outdoor patio space.
    • Queen-size, cab-over bunk for extra sleeping space.
    • Spacious kitchen with full-size fridge to keep meals convenient on the road.
    • Solar prep for off-grid adventures.

     

    Pro Tip

    The Thor Outlaw 29T is a great middle-ground between a large, luxury Class A and a towable toy hauler. If you don’t want to deal with towing a separate trailer but still need garage space, this rig is an excellent choice. The garage also doubles as a flexible living space, making it ideal for longer trips with multiple uses for every inch of space.

     

    Which Toy Hauler Is Right for You?

    Choosing the right toy hauler for off-roading depends on your travel style, storage needs, and tow setup.

    • Need luxury with a built-in garage? Go for the Thor Outlaw 38MB (Class A).
    • Want a drivable Class C that still hauls your ATVs? The Thor Outlaw 29T is a smart choice.
    • Craving massive storage and top-tier amenities? The Keystone Fuzion 424 (Fifth Wheel) is perfect for full-time adventure.
    • Prefer a lightweight, towable option? The Heartland Torque T322 (Travel Trailer) has you covered.

    With so many adventure-ready toy haulers for ATVs in the THOR family, there’s no shortage of options for off-road thrill seekers. Whether you’re heading into the desert, climbing mountain trails, or hitting the dunes, one of these toy haulers will get you—and your ATVs—there in style.

    Now, load up your ATVs, hit the roads less traveled, and bring the adventure to your backyard. And if you’re looking for friends to join in, feel free to send me your GPS, because I’m always ready for an adventure.

     

  • Don’t Forget Your RV Tire Maintenance This Winter

    Don’t Forget Your RV Tire Maintenance This Winter

    As the temperatures drop and the snow starts to fall, many RVers prepare to winterize their rigs for storage. Another intrepid variety of camper gets their home on wheels ready to embrace more cold-weather adventures ahead. But whether you’re hibernating for the winter, heading to a cozy mountain retreat, or boondocking in a frosty wilderness, there’s one essential part of your RV that needs extra care during the winter and often gets overlooked: your RV tire maintenance.

    Most campers know that RV tire maintenance is important for their safety when they’re criss-crossing the country in warmer weather. But cold-weather RV tire maintenance is also crucial. In fact, it has a big impact on ensuring safety, maximizing performance, and extending the lifespan of your tires.

    So, ere are five tips for the winter months to keep your RV rolling smoothly through the chilly conditions. 

     

    The Impact of Cold Weather on RV Tires

    Cold weather affects more than just your comfort — it significantly impacts your tires, too. As temperatures drop, air pressure in your tires decreases. Rubber compounds stiffen. Let’s face it: When it’s really cold, everything seems more stiff and rigid. (I know all my muscles and bones feel that way.)

    But with tires, these changes can lead to decreased traction, uneven wear, and even complete failure if not addressed properly. For RVers traveling in winter conditions, proper tire maintenance becomes a nonnegotiable part of safe and enjoyable adventures.

     

    Key Winter RV Tire Maintenance Tasks

    1. Monitor tire pressure religiously.

    Tire pressure can drop by 1 or 2 pounds per square inch (psi) for every decrease in 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Underinflated tires not only wear unevenly but also compromise your RV’s handling and fuel efficiency.

    Tips for Tire Pressure Management:
    • Invest in a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). A TPMS provides real-time updates on tire pressure, giving you peace of mind during winter travels.
    • Check tires regularly. Use a high-quality digital tire pressure gauge to check your tires before every trip and at least once a week during extended stays. While TPMS systems are great, double checking adds that extra layer of security and peace of mind.
    • Adjust for temperature, Inflate tires to the manufacturer’s recommended PSI while the tires are cold (before driving).

     

    2. Inspect for cold-weather cracks and damage.

    Cold weather can cause the rubber in your tires to become brittle, increasing the risk of cracking and other damage. Before hitting the road, take the time to inspect your tires for visible wear and tear.

    What to Look For:
    • Cracks or bulges. Check for cracks in the sidewalls and tread, as these can worsen in freezing temperatures.
    • Tread depth. Use a tire tread depth gauge to ensure you have enough grip for icy or wet conditions. The rule of thumb is to maintain a minimum tread depth of 6/32 inches.

      For those that don’t have, want to buy, or want to learn how to use a tread depth gauge, a much less scientific gauge is the “penny test”. While I strongly recommend a digital tread depth gauge, many RVers and car enthusiasts claim that the penny test is a decent way to check the tread if you can’t get it to a tire shop.

      What is the penny test?

      Insert the penny head-first into the tread groove, and if you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, your tire tread is worn and needs to be replaced; if his head is covered, the tread is still sufficient.

    • Valve stems. Examine valve stems for cracks or leaks that could compromise pressure stability.

     

    3. Weigh whether you need specialty tires for winter.

    If you’re traveling to areas with heavy snowfall or icy roads, investing in winter tires can greatly enhance your safety and driving experience. Winter tires are designed with specialized tread patterns and rubber compounds to provide better grip in cold conditions.

    Why Winter Tires Are Worth It:
    • Improved traction. Winter tires are engineered for snowy and icy surfaces, offering significantly better traction than all-season tires.
    • Enhanced safety. They reduce stopping distances on slippery roads, which is critical for a larger vehicle like an RV.
    • Longevity. Swapping to winter tires during colder months can extend the life of your all-season tires.
    • Hybrid option. Another option that some RVers choose is an all-terrain tire. They are somewhat of a middle ground between snow tires in terms of grip and stability in winter weather and the pavement/highway drive that an all-season tire will give you in normal conditions. Always talk to a tire professional when deciding what tires would be best for your style of travel.

     

    4. Store tires properly when not in use.

    For RVers who store their rigs during the winter, proper tire storage is essential to prevent flat spots, cracking, or other long-term damage. Tires that sit in one position for extended periods are especially vulnerable.

    Storage Tips:
    • Elevate tires. Use tire cradles or jack stands to lift your RV slightly off the ground and prevent flat spots.
    • Protect from UV damage. Store your RV in a covered area or use tire covers to shield tires from harmful UV rays.
    • Control temperature. Keep stored tires somewhere that is not affected by extreme weather to maintain their elasticity and durability.

     

    5. Adjust your driving habits.

    Cold-weather driving requires a slightly different approach to ensure your safety and your tires’ performance. Adjust your habits to adapt to the unique challenges posed by winter roads.

    Driving Tips for Cold Weather:
    • Reduce speed. Icy or wet roads can decrease traction, so slow down to maintain control. Slow and steady definitely wins the race in wintery conditions.
    • Avoid sudden moves. Brake, accelerate, and turn gradually to reduce the risk of skidding or losing grip.
    • Stay alert. Watch for black ice and snowdrifts, especially on less-traveled roads or in shaded areas.

     

    Bonus Tip: Carry a cold-weather tire emergency kit.

    Even the most prepared RVer can face unexpected challenges on the road. A cold-weather tire emergency kit ensures you’re ready for anything.

    What to Include:
    • A portable air compressor to adjust tire pressure on the go. Make sure it is powerful enough to inflate the usually higher PSI ratings that RV tires need.
    • A tire repair kit for minor punctures.
    • Heavy-duty tire chains for added traction in snowy or icy conditions.
    • Road flares or LED beacons to increase visibility if you’re stuck on the roadside.

     

    Safe Travels

    Whether you’re braving a frosty road trip or storing your RV for the season, cold-weather RV tire maintenance is a must for every RVer. By monitoring tire pressure, inspecting for damage, and taking steps to protect your tires, you can avoid costly repairs and ensure safe travels all winter long. With a little extra care, you’ll be ready to embrace the snowy landscapes and make the most of your winter RV adventures. Stay safe out there!

  • How to Install a Lagun Table: An RV Mystery Solved

    How to Install a Lagun Table: An RV Mystery Solved

    Maxing out multiuse spaces is an essential part of the RV game. RVs have limited space, but in small RVs in particular, making the most of it is paramount. All of which is why RV models of all sizes frequently come equipped with Lagun tables. (Last year I saw several nicely placed in the Grech RV models I reviewed.) These tables can be mounted on any solid, vertical surface, instantly creating a dining or work area in the RV. But when you need the space for something else, a Lagun table quickly disassembles for storage. Quick and easy. Well, that is unless you have never installed, assembled, or dissembled a Lagun table before. In that case, it may be a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma. So, if you’re new to this multiuse solution, you may find yourself wondering how to install a Lagun table.

    If that’s you, don’t worry. Those of use who have mastered how to install a Lagun table remember being in your shoes. (Only too well.) So, let’s dive in and get you spun up with everything you need to know about this great  — if initially mercurial — product.

     

    The Lagun Table: A Short Introduction

    As mentioned, one of the virtues of a Lagun tabletop is that it can seamlessly swivel and adjust to meet whatever need you happen to have. This lets you easily move it out of the way when you need space, but you’re not ready to disassemble it yet. However, when you want a stable work surface or you’re ready to travel, the tabletop can be easily locked in place with a handle.  

    Lagun tables afford you the ability to create a dining area or an adjustable work surface that can be raised or lowered as needed. Upgrading your RV with a Lagun table to your RV (if it doesn’t come with one) lets you have a space that normally serves as a sleeping or lounge area become a comfortable dining table or functional work surface.

    Another big advantage of this style of table is that with no pedestal, there’s more leg room under the table. In addition, when it’s time to hit the road, you have the options of locking it in place, or quickly dismantling and storing it for travel.   

    Versatility of Function, Improvement of Ergonomics

    While this table could easily be considered a must-have for van conversions or small trailers, its versatile design allows it to be used with the existing tabletop in any RV. This makes it easier to get into or out of the dinette seating area. If you’re one of the many campers who use your RV dinette as a work surface, you’ll know that working at a computer on a RV dining table can cause neck and/or shoulder pain. That’s because most RV dinettes are designed low. One of the best features of a Lagun table is that it’s so versatile. Its vertical height is adjustable to whatever height  feels best for you. This in itself can help reduce ergonomics related pain. 

    Where to Buy a Lagun Table

    If all this has piqued your interest but you don’t yet have a Lagun table, here are a few places to purchase one: Lagun USA, Vanlife Outfitters, Expedition Upfitter Canada, and RecPro RV Parts.

     

    How to Install a Lagun Table

    Lagun table installation requires minimal skills, a measuring tape, a carpenter’s level and a cordless drill. The mounting bracket can be installed on any solid vertical surface that’s five/eighths of an inch or thicker to support the weight of the leg assembly, table, plus anything you put on the table. The Lagun leg assembly comes in several lengths. It’s important to decide which leg length will work best for your intended use before you order your Lagun kit. The mounting bracket is 7 inches high. You must have at least one inch of the leg tightened onto the bracket to ensure stability. 

    Lagun doesn’t include a table top with the table leg kit. However, you can use any lightweight but sturdy table top up to 30 inches by 40inches on the standard table leg kit — or up to 24 inches by 36 inches if you choose the folding leg kit. This leaves a lot of options.  If you have woodworking tools, skills, and patience, it’s easy to make your own custom tabletop. That being said, a cutting board or prefabricated table top offers a simple solution for anyone who doesn’t want to make their own table top. Many RVers have found that a large wood cutting board work.

    While the kit comes with detailed instructions, these are the steps for wall-mounted bracket installation.

     

    Step-by-Step Installation

    1. Choose a solid vertical surface to install the bracket. Be sure there is enough clearance to allow for vertical adjustment of the leg. You may need to use a spacer to allow for clearance of dinette cushions, et cetera. (Note: The bracket is seven inches high. You must have at least one inch of the slotted leg groove tightened onto the bracket for a stable system.)
    2. Hold the mounting bracket in place on the vertical mounting surface, using a level to ensure it’s perfectly vertical (90 degrees) to the floor. Mark your drilling points.
    3. Drill four holes for included 5/16-inch bolts into surface 
    4. Holding the mounting bracket securely in place, install the bolts.
    5. Install the table top on the table mounting plate.

     

    How to Set Up the Lagun Table 

    Setting up a Lagun table for the first time ever can be tricky. Always loosen the handles before connecting, disassembling, swiveling or adjusting the table.  

     

    Step-by-Step Setup

    1. Install the table top on the horizontal arm and tighten the handle clockwise. 
    2.  Now slide the table leg into the mounting bracket and adjust the height to where you want it.
    3. Place the horizontal arm with the table top on it onto the pivot on top of the leg and adjust it to where it will work for you. If you’re not traveling anywhere, you might want to leave the handle in the loosened position to allow the table to swivel.  The handle that allows the table to swivel should always be tightened for travel to avoid damage. 

    It’s important not to over-tighten the plastic handles  or they can break or seize. You want the handles to be snug, but not tight.

     

    How to Disassemble a Lagun Table

    All handles on the Lagun table turn counter-clockwise to loosen. Disassembly is a simple matter of reversing the steps above.  

     

    Step-by-Step Disassembly

    1. Loosen the table top handle by turning it counterclockwise to release it from the horizontal arm. Remove the table top and place it in a safe place.
    2. Loosen the handle that connects the horizontal arm to its pivot point at the top of the leg assembly.
    3. Turn the handle at the bottom of table leg counter-clockwise to remove the leg assembly from the mounting bracket.  
    4. The Lagun table is now ready to be stored in a cabinet, on a bed, or wherever works best for your space.

     

    Conclusion

    Adding a Lagun table is an easy way to create a multifunctional living space in your RV. It’s also easy to use the table in different areas of the RV, by installing a mounting bracket wherever you want to use it. This is a practical upgrade you’ll be glad you added.  

  • Before You Decide to Restore a Vintage Camper …

    Before You Decide to Restore a Vintage Camper …

    Vintage campers provide a journey back in time to the golden age of the American road trip.  With sleek lines, mid-century stylings, shining exteriors, and warm wood interiors, these blasts from the past can offer enthusiasts a way to RV in style. Ranging from fully-restored treasures to models long forgotten in some farmer’s field, the price of a vintage camper can vary as widely as its condition. Very wisely, you may wonder: “Do I have the skills and interest find, purchase, and restore a vintage camper?”

    Well, before you make your vintage dream purchase, let’s clarify a few things everyone who wants to restore a vintage camper should know — from technical terms to the tools and expertise required.

     

    Renovating vs. Restoring a Vintage Camper

    Renovation – Blending Vintage with Modern

    It’s important to start here, because there is a real difference between renovation and restoration. Renovation attempts to stay true to the vintage aesthetic while including some modern conveniences. With our remodel of our 1957 Sportcraft 15’  canned ham camper (aka Hamlet), we chose to renovate. That meant keeping the 1950’s era look. We went with bright interior colors, a black and white floor, original baby blue countertops, a wood interior, et cetera.  But we also wanted our camper to be functional for everyday use. So, we updated some lighting, added a 12-volt fan/vent/ We also added some other modern technology, as well as introduced plenty of storage on the inside!

     

     

    Restoration – Returning to the Original Condition

    Alternatively, restoration attempts to bring a camper back to its original condition. Personally, following that approach would have had us scouring old magazines and online advertisements to make sure that we got the right style of gas lanterns for the inside. Or trying to source restored foldable horsehair bench seat cushions for the dinette. It is all possible, of course. You just need to decide how much time and energy you want to spend as you restore a vintage camper.

    Consider your goals and how you intend to use the camper. Do you want to simply show it off at vintage camper rally weekends? Or do you want to travel extensively with it?  Do you want to use it the same way you might a modern camper? Or are you dedicated to bringing an original piece of history back to life?

     

     

    Understanding Throwback Terminology

    Whether restoring or renovating, be prepared to get a lot of questions when you finally roll away from your driveway. Among one of our most frequent; “Hey! Is that camper old, or is it new made to look old?”  

    To be fair, some of the lingo we use for vintage campers sounds synonymous. (And all that is fine conversationally.) But as a buyer, you do want to have firm grasp on throwback terminology — and to verify if the term in a listing was intended that way. So, here’s some quick terminology to sort out some of the accepted definitions for older and older-looking RVs:

    • Retro. New construction designed to look old (for our old friend with the question above)
    • Classic. More than 20 years old
    • Vintage. Made from 1946 to 1969 (the mid-century period before plastic laminate)
    • Antique. 1945 or earlier (lots of different makes and models still kicking around out there … which is awesome)

     

    Identifying the Tools — and Experience — Needed

    Like anything in life, if you can dream it, you can do it! If you have done work on your house or car, you already have about 90 percent what it takes. You may need to hire out for some things, but you can probably DIY most of it.

    However, realistically, if you haven’t done any construction work previously, your learning curve might be steep! So, you have a choice. Either forge ahead and learn. Or hire a restorer. (Or at the very least, make good friends with someone who has the skills that you lack. Remember, a six-pack of beer and pizza still goes a long way towards making friends.)

    • Essential skills. Ingenuity, creativity, patience, and resourcefulness
    • Basic hand tools. Pliers, wrenches, socket set, hammer, screwdrivers, 5-in-1 tool, cordless drill and charger, palm sander, car buffer/polisher, painting tools, caulk gun and scrapers
    • Power tools. Table saw, skill saw, and chop saw

    We did 95 percent of our renovation ourselves then hired out for a few things we didn’t have the time, skills, or tools to do. These included fabricating a new storage cabinet door, replacing the axle, and adding electric brakes.

     

      

    Figuring Out Where to Begin

    While much of this depends on the weather and the season, where to start depends on how much work needs to be done. If it’s a complete teardown, you may need to begin with the outside. But, if it just needs some updating, fixing, and polishing, you may want to start with the inside. (Because it was still winter when we started our renovation, we started on the inside first.)

    Another major consideration is where you are going to do the work. We used our driveway, but wished we’d had a carport or covered area to work under as it would have made doing work in nasty weather a whole lot easier.  

    Finally, it’s important to do an honest assessment of the time you have available. Many newbies bite off a bit more than they can chew, leaving half finished projects sitting in their yard. It took us about six months of nights and weekends over about one and half years. Had we focused solely on the renovation project —and had not been working 60 hours per week and downsizing our home — we probably could have done it in six to eight weeks of very focused work.

     

    Begin Again Is Your Anthem

    No matter where you find your vintage camper or in what condition you find it, whether you’re going to bring it back to life, or add new modern features to an old relic, the best way to restore a vintage camper is to simply … begin. (And begin again!) Stay tuned for additional vintage camper resources and inspiration from us in the weeks to come!

  • Help! My RV Is Freezing

    Help! My RV Is Freezing

    If I’m being honest, winter camping has brought my wife and I some of the fondest and most stressful memories in RV life. Winter camping in an RV can be magical — snow-dusted forests, cozy nights by the heater, and the tranquility of off-season travel. But when your RV starts to feel like an icebox, the dream can quickly turn into a chilly nightmare. No one is enjoying anything if their RV is freezing.

    Whether you’re braving subzero temperatures or facing an unexpected cold snap, this guide will help you tackle freezing conditions and keep your RV warm, functional, and comfortable.

     

    Why Is My RV So Cold?

    RVs are not always built with harsh winter conditions in mind. Thin walls, minimal insulation, and draft-prone windows make it easy for the cold to seep in. Add to that any gaps or cracks in seals, and your RV can feel more like a refrigerator than a cozy home. But don’t worry — there are plenty of solutions to keep the cold at bay.

     

    Step 1: Inspect your RV for drafts and leaks.

    Cold air creeping in through cracks and seals is one of the main culprits when it feels like your RV is freezing. Start by inspecting these critical areas.

    • Windows and Doors. Look for drafts and gaps around frames. Use weather stripping or non-sag to create a tight seal. If you want to know what sealants to use in different situations, you check out this RV sealant article. 
    • Roof and Vents. Examine your roof seams and vents for cracks or deteriorating sealant. Self-leveling sealants are a go-to solution for patching these areas. 
    • Slide-Outs. Check the seals around your slide-outs for damage or wear. Flexible sealants can quickly fill in any gaps and flex with movement.

    Pro Tip: Use a flashlight or incense stick to detect drafts. Shine the light or waft the smoke near seals. If you see light or the smoke moves, you’ve found your culprit.

     

    Step 2: Add insulation where it matters most.

    Insulating your RV is crucial to fighting those freezing temperatures. Here are some quick upgrades to help trap the heat.

    • Windows: Cover windows with reflective insulation like Reflectix to prevent heat loss. For added coziness, hang thermal curtains or shades.
    • Underbelly. If your RV will be parked for an extended period of time and has an exposed underbelly, add foam board insulation or skirting to block cold air from circulating underneath.
    • Vents and Skylights. Foam vent cushions can help seal off these areas, which are often significant sources of heat loss.
    • Floors. Use small area rugs or mats to insulate floors and create another layer between your feet and the cold floor.

    Pro Tip: Even something as simple as a draft stopper or “door snake” under your entry door can make a big difference.

     

    Step 3: Heat your RV efficiently.

    The key to staying warm isn’t just generating heat — it’s keeping it from escaping. Here are the best ways to heat your RV.

    • Furnace. Your built-in furnace and is your first lines of defense, but furnaces can drain propane quickly. Make sure they are well-maintained and use propane sparingly, because in some cases it is your only heating and cooking source.
    • Heat Pump. Some rigs have a heat-pump combo with their A/C unit, and if you have a good generator or are connected to shore power, they can be a great source of warmth.
    • Portable Heaters. Electric space heaters are a great backup for maintaining warmth in small areas. Look for energy-efficient models with safety features like tip-over protection. Know that they draw a lot of power, so if you are off grid, then always monitor your battery levels.
    • Heated Accessories. Heated mattress pads or blankets can make your sleeping area toasty without overworking your furnace. A regular heating pad that you find at a pharmacy is also a cheap but effective option for warming up under the covers at a lower electric draw.

    Pro Tip: Use a combination of heating sources to distribute warmth evenly while conserving energy. Know that propane and electricity can drain quickly if you are off-grid and using these methods. So, setting the temperature for a bearable level like 60 and wearing layers helps to conserve resources. 

     

    Step 4: Protect your water system from freezing

    Frozen pipes and tanks are a winter camper’s worst nightmare. Here’s how to keep your water system functional.

    • Heated Hoses. Invest in a heated water hose to keep your fresh water flowing. Plug it in before temperatures drop.
    • Tank Heaters. Install heating pads on your freshwater, gray, and black tanks. These will prevent freezing even in frigid conditions.
    • Insulate Exposed Pipes: Wrap exposed pipes in foam insulation or heat tape to keep them from freezing.

    Pro Tip: If it’s particularly cold, leave a faucet dripping slightly to keep water moving through the system and prevent freezing.

     

    Step 5: Plan for power and propane.

    I touched on this before, but keeping your RV warm in freezing temperatures often means relying on power and propane. Here’s how to stay prepared.

    • Stock Up. Always carry extra propane tanks if possible and/or fill up often to prevent running out.
    • Monitor Usage. Track your propane and power levels closely so you never run out of heat or battery power.
    • Portable Power. A good solar/battery setup or portable generators can help ensure you’re never left without power for heaters, electric blankets, et cetera.

     

    Step 6: Stay comfortable inside.

    Finally, don’t forget about creature comforts to make your RV feel like home, even when the weather outside is frightful.

    • Layer Up. Wear several layers of clothing to stay warm without overworking your heating system.
    • Hot Drinks or soup. For us, nothing beats a cup of hot coffee in the morning, but hot cocoa or tea on a cold night goes a long way in the winter—keep a thermos handy to enjoy throughout the day. Personally, I’m a big soup guy too, so any tasty soup for lunch or dinner helps warm me from the inside.
    • Extra blankets. Adding extra blankets and throws around the rig always helps, and it’s a great way to get cozy for movie night. Whether it feels like your RV is freezing, or not, it’s a good idea to keep these on-hand if you’re a four-season RVer.
    • Curtains. In some RVs, adding something as simple as curtain to separate a cold room from one that you are trying to warm can save on resources and keep the temperature where you are more comfortable.

     

    Warmly Embrace the Winter RV Adventure

    Yes, winter camping in an RV has its challenges. But with proper preparation, it’s an experience like no other. From snowmobiling Yellowstone to skiing and snowboarding just steps from our home on wheels, we have had some amazing winter RV experiences. That’s why recommend trying it — at least once. And if you follow these tips on how to insulate your rig, prep your heating sources, seal up drafts, and keep your resources in check, you will be able stay cozy and enjoy the magic of winter landscapes. Embrace the adventure, and remember: A well-prepped RV is a happy RV, even when the temperatures dip below freezing!

  • Questions Every All-Weather Camper Should Ask

    Questions Every All-Weather Camper Should Ask

    Come winter, every RVer is looking at one of three choices. You can winterize your RV and store it for the winter and let it enjoy liberation. Second, you can fly south toward warmer parking spots in the great snowbird migration. Or thirdly, you can stick it and enjoy the spectacular and solitary splendor of winter camping. But if you’re going to go with Door No. 3, you need to make sure you have an all-weather camper that can handle the elements.

    So,, whether you’re shopping for a new RV or trying to determine the cold-weather viability of your current one, you need to ask some questions. Specific ones. Because if you plan to take your RV into nature’s freezer, you need to be dead sure that it can handle what’s coming.

    Which leads us to a simple but very important question.

     

    Really consider: What is winter?

    This might sound like a ridiculous thing, but remember: I don’t know you. Or, more specifically, where you live or plan to camp. Location has an enormous impact on what winter looks like. Recently, I wrote an article on fish house RVs. These specialized trailers are designed to be used on frozen lakes where temperatures can get well into the sub-zero range. Yet some of these trailers will happily provide hot and running water. All this to say, the conditions you’re hoping to camp in can make a tremendous difference in how your RV performs. 

    In New Mexico, where I live, the nights can get into the teens at the very coldest times,  but then days warm up to the 40s and even 50s. Knowing that overnight temperatures are occasionally below the point where water freezes (32 degrees Fahrenheit), I’m not worried. But if temps routinely stay below the point of freezing, that presents a bigger challenge. And if the temperatures are well below the point of freezing, that’s a different discussion altogether.

    Knowing the kind of conditions you’re going to be facing when it comes to cold can help you make a decision on what to prioritize. 

     

    Take cold-weather stickers with a grain of salt.

    Despite the fact that most RVs are made in Indiana (where temps can get well below freezing), there really isn’t an industry standard for winter-ready campers. While many RV companies will put a bragging sticker on their RVs — that might be something like Arctic Package, Polar Package or any other branding — that effectively has no actual industry-wide meaning. That’s not to say that those RVs don’t have great, custom-designed, winter-tested features. They probably do. But it also means that the manufacturer is making their own certification. (Which most will brag about and explain in detail on their site. Which is actually very helpful.)

    All that being said: Don’t worry. You can easily figure out how well your RV is set-up for winter and we have those tips here. 

     

    Ask about the manufacturer’s testing process.

    There are a handful of companies that I’m aware of that actually test how well an RV can do in both freezing and high-temperature environments. One of those companies is Keystone RV who have their own climate chamber. Another is Truma, a German-based component supplier. 

    The limiting factor here for Truma is that they will gladly run a manufacturer’s RV through their climate testing chamber, but the RV company does need to use Truma components. The test they perform is pretty exhaustive. They’ll get an RV down to sub-freezing temperatures and then see how quickly their systems can raise the temps to comfortable levels. So, if your RV came with Truma components, it’s a great question to ask the manufacturer if the RV has been through this process.

    Another company that tests and certifies their RVs is Jayco. Jayco sends their trailers to a climate testing facility that RV supplier Dometic owns to certify the winter-readiness of their rigs. 

    There may be other RV companies who have found a way to test their RVs and, if they’re willing to certify those results, that should certainly gain a lot of favor with you as a potential all-weather camper buyer. But there are RV companies who build very robust winter-ready units that don’t provide certifications at all. Which is fair, because there is no industry-wide standard.

     

    Testing an Ember RV in the Truma climate chamber.

     

    Understand PEX plumbing has winter-resistant limits.

    RVs are now almost all plumbed with PEX pipes. PEX is a plastic-like plumbing material that is pretty good at resisting damage in some freezing conditions. But the ability for a PEX pipe to withstand the cold, again, depends on how cold. 

    And, oftentimes, the failure point isn’t as much the pipe as the fittings. The RV industry is notorious for using low-quality fittings and that’s typically the failure point of an RV’s plumbing system. 

     

    Inquire how the heated underbelly is heated.

    Many RVs state that the underbellies of these RVs are heated and that’s a true statement when they make that claim. But know that this heat is provided by the furnace, so you have to be running that. In many cases if you’re comfortable inside the RV, the holding tanks are protected by the furnace. 

    But many RVers choose to use electric space heaters instead of the furnace. Which will mean that the enclosed underbelly isn’t benefitting from the furnace’s heat. While an RV’s furnace can certainly have a thirst for propane, this could be partially due to the fact that it’s doing extra duty heating the underbelly. 

     

    Now, get your checklist of questions ready.

    If you’re shopping for an RV that’ll stand-up to winter’s chill, here are some of the questions I would look for and use as a guide.

     

    How are the outdoor shower fittings protected? 

    Many RVs simply have a thin plastic door over the outdoor shower. A few have an insulated compartment door. There are fifth wheels that put the outdoor shower fittings into the heated front compartment. 

    Remember: This isn’t about you taking an outdoor shower in the cold of winter. It’s about the exposure of the fittings (which house water) to freezing temperatures. The fact is that the outdoor shower fittings can be the weakest link in an otherwise winter-ready RV.

    If the RV you have doesn’t have a way to protect the outdoor shower, consider adding shut-off valves before the water gets to the outdoor shower. 

     

    How are the sewer/gate valves protected? 

    No matter how well the holding tanks are insulated from the cold, if the sewer or gate valves (or fullway termination valve) is exposed to the elements, that’s where you’re going to have issues. Some RVs have these enclosed in the underbelly of the trailer so they don’t freeze. Which is a big thing to ask about if you’re shopping for an all-weather camper.

    If your current RVis not enclosed in the underbelly, you might pour some RV-safe antifreeze into the black and gray tanks after you’ve dumped them. This will cause the pipe that extends into the elements to at least have antifreeze in it. 

     

    Are there tank heating pads?

    Many newer RVs have holding tanks with 12-volt heating pads on them. These are pretty nifty because they activate once the temperatures hit a certain point. (Often around 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below.) So, even if you leave the switch for these turned on, they don’t draw power unless it gets cold enough. 

    If you have these, there’s usually a switch on or near the control panel to activate them. If you don’t, they’re not horribly difficult to install. They simply stick to the holding tanks. But they can only do so much as these are essentially a pretty thin sticker of heat that doesn’t provide incredible warmth, though it’s not bad. 

     

    Does this RV have an enclosed underbelly?

    More and more RVs, even many budget-focused travel trailers, have enclosed underbellies. In the simplest case. all an enclosed underbelly means is that there is a layer of what looks like plastic cardboard that encloses the underside of the trailer. This may provide minimal insulation but doesn’t provide much. 

     

    Is the enclosed underbelly heated? And if so, how?

    In many cases, larger and higher-end RVs come with a heated and enclosed underbelly. This is a next-level step as it takes the enclosed underbelly and provides heat into the space. The way this is accomplished is with a specific duct from the furnace into the underbelly compartment. This can make a big difference in how cold the temperatures can be before you have to worry about freezing pipes. 

    But, again, there’s no universal standard so some underbelly compartments are simply covered with the corrugated plastic, which is that plastic cardboard-looking material, and some have further insulation. Asking how the underbelly is constructed therefore can also be enlightening.

     

    OK, but what if I already have an RV I love? Can it become an all-weather camper?

    This is common, so if you’re reading this and you already have the RV you love, you have company. And the good news is that there are indeed ways to protect your RV’s plumbing system. 

    First of all, if you’re only using the RV occasionally, you can still camp in a winterized RV. While you won’t be able to take advantage of the plumbing systems in that RV, the rest of the rig will be fine to use. (Which may not be ideal, but it is possible.) Of course, many of us buy an RV so we have a toilet in the middle of the night. If your RV is winterized you could flush the toilet with RV antifreeze, which will help keep the contents of the black tank from freezing. 

    If you’re camping for a longer period of time, many RVers will put some sort of barrier around the bottom of their RVs. From cardboard to hay bales and even specifically-designed inflatable solutions, RVers have reported that blocking the winds from blowing under their RVs is a good way to help keep things from freezing. 

     

    A Rockwood GeoPro with a skirted underbelly.

     

    In addition to blocking the pathway of the winds, some RVers also place a small electric heater under their RVs after they’ve put a wind barrier. But use caution so that you don’t create a hazardous situation doing this. 

    Of course if you have a heated underbelly favor using the furnace, so that it can do it’s job. (We keep an eye on our propane tank levels with these propane tank monitors.)

    Again, depending on conditions, a heated water hose could solve the problem of keeping the water flowing from an outside source. But some RVers just fill their freshwater holding tank and use that. 

  • Evaluating the Enclosed Underbelly of an RV

    Evaluating the Enclosed Underbelly of an RV

    If you’ve been shopping for an four-season RV, you’ve probably heard the term enclosed underbelly. Beyond the idea of an RV hiding its #DadBod, the exact image this conjures up for new buyers just may be … a bit vague. Yes, we know it’s supposed make the RV warmer. But what does it really mean when an RV has an enclosed underbelly? Also, does this guarantee that it’ll be great for winter camping?

    Well, don’t sweat. We have some answers on what an enclosed underbelly can mean to each RV. And, even better, we’ll share some things you should look for, particularly if you are considering camping in colder climates. 

     

    What is an enclosed underbelly? (Asking for a friend.)

    The way an RV is built might be a surprise for new buyers. (Or even ones.) It’s probably different than some people assume. If we’re talking about towable RVs, like fifth wheels and travel trailers, typically the chassis arrives at the RV manufacturer’s assembly line in bare form. From there, it is typically flipped over, and holding tanks, plumbing, and wiring are installed. Being upside down makes it easier for the team to put these items in. In some cases, the suspension and wheels are also put on at this point. 

    Once everything is in place, it had been traditional that the chassis was flipped over. And then the rest of the assembly process proceeds. But, as we’ve become better consumers and demanded more of our RVs, many RV makers go an extra step here. 

    In some cases, a climate barrier is put on under the tanks. Then a plastic material (that looks like plastic cardboard) finishes it all off. The space between the underside of the RV itself and the floor that you walk on is called the underbelly and basically occupies the space between the frame rails. 

     

    RVs are built from the inside out. The underbelly resides between the floor and underside of the chassis. This photo is from an Alliance RV factory tour.

     

    So, what’s included in an enclosed underbelly?

    Once again, it’s important to know that RV companies each choose their own processes and systems. So, there isn’t an industry standard for what goes into an enclosed underbelly. Some RV companies take elaborate steps to keep the holding tanks from freezing. Others don’t. So, it’s natural for you to find yourself asking questions, and comparing brands and options. Which is better: arctic package or four-seasons package or … this other one?

    Despite the fact that most RVs are made in Indiana (where temps can get well below freezing), there really isn’t a standard for winter-ready campers. While many RV companies will put a bragging sticker on their RVs that might be arctic package, polar package, or any other branding, that effectively has no actual meaning. (Speaking broadly, of course, across the industry.)

     

    What’s under an enclosed underbelly? Take a look.

     

    How can I find out what an RV model has?

    If it’s important to you that your RV is protected from the weather, particularly the cold, then your best bet is to go to the RV manufacturer. (Especially versus a dealership.) Some of them will have a diagram of how their RVs are built. (Some even with cool specifics.) So, if you’re shopping for your next RV, check the RV manufacturer’s website. If they have a great cold-weather package, odds are that they will — wisely — brag about it. You might also reach out to the company itself. Som RV companies even still disseminate information via printed brochures, which you can request. 

    Of course, a well-informed RV dealership may also be able to provide accurate information. But, as with many things, even if you accept their word still verify the information they share with you. And the manufacturer is the best place to do that.

     

    Here’s a cross-section of an underbelly, courtesy of Grand Design RV.

     

    What features should I ask about?

    Let’s start with the basics. It’s pretty standard that an all-weather camper will have  a layer of insulation and what is called a radiant barrier. (This looks somewhat like a sheet of aluminum foil.) But some RV companies go beyond this. 

    In some cases, an RV manufacturer will install holding tank heating pads. These pads are typically operated by the 12-volt system in your RV and can provide some heat to the holding tanks. That way, the contents don’t freeze. 

    Many times these heating pads are temperature-activated, so that they only come on when the temps in an underbelly go below a certain point. That temperature is often around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. (Or 5 degrees Celsius.) If your RV has this feature, you can often just leave the tank heaters turned on if there’s a chance of colder temperatures. The heating pads will activate as necessary. 

     

    Heating Pad Nuances

    Almost always, there will be a switch someone on or near your other RV controls that activates and deactivates these heating pads. Many RVs state that the underbellies of these RVs are heated, and that’s a true statement when they make that claim. But know that this heat is provided by the furnace, so you have to be running that. 

    If your RV has this built in and if you’re comfortable inside the RV, the holding tanks are protected by the furnace. But many RVers choose to use electric space heaters instead of the furnace. That will mean that the enclosed underbelly isn’t benefitting from the furnace’s heat. While an RV’s furnace can certainly have a thirst for propane, this could be partially due to the fact that it’s doing extra duty heating the underbelly. 

     

    Are there downsides to an enclosed underbelly?

    The climate barriers built into many RV’s underbellies can keep the living space of the RV more comfortable. They provide a climate barrier between the outside world and the interior of the RV. In fact, it’s pretty unusual that I look at any RV, and the holding tanks are exposed to the elements. (Interestingly, that wasn’t true even a few years ago.)

    But one of the downsides to these enclosed underbellies is that, if there is an issue, someone has to crawl under the RV and lower the underbelly material. Often this is screwed right into the frame. 

    From there, you’ll have to battle the underbelly cover. Then the radiant barrier. And then the insulation. All that just to check for leaks or other issues should you suspect something’s awry. 

    If the repair technician is you, then you get to deal with this. Even if you’re paying someone, then you’re paying their hourly rate to deal with all this. 

     

    California RV specialists hunt for a leak within an enclosed underbelly.

     

    If you’re four-season camping, it’s the right decision.

    Since there is no one standard for what an RV company does when enclosing the underside of their RVs, the more you know the better off you’ll be. While there are some disadvantages to having the underbelly enclosed, the advantages far outweigh those in most cases. Especially if you plan to be out in the elements. With an enclosed underbelly, your RV is typically more comfortable to be in. And your holding tanks are protected from the elements in some fashion. 

    Being aware of what the manufacturer of your RV has done matter. That includes which materials they’ve used. And whether or not the RV has holding tank heaters. And if the furnace is ducted into the space. 

    There are absolutely RVs that are very well-suited to cold weather camping, but not all are. Knowing the difference can keep you out of hot water — or perhaps make sure that the hot water flows in your RV.