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Tag: RV Maintenance

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

    FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

    Missed RV upkeep and repair items can become costly if you do not catch them in time.

    You have made a major investment in an RV. You take great pride in keeping it clean, waxed, and properly maintained. Have you completely read, understood, and followed the information and instructions in all of the manuals for your unit? Some coaches come with encyclopedia-size booklets, others with just a thin pamphlet. Either way, numerous items require regular attention, some of which you may never have heard of or thought about. I hope that this article will encourage you to look into them.

    Some RVers cite cost as a reason they haven’t precisely followed recommendations in the manuals. However, many businesses have found it is cheaper and safer to implement a planned preventive maintenance (PM) schedule for their equipment. Even if they trade or sell their equipment often, they know that an attached PM report increases the items’ resale value.

    Imagine you are out looking at two nearly identical RVs with the same mileage. One comes with documented PM records and costs more than the one without. Which one would you purchase? If you stop to think about it, the one without records may end up costing you more during its life. First, you have to spend money to bring it up to specs before any trips. Second, items that have not been maintained properly will wear out faster than normal, use more energy, and could be dangerous.

    More often than not, overlooked maintenance items are the leading contributor to the need for emergency road repairs. You can save time, money, frustration, and maybe your marriage just by following your manuals’ recommendations. Many RVs out there receive little or no care; is yours one of them? When they do break down, it may be just a tip of the iceberg of problems to come.

    An old saying from the horse and buggy days applies to the RV lifestyle: “Rode hard and put away wet.” This means subjecting something to extremely hard use and then doing nothing to care for it when finished. Our RVs can sit for several months unused, and then they are off to the races for a weekend getaway or a coast-to-coast run. After reaching the destination, we shut them down and ignore them until the next expedition. Because of a RV’s weight and aerodynamics, the motor, transmission, cooling system, and brakes could be considered as operating in a severe-duty service whenever used. This makes preventive maintenance more important than ever, so follow the manuals’ suggestions.

    Below is a list of items that are easy to overlook. It is a little long; however, these items deserve attention before they require an expensive solution. Most manufacturers recommend them as yearly checks. Please reference your manuals, the company’s website, or its service department for specific recommendations regarding your RV and its components and accessories.

    Frame/Driveline

     

    • Batteries: Far and away, the most common battery repairs technicians make are to resolve loose connections, especially on the ground/negative side and wires. Check all terminals and frame grounds for corrosion and tightness. Wash down battery areas with a water-and-baking soda solution or an approved cleaner. Check electrolyte levels; fill with distilled water if needed, usually just enough to cover the plates.
    • Brakes’ hydraulic systems – Use test strips to check the fluid level and its moisture content. Periodic flushing is required to maintain your safety, approximately every three years or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first. Fluid does break down and can attract moisture over time from the heat generated by braking. A noticeable change in efficiency and required pedal force will occur. More importantly, the calipers and the ABS systems’ control module could be damaged, causing a very expensive repair.
    • Air systems: Drain ping/storage tanks completely every month to remove moisture. Some units have a replaceable desiccant filter that is easy to overlook but is extremely vital to brakes and suspension.
    • Pads, calipers, rotors, or drums: Check for usable life left, cracking, or glaze and make sure they all operate properly.
    • Brake lines: Check for severe rust on metal lines. Watch out for cracks or weeping on flexible lines.
    • Grease/Lubrication: Climb underneath your coach and count every zerk fitting you can find. Look at all suspension components; steering linkage, including the connection to the steering wheel; driveshaft; universal joints; transmission; clutch shafts; and tag axle. Keep this number (I have counted as many as 43) in your notes with the owners manuals. After a lube, oil, and filter service is performed, ask how many grease zerks they serviced. If it does not match your number, ask why. Then check one that is hard to find for proof of new grease! You would be amazed at how many dry ones I encounter. Some motors have grease zerks on the cooling fan assembly. Do not forget about sliders, rollers, or bearings on racks (generator, cargo, steps, propane tanks, batteries, etc.).
    • Hydraulic Slideouts And Leveling: Fill the oil level with the proper type oil and look for leaks.
    • Rear End/Differential: Refer to the coach’s chassis maintenance schedule; however, if a schedule is not available, change the fluid every 100,000 miles. Check the vent tube for blockage. Check the universal joints when greasing and replace if any looseness is detected.
    • Steering: Check fluid; change when suggested (usually three to five years).
    • Suspension: Springs, control arms, and sway bars all have bushings that can wear out. Shocks that have oil stains on them or more than 50,000 miles need to be replaced.
    • Tag Axle: Check wheel bearings for adjustment and lubrication.
    • Tires: Look for dry rot, bulges, cracking, and correct pressure. Stay away from tire dressings that make them shiny, as they tend to have silicone or petroleum-based ingredients that can accelerate tire deterioration. It’s probably best to simply wash the tires with soap and water, and rinse them thoroughly afterward.
    • Transmission: Check the fluid and filter; refer to the coach’s chassis maintenance schedule. If a schedule is not available, change at 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

    Electrical

     

    • Generator: Wash with a cleaner such as Mean Green and low-pressure water; air dry before using. Change air and fuel filters; some models have filters or screens on cooling air/compartment inlets. Gasoline types should be run once every five to six weeks under medium load, have their fuel system drained, or have Sta-Bil added to the fuel (make sure it’s in the carburetor before shutting down the gen set). Run diesel generators at least every two to three months. Warm them up, operate under a load for 10 to 15 minutes, and cool down for another three to five minutes before shutting off. This keeps the fuel fresh, lubricates the parts, and keeps the generator ready for emergencies.
    • Lights: Check all interior and exterior lights on all vehicles (towable included).
    • Shore Power Cord: Clean and wipe down with silicone spray or a product such as 303 Aerospace Protectant (do not use anything slick on coaches equipped with a cord reel).

    Engine And Compartment

     

    • Lube, Oil, And Filter: This should be a no-brainer, so remember the time intervals also; oil is your engine’s lifeblood. Follow change intervals to a tee. Stay with quality name-brand oil and filters, especially on diesel engines when new. Many diesel motors require break-in valve and injector adjustments. According to Caterpillar, Cummins, and Detroit Diesel, this first adjustment is very critical.
    • Air Conditioner: Check pressure and operation of the dash air conditioner before the season.
    • Hoses: Look for rub marks, bulges, cracks, or weeping. Secure hose clamps.
    • Serpentine/Fan Belts: Check for cracking or frayed cords. They should be changed every five to eight years/50,000 to 125,000 miles.
    • Engine Cooling/Radiators – Antifreeze: Fill and have the pH level checked. Change every three to five years/65,000 to 100,000 miles. Use only the antifreeze approved for your engine; there are differences. Diesel owners: It is vital to check the pH level and appropriate buffers.
    • Fins/fan: Carefully check, clean, and straighten cooling fins. If the fan’s blades are bent or damaged, replace the fan with a new one.
    • Filters: They are installed in places you never thought of: air, fuel, water separator, cabin, antifreeze, radiator pre-filters/screens, air compressor, crankcase.

    Exterior

    • Air Conditioner: Remove the cover of the roof air conditioner; check for mud dauber nests; clean the fins and fans of leaves, sticks, moss, and nests. You will save energy and help the unit last longer.
    • Seams: Check all seams for faulty caulk, especially the roof around antenna mounts, skylights, ladder, and vents.
    • Furnace: Remove the cover and clean. Replace filters if applicable (e.g., Aqua-Hot). Look out for mice and their nests.
    • Horns: Do they work?
    • Refrigerator Covers: Remove the outer cover and vacuum clean. Check for spiders, as they love this area. Find the black drain tube, check for obstructions, and route to drain outside of the cover.
    • Roof Maintenance: Clean, look for, and repair defects. Apply proper protection.
    • Slideout Seals: Clean and lubricate every six to 12 months.
    • Storage And Entrance Doors: Clean and lubricate seals, lifting mechanism, latches, and hinges.
    • Water Heater: Remove the bottom plug and drain the heater. Replace the anode rod. Clean the propane-heating tube. Remove the plug-in 12-volt connector and reconnect (cleans contacts).
    • Windshield Wipers: Check and replace. Better to do this now before you’re caught in a big rainstorm. Refill the washer fluid reservoir.

    Interior

    • Air Conditioner: Clean or replace filters monthly. Carefully clean/vacuum cooling fins.
    • Detectors: Change batteries in smoke, carbon monoxide, and LP-gas detectors.
    • Furnace: Remove the covers and vacuum the area clean.
    • Water Systems: Check the under-counter and ice-maker filters and replace if necessary.
    • Windshield: Clean the inside as well as the outside. Remember how hard it was to see through when driving into the sun on your last trip?

    Even though this list may appear overwhelming, the items are not all due at once. Mileage, hours, and/or age will dictate when attention is required throughout the year and life cycle of your RV.

    Consult this checklist when searching for a used RV. Finding one with documented PM schedules included generally indicates the entire rig was properly maintained. If you purchase one with a questionable service record, either you’ll become handy at repairs or spend a lot of money for someone who is.

    If purchasing an older RV with low mileage, or if you let yours sit unused for extended periods, think about this: mechanical items are designed for use on a regular basis. Using them as they were intended to be used generally makes them last longer, with fewer problems, than those you don’t use regularly.

    Think about our own bodies. When we exercise regularly, we feel better, move around easier, are more alert, and are less prone to injuries and arthritis. Usually we spend less on health care as a result. If we stop exercising, we gain weight, slow down, and acquire more aches and pains; medical expenses and time spent at the doctor rises dramatically. The same thing happens with your RV. This can become a vicious cycle.

    Stop exercising your RV and the seals in the motor, rear, and steering dry out and shrink because oil drains off them. Oil drains off motor parts, causing rust and stuck valves. Additives in the oil break down even with age, allowing suspended acids and damaging particles to settle on critical parts. Tires will dry rot and crack, because they depend upon movement to excrete protective agents to block this. Transmission internals can rust and clutch packs go dry. Brakes can rust or seize up, lock up a wheel, or generate enough heat from dragging to burn out a wheel bearing. Brake, fuel, and air lines can rust through from condensation in the storage area. Critters and insects love to make nests in stationary RVs.

    You’ve probably heard some RVers say, “Hey, I start mine and let it idle once a month.” Just starting the motor and letting it idle can do more damage than good, but that’s for another time and article.

  • Deep Cleaning Your RV, Inside & Out

    Deep Cleaning Your RV, Inside & Out

    Summer is just around the corner—and with it, some of the best camping of the year. While the coronavirus has put many vacation plans on hold, you’ll want to be ready to go when campgrounds reopen. With all this extra time on your hands, there’s truly no better time to deep clean your RV.

    Ready to get your RV in order? We’ve put together a list of tips and tricks to get your RV super shiny and clean, so all you’ll have to do is pack and turn the key when it’s time to hit the road again.

    Let’s start with a few tips on cleaning the inside of your RV.

    Inside:

    • Mold can grow just about anywhere when your RV isn’t being used. Wipe down ceilings, walls, hard surfaces, and appliances with a multi-surface cleaner that is EPA registered to disinfect and remove bacteria, viruses, mold, and other allergens. Choose one that is safe for your whole interior, including finished wood, granite, and stainless steel.
    • Let’s face it—most of us have no idea what is in the back of our RV’s drawers, cabinets, and closets. Now’s the time to empty, vacuum, and wipe out storage areas. Haven’t used an item in a couple of years? Get rid of it. And toss out any old or expired foods or spices. Not sure if that mac and cheese is still safe to eat? Get the USDA’s FoodKeeper app for shelf-life guidelines.
    • With use, cabinet pulls get surrounded by a buildup of oil and dirt. Mix 2 parts baking soda and 1 part coconut or vegetable oil and use an old toothbrush to gently scrub away the gunk.
    • Strip and wash bedding, vacuum the mattress, and spray with an aerosol disinfectant before remaking the bed.
    • Window tracks, valances, blinds, and cloth lampshades all capture dust and dirt. For tracks, vacuum with a thin nozzle, then dip Q-tips in white vinegar or window cleaner and wipe out every nook and cranny. Vacuum blinds, valances, and lampshades with a soft brush, then go over with an adhesive lint roller.
    • Still see signs of last year’s vacation on your carpet and couches? Begin by removing small spots with a damp, soapy cloth. For hard-to-remove grease stains (think pizza), scrape with a knife, then layer paper towels on top of the stain. Using the lowest heat setting, iron the paper towels to lift the grease, then gently scrub the spot with a mix of dish soap, white vinegar, and water. Finish your routine by steam cleaning.
    • To flush your freshwater system lines, connect a clean water hose to your home’s outdoor faucet and connect the other end to your RV city water connection. Open your gray tank, turn on all the faucets, and run until the water looks, smells, and tastes clean. Use an RV freshwater deodorizer to flush your freshwater tank.
    • Smell something? It could be dried waste stuck to the sides and sensors in your black water holding tank. Some campers swear by the ice method—dump a few buckets of ice cubes down the toilet, then drive along and let the ice clean the sides. For a proven fix, purchase a wand-style tank rinser, hook up to a hose or faucet, and lower into the tank to wash away debris. For tanks mounted directly under the toilet, get a straight wand. If you have bends in your plumbing or an offset tank, choose a flexible wand.

    Outside:

    • Start at the top. For fiberglass roofs, use a soft brush, hose, and any wash-and-wax product to remove grime. While you’re up there, look for any loose or cracked sealant and follow the manufacturer’s directions to remove old caulking and repair. If you have an older RV with a rubber roof, you’ll need specific rubber roof cleaning products.
    • Know what you’re made of – metal or fiberglass. For painted or polished metal bodies, use a pre-wash to remove grime and grit, then clean with a non-abrasive cleaner, soft-bristled brush, and microfiber cloth or mitts. High-pressure washing is not recommended because these RVs are clad and riveted, and water can seep in between the seams. For fiberglass, use a wash-and-wax product with UV protection. Again, beware of the high-pressure washer—it can damage slideout seals and peel exterior decals. For seriously faded decals, gently scrub with a wet no-scratch fiberglass pad. This will brighten them but also shorten their lifespan.
    • Use a silicone-based cleaner on all window, door, and slide-in gaskets or flexible weather sealants. Most spray on and don’t require any wiping or additional cleaning. Don’t neglect your awnings—they need a rinse, too. Extend and hose off, but don’t scrub—it can weaken fabric and remove protective finishes.

    Before tackling any cleaning jobs, check your owner’s manual for specific recommendations. Remember, spring cleaning is an opportunity to look for any problems and give your RV the attention it deserves. And considering we all have a bit of extra time on our hands, let’s use it to our advantage. A little TLC now equals comfortable, worry-free vacations in the months ahead. Happy cleaning!

    Have any cleaning tips of your own? Let us know your methods in the comments below.

    Ready for a new RV instead? Check out our newest inventory.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Exterior Maintenance

    FMCA Tech Tip: Exterior Maintenance

    Keep your RV exterior looking its best with these tips from FMCA and the “RV Doctor” Gary Bunzer. Take pride in your home on wheels!

    RV Exterior Tip #1: The Roof

    Get into the habit of inspecting the RV exterior once a month, with special attention given to the roof. Examine the seams, edges, moldings, caps, and anything else attached to the roof. Any screw or mounting method used on the roof can become an entry point for moisture. Water intrusion is the largest threat to any RV.

    Small problems will not go away on their own. Left unaddressed, small problems will only worsen and quickly move (along with their associated cost) from the preventive maintenance stage. So follow these steps to manage small problems:

    • Keep the roof clean. Use a soft broom every couple of weeks to sweep away leaves, dirt, and road grime.
    • Look closely for evidence of mold and mildew, especially on synthetic surfaces.
    • Remove bird droppings or tree sap as soon as it is spotted.
    • Wash the roof with the appropriate cleaning agent four or five times each year. A clean roof is simply easier to inspect!

    And, finally, know what material forms your RV’s roof. Use products that are safe for your RV’s roof surface material.

    RV Exterior Tip #2: Sidewalls

    Likewise, learn what material is used on the exterior of your RV’s sides. Is it painted aluminum? Fiberglass? Filon or another FRP derivative? ABS or PVC plastic? Are steel components used? If you own a Type C motorhome, don’t forget about the cab portion and its exterior surface.

    Scan the sides of your RV and start counting how many components are attached: storage bay doors, refrigerator vents, furnace vents, city water inlet, etc. Every attachment point is a potential source for a water leak.

    Inspect all seals around the sidewall openings. At the first sign of a deteriorating sealant, reseal! In severe cases, it may be necessary to completely remove the component and reinstall using fresh sealant. In other cases, a quick but correct application of a silicone sealant over the suspected gap may be all that is required.

    Next, check for black streaks. Unfortunately, every RV is susceptible to those nuisance black streaks caused by four elements: dirt, moisture, time, and neglect. This video explains how these streaks form and how to remove them.

    When using any type of black streak remover, never apply the solution directly to the surface of the sidewall. Moisten a clean, soft cloth with the remover and try to keep within the boundaries of the black streak. All black streak removers contain components that will remove existing wax, so areas treated with the remover will need to be re-waxed.

    Unless the black streak is deep-seated and has become oxidized, it eventually should come off or at least be minimized. If the black streak has oxidized into the finish, other products exist that can address this specific type of problem. But, remember, it’s crucial to use a product compatible with your RV’s exterior surface to prevent further damage – read those labels!

    RV Exterior Tip #3: Fiberglass Caps

    Many RVs have some form of plastic caps covering their front or rear ends. Over time and with exposure to UV rays and ozone, the appearance of these fiberglass caps can become dull or fade to a certain extent. This is the first degree of oxidation. Whenever sunlight, heat, and moisture collide, oxidation can be expected.

    The second level of oxidation results in a pronounced chalking of the finish. You’ve probably seen front and rear caps that display a distinct, blotch-like chalky residue that can be wiped away with a moist rag. Neglected further, the cap surface eventually can crack and deteriorate and, in the process, cross the line between restorative maintenance and damage repair. If individual fibers become visible in the fiberglass, it may require a repair out of the DIYer’s realm.

    Fiberglass front and rear caps must be protected with wax or polish. Plain old car wash soap is a good option because it does not remove wax as detergents do. Polish is similar to wax, but some polishes and polishing compounds actually contain trace amounts of abrasives.

    RV Exterior Tip #4: Undercarriage

    The underneath surface of the RV is the “forgotten” exterior surface. The main concern is critter infestation. Look for large gaps around exposed plumbing that may pass through the floor and subfloor. It’s important to seal around all gaps that can trap moisture and road debris.

    Look for loose or damaged sections of the underbelly, regardless of the types of materials used under there. Some RVs have sealed underbellies, while other RVs may be open to the bottom of the subfloor. Others may have only a soft plastic wrap encasing the floor insulation. Look for anything that appears out of the norm. While you’re down there, check all chassis and suspension components for damage or irregularities, and look for evidence of water leaks. If you use the RV in winter conditions where salt is used on the roads, check for rust.

    For more RV exterior maintenance tips, visit Family RVing magazine.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

     
     
  • FMCA Tech Tip: 5 Tips to Make RV Service Less Stressful

    FMCA Tech Tip: 5 Tips to Make RV Service Less Stressful

    It’s time again for RV service. You explain your problem to the service writer, sign the repair order, grab a cup of coffee and wait. And wait, and wait and wait.

    Within the realm of RV repair facilities, time equates to dollars, especially for those non-warranty invoices. It stands to reason that if you can help speed up the diagnostic period, you, the RV owner, will save money and time in the long run. Here are five items that any RV owner can do to help save money and time while helping provide a roadmap for the service shop to follow.

    1. Record All Identifying Numbers

    Keep a list of your RV’s brand names, models numbers, serial numbers, and spec numbers. Your dealer or service center will be able to rapidly transfer the necessary numbers to service orders and avoid having to track down records located in hard to reach places. Additionally, the service writer will be able to identify appliances and devices that may be under recall.

    Here is a sample form to get started. Download now: RV Records Template 

    2. Organize a Repair History of Your RV

    Gather any receipts, warranty forms and repair invoices for work completed on your RV. If you are like most people, you’ve lost some, stuffed some in a storage compartment, or maybe put some in a box subconsciously thinking you might need them someday.

    Try to develop a plan for the safekeeping of these documents. At the very least, keep your paperwork in a three-ring binder arranged in chronological order. If a service writer can quickly scan your repair history and find a specific trend, it may help speed up the time spent in the shop.

    Besides, a detailed and chronological record of repairs and services shows you have taken care of your RV. This simple recordkeeping could possibly add to your RV’s resale value.

    3. List All Add-On Components

    Similar to the previous item, this one suggests you maintain a list of all after-market accessories that have been installed. Not only does it provide a detailed account of how you have increased the value of your rig, it could also save troubleshooting time.

    4. Look for the Obvious

    Once it’s apparent that something is not quite right with your RV, do yourself a favor and perform a little inspection. Look for obvious signs that something may be amiss:

    • Stains or discolorations
    • Water pooling or dripping
    • Burned wires
    • Broken hardware
    • Fuel dripping
    • Missing components
    • Disconnected or loose wires
    • Cracked fittings

    Your assertiveness to “look for the obvious” might save you money and put you back on the road that much quicker.

    5. Document the Exact Specifics

    This one takes a little more effort on your part. Whenever a symptom develops, begin to write down specific aspects that pertain to it. You know your RV best – pass that knowledge on to the service facility.

    Start with the basics:

    • Does the problem occur every time?
    • Only at night?
    • Or only after start-up?
    • Only after shut-down?
    • When you drive a certain speed?

    Note any geographical attributes at the time of the occurrence:

    • High elevation
    • Steep incline
    • Humid weather
    • Dusty conditions
    • Or maybe you only notice the problem on trips to a certain location – lake, desert, mountains, etc.

    Additionally, use your product knowledge to further pinpoint a possible cause. For instance, if you are experiencing a refrigerator problem, does the problem exist during both gas and electric operation? While driving or while parked? Only during the heat of the day or at night also? Document the specifics.

    Remember, these tips are for your best interest. The more information that can be provided to the technician, the better! When you follow these five tips, your RV’s visits to the service bay will be less stressful for everyone involved.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

     
     
  • FMCA Tech Tip: Purging RV Propane Containers

    FMCA Tech Tip: Purging RV Propane Containers

    When one or more of a motorhome’s gas-burning appliances exhibit strange, random, or difficult-to-diagnose problems, it may signal the need to purge the propane container. Brand-new propane containers also must be purged properly before being filled for the first time. So what is purging? Does it apply to all RV propane containers? How do you know if your container needs such a service? And who can do it?

    For answers, read this how-to guide from FMCA and the “RV Doctor” Gary Bunzer:

    About Propane Containers

    Before answering those questions, let’s define the term “propane container.” Most motorhomes are equipped with horizontal propane containers bolted to the frame of the coach. Typical motorhome propane containers are regulated by the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME), as documented in its Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code. A horizontal ASME container is called a tank. The capacity of an ASME tank usually is expressed in gallons.

    Some smaller Type C coaches and older motorhomes may be outfitted with upright propane containers installed in a side compartment; it’s the same type of container usually found on towable RVs or in home gas barbecue grills. Such containers (which can be vertical or horizontal) are called cylinders, and are governed by the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) within the agency’s Hazardous Materials Regulations. Cylinders destined for Canadian provinces are regulated by Transport Canada (TC). The capacity of a DOT/TC cylinder typically is measured in liquid pounds.

    So, generally speaking, an ASME tank is bolted to the coach, while a DOT cylinder is portable and replaceable. Both types of containers require purging at some point.

    Why Purge?

    New propane containers are hydrostatically tested for leaks before shipment. A container that is destined for an RV, whether it’s a tank or a cylinder, usually is filled with compressed air (or sometimes another inert gas) when it is shipped from the supplier. Air contains moisture and other contaminants. Purging removes the air, moisture, and contaminants; if the purge process is not performed before the container is filled with propane the first time, combustion problems or delivery line pressure irregularities may develop later.

    Unfortunately, most new motorhome buyers don’t know whether their propane container was properly purged prior to that first filling, since a new motorhome usually is delivered to the owner with a full (or nearly full) container of fuel. I suggest asking that question during the walk-through or before officially taking delivery. Ask to see the pre-delivery inspection (PDI) form for validation. It’s in the best interest of both the RV dealer and the buyer to have a proper purging verified in writing before the retail delivery of an RV.

    Purging applies to older propane containers as well. In fact, any time a container has been opened to the atmosphere, for any reason, a new purging must take place before refilling with fresh fuel. Say, for instance, the internal float assembly fails, or the shut-off valve leaks and that component needs to be replaced; the tank must be purged after the replacement, since air has been allowed to enter. And that air contains moisture and perhaps other contaminants.

    The Moisture Problem

    Even a little water lying at the bottom of a propane container can be a problem. Any moisture present from the container to the inlet of the pressure regulator can cause the regulator to freeze up. There are two types of regulator freeze-up, both with negative outcomes.

    One type of regulator freeze-up occurs as the fuel in the container becomes vaporized on its pressurized path to the regulator inlet. The pressure regulator has individual sections where the fluctuating container pressure is reduced in two steps to the delivery line pressure required by the appliances. The propane vapor must pass through small orifices in these two stages in order for the pressure to be reduced sequentially and smoothly. Propane’s “boiling point” is minus 44 degrees Fahrenheit. Below that, it exists in liquid form; above that, it vaporizes. So, any remnant of water will freeze in those small internal orifices and block the flow of propane vapor through the regulator.

    The second type of regulator freeze-up happens externally during the winter months when mud or water or slush splashes up from the roadway, freezes, and blocks the second-stage atmospheric vent opening on the regulator. If the diaphragm inside the regulator cannot breathe, it cannot regulate, and it simply locks up. That’s why it’s important for the vent portion to be positioned downward and the regulator to be covered at all times during operation.

    The result of either type of regulator freeze-up is no propane flow, and the appliances will shut down just as though the container were out of fuel.

    When To Purge

    A container that has been in use for a while may need to be purged if more than one appliance has operational issues. For instance, the furnace doesn’t ignite right away; the water heater burner sputters; the cooktop burner flame lifts off the burner; or a burner flame is abnormally large or small, or more orange than blue in color. Any operational issue with an appliance is a cause for concern and should be investigated. It simply may be an out-of-adjustment regulator or an appliance in need of cleaning, but it could also be caused by moisture inside the container.

    Who To Call

    Certified and master certified RV service technicians are trained to properly purge a propane container. As an alternative, most propane retailers also can do the procedure.

    As mentioned, new tanks and cylinders typically are filled with air when shipped, but containers already in service will contain propane. In the case of the latter, before purging, it will be necessary to remove or burn off the container’s remaining propane.

    What Owners Can Do

    Since safety is paramount, FMCA recommends an annual test of the pressure regulator, as well as the entire propane gas distribution system, by a certified RV service technician. The condition of the container also should be checked. In addition, the RV owner should test the propane leak detector periodically.

    If the propane’s odorant is ever detected, immediately turn off the container’s service valve and schedule the RV for tests.

    And RVers should always keep a close eye on how well the RV’s appliances are operating. This can be your first sign of a problem.

    FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Join today and save $10 — a special offer for RV Trader readers. Learn more at https://join.fmca.com/trader18/.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Winterizing Your RV: Air vs. Antifreeze

    FMCA Tech Tip: Winterizing Your RV: Air vs. Antifreeze

    Unless you’re one of the lucky RVers heading south this time of year, fall’s cooler weather means it’s almost time to winterize your RV. The how-to of winterizing can be a hot debate (pun intended). FMCA has tips to help you decide the right option for your RV.

    About Winterizing

    Winterizing deals primarily with the plumbing system and protecting your RV from freeze damage. All water must be removed from holding tanks, water lines, and plumbing fixtures. Two methods are performed to winterize RV plumbing: using air pressure to blow moisture out of the system or pumping antifreeze through the water lines.

    Which should you use? The answer depends on where you live and the complexity of your RV’s plumbing system.

    Air

    Air is easy to use; just connect an air compressor to the water hose and blow everything out. In theory, the system will be dry. Plus, air is free, so it eliminates the need to buy bottles of antifreeze. Air pushes most of the water out, but residual water can remain in water lines’ low spots where it can freeze, expand, and cause damage.

    In a simple RV with minimal plumbing lines, using only air may not be an issue. But if you live in a place with long, cold winters, using air may not be enough to protect your RV from freeze damage.

    Antifreeze

    RV professionals consider antifreeze to be the best method for preventing freeze damage. Keep in mind that it differs from automotive antifreeze. RV antifreeze is nontoxic and is safe to use in fresh-water systems. It freezes but does not solidify. Instead, it turns to slush, which will not expand to crack fittings or water lines.

    One drawback to antifreeze is that it can be messy and requires buying a few gallons every season. It also can cause water from treated lines to taste bitter.

    More Resources

    For detailed, step-by-step instructions on the winterizing process, click here.

    Join the air vs. antifreeze debate. Check out this video from “RV Doctor” Gary Bunzer.

    FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Join today and save $10 — a special offer for RV Trader readers. Learn more at https://join.fmca.com/trader18/.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Disaster-Proof Your RV for Hurricane Season and Beyond

    FMCA Tech Tip: Disaster-Proof Your RV for Hurricane Season and Beyond

    Are you prepared for an emergency while RVing? Unfortunately, September’s history as an active month for hurricanes reminds RVers of the importance of being prepared. Read FMCA’s tips to prepare yourself for emergencies and natural disasters while RVing.

    Evacuation Safety

    Prepare two escape plans. One is for abandoning the RV when you need to get yourself and occupants out safely. The other is a plan for packing/driving the RV away when time allows you to evacuate ahead of a wildfire, hurricane, or other threatening situation.

    Pro-Tip: FMCA’s blog offers resources for evacuating from a wildfire.

    Escape Plan #1

    In the first instance, have a plan for escaping the RV in a variety of scenarios (galley fire, engine fire, RV lying on its side or roof). What is the quickest way to escape? How will you make sure all occupants are accounted for? Will one specific person be in charge of helping pets get to safety?

    In boating, a “ditch bag” is kept handy to grab just before one abandons ship into the water or a life raft. Prep your own “ditch bag” to grab in case of RV disaster.

    Pro-Tip: In your grab-and-go bag, consider including copies of important documents such as insurance policies, driver’s licenses, phone numbers, and credit cards.

    Escape Plan #2

    In the second instance, consider how you would need to evacuate the RV from a location.

    • A few points to think about as you form your plan:
    • How would you handle removing the electric, water, and sewer hookups?
    • If you drive a motorhome, consider if you’d have time to connect the towed vehicle.
    • How long does it take you to retract the awning(s), slide-out(s), and leveling jacks for a quick getaway?
    • If you or your driving partner is incapacitated, can the other person safely pack up the RV and drive you to safety?
    • Do you have a reliable AM/FM radio or weather radio to stay informed of the latest weather or road condition updates? Remember that you may lose internet connectivity in an emergency or extreme weather situation.
    • Do you have a Plan B for dealing with unexpected delays such as a stuck slide-out or sticky awning?

    Consider making an “evacuation checklist.” Decide what items absolutely must be taken care of before you can safely move the RV and what can be eliminated, sped up, or modified.

    Pro-Tip: On your evacuation checklist, list a family member or friend that you could call to let them know your emergency evacuation plans. This person can then alert other loved ones that you have safely evacuated.

    We hope you never find yourself in an emergency situation while RVing. You can’t predict the future, but you can help prepare yourself and your family by thinking about “What if?” scenarios.

    FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Join today and save $10 — a special offer for RV Trader readers. Learn more at https://join.fmca.com/trader18.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Replacing Your RV’s Air Conditioner

    FMCA Tech Tip: Replacing Your RV’s Air Conditioner

    Your RV’s air conditioner(s) lead a tough life. On the roof, they are subjected to the hottest heat that the sun can dish out. They also can be damaged by tree branches when the RV is maneuvered into a tight campsite, and they just love to pick up moisture that can lead to rust. Then add in the constant vibration and pounding from the road…eek!

    Like any component in an RV, especially those with movable parts, air conditioners don’t live forever. Eventually, you will have a failure. Minor items, such as starting capacitors, can be replaced, but the A/C unit itself is generally not serviceable.

    Fortunately, air conditioners aren’t all that hard to replace. You’ll need a few basic tools, some reflective foil tape, and some caulk. The hardest part is getting the new unit up on the roof.

    Background

    Air conditioners are designed to fit a 14-inch-square hole in the roof. That is the industry’s standard roof vent size, which makes replacement easy. Some units drop the air straight through the roof and ceiling directly into the RV’s interior; in others, air passes through ducts before entering the RV’s living areas.

    However the air is ducted, both system types use the same 14-inch-square hole in the roof, and the air conditioner is secured with four mounting screws. Power generally is run through the ceiling to the opening.

    Removing the Old RV A/C Unit

    • First, switch off the circuit breaker that supplies the 120-volt-AC power to the air conditioner so that it is safe to perform work. Set the thermostat to the “off” position, too.
    • Next, remove the existing unit, starting with the fiberglass cover. Remove the four screws that hold the cover in place.
    • In most RV air conditioners, electrical connections and components are inside the cool air plenum to help keep them cool as well. To disconnect these, remove the sheet-metal cover from the plenum. The plenum joints may be taped; if so, use a utility knife to cut the tape at the joints.
    • Disconnect the 120-volt-AC wires. Most likely, you will see the entire control box connected to the thermostat using two wing nuts. Remove the two wing nuts, and put the control box down into the plenum to get it out of the way. There may also be a temperature sensor probe inserted into the evaporator coil that can be removed.
    • Some units have a diffuser in the ceiling. The diffuser must be removed from the interior ceiling, and then the four bolts that hold the air conditioner to the roof must be removed. If there is no diffuser and your RV has a ducted ceiling instead, you will likely see screws installed from the A/C unit and tapped into the steel tube roof trusses.
    • Scrape off any old caulk from the screws, remove the screws, and slide the old A/C unit out of the way.
    • Once the old unit is removed, thoroughly clean the rooftop area.

    Installing the New RV A/C Unit

    • Once the new unit is up on the roof, maneuver it into position. This may require two people to ensure proper placement of the unit on the gasket.
    • Next, cut the foil tape and remove the screws from the new unit. This allows the sheet-metal cover to be removed to provide access to the front mounting holes, as well as the wiring.
    • On most new units, there is a foam gasket designed to compress and seal the area around the access hole so that water cannot enter the RV’s interior. Set the new unit in place and mark the location of the existing mounting holes; to match them, drill into the new air conditioner’s baseplate. (On a design without ducts, that would not be necessary, because the four bolts run right through the access hole in the roof.)
    • To finish the mount, install the four screws, taking care not to overtighten and distort the base. (Overtightening can lead to warping, which can cause leaking, excessive vibration, and fan and/or compressor noise.)
    • Apply a dab of caulk over each of the four mounting screw heads.
    • Retrieve the control box from the access hole in the roof plenum, reconnect the wiring, and place the temperature probe into the evaporator core.
    • Attach the control box to the sheet-metal cover with the two wing nuts, and reinstall the cover. After all of the sheet-metal screws are in place, cover the seams with a new roll of foil tape.
    • Before reinstalling the cover, switch the circuit breaker back on and test the unit.

    FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Join today for just $50 — a savings of $10 just for RV Trader readers. Learn more at https://join.fmca.com/trader18.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Guide to Motorhome Lubricants

    FMCA Tech Tip: Guide to Motorhome Lubricants

    Motorhomes require periodic maintenance to stay in good working order. Engine oil changes are the most common procedure, but axles, the transmission, wheel bearings, and other components also must be serviced. No oil or lubricant is one-size-fits-all, so it’s important to make the right choice for each component according to the chassis manufacturer’s specifications.

    Lubricants are designated with American Petroleum Institute (API) or military (MIL) category numbers that identify their suitability for various applications. To choose the proper lubricant, consult your motorhome’s owners manual for the prescribed API service level, and then match the lubricant’s viscosity and rating to your vehicle’s operating environment.

    Ratings

    Two ratings apply to lubricants — viscosity and quality.

    Viscosity

    Viscosity is another term for thickness. An engine is designed to utilize a specific viscosity oil for a given set of operating conditions. That’s why the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) determines viscosity grades according to a standardized numerical rating. Always check the owners manual to determine the proper engine oil viscosity for your vehicle. The larger the number, the heavier the oil. For example, an SAE 40 oil is heavier than an SAE 30 oil.

    Viscosity also denotes the ability of the oil to flow at a given temperature. As oil heats up, it thins, flows faster, and doesn’t provide the same level of lubrication as a thicker oil. If the oil is too thick, it won’t flow fast enough to lubricate critical components. SAE ratings reflect the ability of oil to flow at 210 degrees Fahrenheit. The ratings can be useful for determining how an oil will perform in summer, but they don’t take into account the low-temperature performance of the oil in winter. So, a second test is performed at 0 degrees Fahrenheit to assess oils designed for winter use and to designate a “W” rating. For example, 10W oil is thinner than 20W oil, but both are designed for winter use. The thinner 10W oil will flow better in colder temperatures.

    Most engine wear and tear occurs during startup when the motor is turning over but everything is cold and the pistons haven’t yet expanded to their operating tolerances. Oil begins to flow, but by the time it reaches all critical areas, the engine has been running for a few seconds. A lighter-weight oil brings the oil pressure up much faster than a thicker oil. But, once the engine is working under a heavy load, the oil becomes too thin to provide adequate lubrication. So, in the case of a single-viscosity oil, it is better to opt for a heavy oil and live with the startup wear than to use a lighter oil and pay the penalty when the engine is working really hard.

    Multiviscosity oils eliminate that dilemma. A multiviscosity oil has two ratings. For example, a 10W-30 oil provides the cold-temperature performance of a 10W winter oil, yet it retains the high-temperature performance of an SAE 30 summer oil once the engine reaches its operating temperature. This offers the best of both worlds and does a better job of protecting your engine at both startup and when under load.

    Quality

    Oil quality is determined by its chemical makeup and its imbedded additives. Base oils account for about 85 to 90 percent of the formulation. The remainder consists of additives that provide full protection, including antioxidants, viscosity modifiers, dispersants, detergents, antiwear agents, rust and corrosion inhibitors, antifoam agents, and a host of others. API established its rating system to identify the quality of every oil.

    Both API and SAE ratings are marked on every container. Consult the vehicle’s owners manual for the minimum API rating specified for your engine. You always can exceed the API ratings and use a better grade oil, but never drop below the minimum API rating.

    Check The Manual

    A proper maintenance cycle for your motorhome revolves around following the recommended service schedule and matching every component with the correct lubricant. The owners manual specifies the minimum requirements, but keep in mind that exceeding those specs with a higher-quality lubricant generally will yield greater longevity. Taking proper care of your coach will save you money in the long run and greatly improve the odds of trouble-free operation.

    FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Join today for just $50 — a savings of $10 just for RV Trader readers. Learn more at https://join.fmca.com/trader18.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: What Do I Do If My RV’s Tire Blows Out?

    FMCA Tech Tip: What Do I Do If My RV’s Tire Blows Out?

    A tire blowout is the worst fear of many RVers. What would you do if you found yourself in this situation? Read FMCA’s tips to stay safe on the road.

    Understanding Tire Failure

    According to Goodyear engineers, obstructions (nails, sharp objects, curbing) are the major causes of tire damage. However, many tire failures are caused by progressive damage.

    Each mile your tire rolls down the highway overloaded or underinflated, it may be suffering internal damage that’s not apparent during a casual tire inspection. The day that the tire fails, you may be traveling empty or not moving at all. The tire simply will reach the point where the damage has exceeded its design limits. It may blow out or shed its tread.

    Tires do not heal themselves, so if they are damaged due to underinflation, inflating them to the correct pressure may not prevent eventual failure.

    What To Do If Your Tires Fail

    If you experience a tire blowout, you better have your seat belt on because it can be a wild and bumpy ride.

    Your natural reaction is to apply the brakes, but don’t do it! Michelin Tire Company recommends briefly pushing the accelerator to the floor (if traffic conditions allow) to regain momentum in the direction you are going and then gently taking your foot off the accelerator. Hold the steering wheel firmly and regain control. If you are on an expressway, move into the far right lane as quickly and safely as possible. Allow your vehicle to slow, without applying the brakes, to 10 to 15 MPH before pulling off the road surface.

    Watch this video from Michelin, How To Handle An RV Tire Blowout.

    And — remember — the #1 tip if you find yourself in the middle of a tire blowout is to remain calm. You can’t predict the future, but you CAN prepare yourself for potential emergencies. Knowledge is power.

    FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Join today for just $50 — a savings of $10 just for RV Trader readers. Learn more at https://join.fmca.com/trader18/.

    This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.