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Tag: RV Tips

  • 5 Tips for Roadschooling

    5 Tips for Roadschooling

    Ready to take your family on the road full-time but not sure where to start? Many full-timers choose to educate their children while traveling through a growing trend called “roadschooling.” If you’re considering this alternative way of learning, check out RV Trader’s five tips for roadschooling.

    1. Check Your State’s Homeschooling Laws

    First, you’ll need to keep in mind that there are different homeschooling laws in each state. Look up the rules and regulations for your home state, as well as states you plan to visit if you’re intending to stay for an extended period of time. If you’re a full-time RVer with no permanent residence, you’ll need to establish a home state.

    2. Pick a Curriculum That Works For You

    Luckily, in this day and age, the options are endless when it comes to homeschooling curriculums. There are fully digital options, as well as physical booklets, you can utilize. Or you can do a bit of both! Determine the storage space you have for physical books, materials, and supplies on your RV. Remember, if you choose a digital option, you’ll need to have a secure source of Wi-Fi.

    3. Find & Plan Learning Opportunities on the Road

    Make lessons come to life by incorporating your travels into your educational plans. Field trips aren’t limited when you’re living life on the road. Take advantage of museums, historical landmarks, and any activities that you can find related to the subjects your children are currently studying.

    4. Build Your Roadschooling Community

    You don’t have to go it alone! There are many families out there who have also chosen the roadschool lifestyle and you can find them through online groups, RV events, and homeschooling meetups. This is a great way to share success stories, along with tips and tricks, that other families have learned along the way. 

    5. Stay Positive & Optimistic

    When you decide to make the transition into roadschooling, there may be a few bumps along the way. Whether you try roadschooling for months or years, there will most likely be a learning curve for everyone involved. Stay positive and optimistic during your roadschooling journey and remember to check in with your kids periodically to see how they feel about this new change. 

    Roadschooling can be a great option for families who are looking to RV full-time. There’s nothing like learning out on the road, and we hope that our tips have encouraged you if you’re interested in taking the leap. If you’re looking for an RV with enough space to set up a roadschooling area for your kids, browse the nationwide inventory of used and new RVs for sale on RVTrader.com.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

    FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

    Missed RV upkeep and repair items can become costly if you do not catch them in time.

    You have made a major investment in an RV. You take great pride in keeping it clean, waxed, and properly maintained. Have you completely read, understood, and followed the information and instructions in all of the manuals for your unit? Some coaches come with encyclopedia-size booklets, others with just a thin pamphlet. Either way, numerous items require regular attention, some of which you may never have heard of or thought about. I hope that this article will encourage you to look into them.

    Some RVers cite cost as a reason they haven’t precisely followed recommendations in the manuals. However, many businesses have found it is cheaper and safer to implement a planned preventive maintenance (PM) schedule for their equipment. Even if they trade or sell their equipment often, they know that an attached PM report increases the items’ resale value.

    Imagine you are out looking at two nearly identical RVs with the same mileage. One comes with documented PM records and costs more than the one without. Which one would you purchase? If you stop to think about it, the one without records may end up costing you more during its life. First, you have to spend money to bring it up to specs before any trips. Second, items that have not been maintained properly will wear out faster than normal, use more energy, and could be dangerous.

    More often than not, overlooked maintenance items are the leading contributor to the need for emergency road repairs. You can save time, money, frustration, and maybe your marriage just by following your manuals’ recommendations. Many RVs out there receive little or no care; is yours one of them? When they do break down, it may be just a tip of the iceberg of problems to come.

    An old saying from the horse and buggy days applies to the RV lifestyle: “Rode hard and put away wet.” This means subjecting something to extremely hard use and then doing nothing to care for it when finished. Our RVs can sit for several months unused, and then they are off to the races for a weekend getaway or a coast-to-coast run. After reaching the destination, we shut them down and ignore them until the next expedition. Because of a RV’s weight and aerodynamics, the motor, transmission, cooling system, and brakes could be considered as operating in a severe-duty service whenever used. This makes preventive maintenance more important than ever, so follow the manuals’ suggestions.

    Below is a list of items that are easy to overlook. It is a little long; however, these items deserve attention before they require an expensive solution. Most manufacturers recommend them as yearly checks. Please reference your manuals, the company’s website, or its service department for specific recommendations regarding your RV and its components and accessories.

    Frame/Driveline

     

    • Batteries: Far and away, the most common battery repairs technicians make are to resolve loose connections, especially on the ground/negative side and wires. Check all terminals and frame grounds for corrosion and tightness. Wash down battery areas with a water-and-baking soda solution or an approved cleaner. Check electrolyte levels; fill with distilled water if needed, usually just enough to cover the plates.
    • Brakes’ hydraulic systems – Use test strips to check the fluid level and its moisture content. Periodic flushing is required to maintain your safety, approximately every three years or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first. Fluid does break down and can attract moisture over time from the heat generated by braking. A noticeable change in efficiency and required pedal force will occur. More importantly, the calipers and the ABS systems’ control module could be damaged, causing a very expensive repair.
    • Air systems: Drain ping/storage tanks completely every month to remove moisture. Some units have a replaceable desiccant filter that is easy to overlook but is extremely vital to brakes and suspension.
    • Pads, calipers, rotors, or drums: Check for usable life left, cracking, or glaze and make sure they all operate properly.
    • Brake lines: Check for severe rust on metal lines. Watch out for cracks or weeping on flexible lines.
    • Grease/Lubrication: Climb underneath your coach and count every zerk fitting you can find. Look at all suspension components; steering linkage, including the connection to the steering wheel; driveshaft; universal joints; transmission; clutch shafts; and tag axle. Keep this number (I have counted as many as 43) in your notes with the owners manuals. After a lube, oil, and filter service is performed, ask how many grease zerks they serviced. If it does not match your number, ask why. Then check one that is hard to find for proof of new grease! You would be amazed at how many dry ones I encounter. Some motors have grease zerks on the cooling fan assembly. Do not forget about sliders, rollers, or bearings on racks (generator, cargo, steps, propane tanks, batteries, etc.).
    • Hydraulic Slideouts And Leveling: Fill the oil level with the proper type oil and look for leaks.
    • Rear End/Differential: Refer to the coach’s chassis maintenance schedule; however, if a schedule is not available, change the fluid every 100,000 miles. Check the vent tube for blockage. Check the universal joints when greasing and replace if any looseness is detected.
    • Steering: Check fluid; change when suggested (usually three to five years).
    • Suspension: Springs, control arms, and sway bars all have bushings that can wear out. Shocks that have oil stains on them or more than 50,000 miles need to be replaced.
    • Tag Axle: Check wheel bearings for adjustment and lubrication.
    • Tires: Look for dry rot, bulges, cracking, and correct pressure. Stay away from tire dressings that make them shiny, as they tend to have silicone or petroleum-based ingredients that can accelerate tire deterioration. It’s probably best to simply wash the tires with soap and water, and rinse them thoroughly afterward.
    • Transmission: Check the fluid and filter; refer to the coach’s chassis maintenance schedule. If a schedule is not available, change at 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

    Electrical

     

    • Generator: Wash with a cleaner such as Mean Green and low-pressure water; air dry before using. Change air and fuel filters; some models have filters or screens on cooling air/compartment inlets. Gasoline types should be run once every five to six weeks under medium load, have their fuel system drained, or have Sta-Bil added to the fuel (make sure it’s in the carburetor before shutting down the gen set). Run diesel generators at least every two to three months. Warm them up, operate under a load for 10 to 15 minutes, and cool down for another three to five minutes before shutting off. This keeps the fuel fresh, lubricates the parts, and keeps the generator ready for emergencies.
    • Lights: Check all interior and exterior lights on all vehicles (towable included).
    • Shore Power Cord: Clean and wipe down with silicone spray or a product such as 303 Aerospace Protectant (do not use anything slick on coaches equipped with a cord reel).

    Engine And Compartment

     

    • Lube, Oil, And Filter: This should be a no-brainer, so remember the time intervals also; oil is your engine’s lifeblood. Follow change intervals to a tee. Stay with quality name-brand oil and filters, especially on diesel engines when new. Many diesel motors require break-in valve and injector adjustments. According to Caterpillar, Cummins, and Detroit Diesel, this first adjustment is very critical.
    • Air Conditioner: Check pressure and operation of the dash air conditioner before the season.
    • Hoses: Look for rub marks, bulges, cracks, or weeping. Secure hose clamps.
    • Serpentine/Fan Belts: Check for cracking or frayed cords. They should be changed every five to eight years/50,000 to 125,000 miles.
    • Engine Cooling/Radiators – Antifreeze: Fill and have the pH level checked. Change every three to five years/65,000 to 100,000 miles. Use only the antifreeze approved for your engine; there are differences. Diesel owners: It is vital to check the pH level and appropriate buffers.
    • Fins/fan: Carefully check, clean, and straighten cooling fins. If the fan’s blades are bent or damaged, replace the fan with a new one.
    • Filters: They are installed in places you never thought of: air, fuel, water separator, cabin, antifreeze, radiator pre-filters/screens, air compressor, crankcase.

    Exterior

    • Air Conditioner: Remove the cover of the roof air conditioner; check for mud dauber nests; clean the fins and fans of leaves, sticks, moss, and nests. You will save energy and help the unit last longer.
    • Seams: Check all seams for faulty caulk, especially the roof around antenna mounts, skylights, ladder, and vents.
    • Furnace: Remove the cover and clean. Replace filters if applicable (e.g., Aqua-Hot). Look out for mice and their nests.
    • Horns: Do they work?
    • Refrigerator Covers: Remove the outer cover and vacuum clean. Check for spiders, as they love this area. Find the black drain tube, check for obstructions, and route to drain outside of the cover.
    • Roof Maintenance: Clean, look for, and repair defects. Apply proper protection.
    • Slideout Seals: Clean and lubricate every six to 12 months.
    • Storage And Entrance Doors: Clean and lubricate seals, lifting mechanism, latches, and hinges.
    • Water Heater: Remove the bottom plug and drain the heater. Replace the anode rod. Clean the propane-heating tube. Remove the plug-in 12-volt connector and reconnect (cleans contacts).
    • Windshield Wipers: Check and replace. Better to do this now before you’re caught in a big rainstorm. Refill the washer fluid reservoir.

    Interior

    • Air Conditioner: Clean or replace filters monthly. Carefully clean/vacuum cooling fins.
    • Detectors: Change batteries in smoke, carbon monoxide, and LP-gas detectors.
    • Furnace: Remove the covers and vacuum the area clean.
    • Water Systems: Check the under-counter and ice-maker filters and replace if necessary.
    • Windshield: Clean the inside as well as the outside. Remember how hard it was to see through when driving into the sun on your last trip?

    Even though this list may appear overwhelming, the items are not all due at once. Mileage, hours, and/or age will dictate when attention is required throughout the year and life cycle of your RV.

    Consult this checklist when searching for a used RV. Finding one with documented PM schedules included generally indicates the entire rig was properly maintained. If you purchase one with a questionable service record, either you’ll become handy at repairs or spend a lot of money for someone who is.

    If purchasing an older RV with low mileage, or if you let yours sit unused for extended periods, think about this: mechanical items are designed for use on a regular basis. Using them as they were intended to be used generally makes them last longer, with fewer problems, than those you don’t use regularly.

    Think about our own bodies. When we exercise regularly, we feel better, move around easier, are more alert, and are less prone to injuries and arthritis. Usually we spend less on health care as a result. If we stop exercising, we gain weight, slow down, and acquire more aches and pains; medical expenses and time spent at the doctor rises dramatically. The same thing happens with your RV. This can become a vicious cycle.

    Stop exercising your RV and the seals in the motor, rear, and steering dry out and shrink because oil drains off them. Oil drains off motor parts, causing rust and stuck valves. Additives in the oil break down even with age, allowing suspended acids and damaging particles to settle on critical parts. Tires will dry rot and crack, because they depend upon movement to excrete protective agents to block this. Transmission internals can rust and clutch packs go dry. Brakes can rust or seize up, lock up a wheel, or generate enough heat from dragging to burn out a wheel bearing. Brake, fuel, and air lines can rust through from condensation in the storage area. Critters and insects love to make nests in stationary RVs.

    You’ve probably heard some RVers say, “Hey, I start mine and let it idle once a month.” Just starting the motor and letting it idle can do more damage than good, but that’s for another time and article.

  • How to Boondock: Part I

    How to Boondock: Part I

    For many RVers, boondocking is an enjoyable way to camp. Boondocking refers to free camping without the use of hookups and can be done in a wide variety of places, including public lands, parking lots, membership club locations, casinos, rest stops, and more. This style of camping is often more scenic, more private, more affordable, and, for some, more fun.However, those who are accustomed to camping with hookups to water, electric, and sewer may be unsure of how to dry camp. If you want to try boondocking but feel overwhelmed by the idea of dry camping, then you have come to the right place. Here, we have highlighted all the tried-and-true methods of camping without hookups, as well as, all the applicable tools that can make your experience smoother.

    Water

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    In most campgrounds, RVers can expect to be connected to water hookups at all times. This means that water is continuously flowing into your RV and the user essentially has unlimited access to water when connected. When boondocking wherever your RV takes you, you forfeit access to continuous fresh water. You will have to exclusively live off of the potable water in your freshwater holding tank.

    • Start by determining the size of your RV’s freshwater holding tank. The average American household uses 300 gallons of water daily, so learning to live off of a small holding tank is not always easy. In bigger rigs, the tank size is typically between sixty and ninety gallons, although some rigs are made with tanks up to 150 gallons in size. This information can typically be found in your owner’s manual or sometimes even near the fill-up port.

    • After determining your tank size, the easiest thing to do is practice limiting water consumption. Start by using a trickle of water for washing your hands and brushing your teeth, and turn the faucet off in between lathering and rinsing. Do the same for dishwashing, and turn the water off in between use while showering. This will stretch your water-saving capabilities. Start small with shorter trips of two or three days, and work your way up to longer stints. The most experienced boondockers can often last up to fourteen days!

    • The final hurdle for water usage while boondocking is filling your tank. If you are traveling from your home to your boondocking site, you can likely fill your tank before leaving your house. If you are traveling from a campground to a boondocking site, you can also fill before setting off. However, if you are traveling from one boondocking location to another, or simply do not want to travel with the weight of a full water tank, you will need to know where you can safely fill your tank. Keep in mind that you should only ever fill your freshwater holding tank with potable water. Even if you do not drink water from the faucets, you will still be using it to brush your teeth, wash your dishes, and in some cases, provide water for your pets.

    Knowing where to fill up your tank is key. Many gas stations and travel centers have areas for tank filling. Some may charge a small fee, but most are free. If you cannot find a travel center at which to fill up, you can often find stations at national park and state park campgrounds. Even if you are just passing through, many of these locations will allow you to fill with park entrance or for a nominal fee. If none of these options are panning out, you can almost always call a local campground to fill your tank. These will almost always charge a small fee, but it will still be less than a night’s stay and will save you money for whatever length of time you plan to boondock. Freshwater is one of the biggest challenges while boondocking, so once you have mastered this, you will be a pro.

    Power

    The next biggest boondocking hurdle is supplying your own power. At a campground, your RV connects to shore power, which allows you to power your entire RV, charge devices, watch TV, run your air conditioners, etc. Without shore power access, you will need to learn to generate your own power. There are also a number of upgrades you can add to make boondocking much easier.

    No matter what kind of set-up you choose to power your RV while boondocking, you will need to keep in mind the importance of energy conservation. None of these options will grant you an unlimited power supply, and keeping your usage low will be important. You will likely be unable to run air conditioners or high-energy kitchen appliances, but the right set-up will likely allow you to charge electrical devices, such phones and laptops, run your water pump for water usage, and turn on lights in the evening. Consider switching your lightbulbs to low-energy bulbs or installing additional DC lights for more lighting while off grid. Once you have come up with a plan for saving energy, it is time to decide which power option is best for you.

    Start by assessing your current house batteries. These are the batteries that store energy to power the RV “house” (anything non-mechanical) when you are not plugged in. Some RVs come equipped with decent batteries that can store a lot of energy, but many RVs have only simple or weak batteries. If you plan to do plenty of boondocking, you may consider upgrading your batteries to gel, lead acid, or even lithium.

    Once you know what type of batteries you are working with, you will want to determine how long these batteries can power your rig when not connected to power. This establishes how long you can go between charging the batteries. Some folks only boondock for one or two days at a time. If your batteries can hold their charge for a couple of days, and you only plan to boondock in short bursts, you may not need an additional source of power to charge your batteries.

    If you plan to boondock frequently or for longer periods of time, you need to select a method for charging your house batteries when they are low. The two most common charging sources RVers use are a generator or solar power. Many motorhomes, especially class As, come equipped with an on-board generator, making boondocking quite simple right off the bat. However, in the case of many towables and smaller motorhomes, your RV may not come with a generator installed. Luckily, purchasing one and setting it up is fairly simple. There are many generators on the market, each with different abilities and specs. Most run on gasoline, and ones that are already installed in a motorhome are fed directly from the fuel that powers your RV. Be sure to do proper research before selecting one and setting it up to power your rig. Keep in mind that running the generator will charge your batteries and all the electrical sockets, but unless you have an inverter, only DC powered devices (such as lights) can be used when the generator is not running. It’s also important to remember that generators require regular maintenance, such as oil changes and spark plug replacements.

    A generator is not the only option for charging your house batteries. A full solar panel set-up can also do the job. While solar may require a pricey up-front cost, it is a great long-term investment for those who plan to boondock and dry camp often. Solar kits can be purchased through a variety of online retailers, and these all come with different components and wattages. It’s important to do plenty of research to not only determine the correct wattage for your need, but to also ensure you’re getting the best quality items at a fair price. In addition, have your solar system installed by a professional to ensure everything is set up correctly.

    Sewer

    The final consideration for hookups (or lack thereof) while boondocking is your sewer system. Your sewer system consists of both your black and gray holding tanks. The black tank holds waste exclusively from your toilet. The gray tank holds waste water, which includes water from washing dishes, showers, washing your hands, brushing your teeth, etc. At full hookup campgrounds, campers typically run a hose to their sewer to empty their tanks as needed. When boondocking, this option for emptying tanks is not available. It is never okay to dump your waste tanks anywhere other than an official dumping station. For this reason, you will need to adhere to some tips and guidelines while boondocking.

    First, you will need to determine the size of your gray and black tanks. Your gray tank will likely be a bit smaller than your freshwater tank, and your black tank will be smaller than both of them. Any tips for conserving freshwater usage can also be applied to saving gray water tank space. Water that is not used equates to additional space in your gray tank.

    There really isn’t a method for conserving black tank space, and the amount of time it takes you to fill the black tank depends on how many people you are traveling with. Practicing boondocking will allow you to gain an idea of how long it takes you to fill your black tank, giving you insight into generally how long you can remain unplugged. You can also keep an eye on the levels of your tanks using the tank meter. It is often found in the control center and lets you know how full your tanks are at any given time. Once your black tank is full, you should not continue to use it, as this could lead to waste water backing up into your sinks and shower if it has nowhere else to go.

    Finally, as mentioned, you will need to determine where to empty your tanks after boondocking. If you are headed to a campground, you can easily empty your tanks there. However, if you are headed home or towards another boondocking location, you will need to dump your tanks before you arrive. Just like with water refilling stations, there are many travel centers and gas stations that have dump stations for RVers. There is almost always a small charge to use these, and you must come equipped with your own sewer hose. If you cannot find a travel center with a dump station, you can use one at a private, state park, or national park campground. Be sure to call ahead and double-check they will allow you to use their dump station, and plan to pay a small fee for the service. If you are still having trouble finding a dump station, consider using the Sanidumps app. It allows users to locate dump stations in their general vicinity or along a specific route.

    Boondocking is an excellent way to camp in your RV, and knowing how to dry camp is key for anyone wanting to boondock. Follow these basic tips if you plan to forgo hookups. Stay tuned for our next boondocking guide, which will teach you how to obtain internet, dispose of trash, and do laundry when you are not at a campground.

    Do you enjoy boondocking? How do you handle water, sewer, and electricity when you are off grid? Feel free to share in the comments below!

  • FMCA Tech Tip: RV Buying Tips

    FMCA Tech Tip: RV Buying Tips

    Buying an RV typically is not always a simple, stress-free experience. After all, it requires a substantial outlay of discretionary funds. During the buying process it’s not uncommon for prospective first-time buyers to seek advice from their family, friends, or even FMCA (Family Motor Coach Association) members. More seasoned RV owners also may want information about how to make the process go more smoothly, and our friends at FMCA are here to help these buyers, too.

    They are providing us with a thought-provoking, logical pathway to the ultimate joy of owning and traveling in an RV. Check out their tips below.

    Budget

    The first thing to consider: How much can you afford?

    Most established dealers can assist with this, but three major items must be addressed.
    Down payment. If there is no trade-in vehicle, you’ll have to determine how much cash is needed for a down payment. Even if you have a vehicle to trade, it’s likely some cash outlay will be necessary.
    Monthly operating expenses. Factor in the monthly payment (if you are financing), as well as, the cost of insurance, fuel, outfitting, storage requirements, etc. Preventive maintenance. This is the cost of maintaining the RV’s major systems in order to enjoy trouble-free travel.

    It’s also a good idea to establish an “RV maintenance savings plan” where you are regularly depositing money into a dedicated savings account. Every month, try to deposit the cost of at least one retail labor hour at a local RV service facility. Over the course of a year, that will buy at least 12 of the 20 to 24 annual shop hours that typically are required to keep a motorhome or RV on the road.
    Family Needs

    Obviously, a family of five needs more sleeping accommodations than a traveling retired couple. In addition to sleeping arrangements, consider how much storage space is required for the family’s camping gear and each individual’s hobby interests. For example, a family member who is a gourmet chef will need a fancier galley than someone who doesn’t cook. Carefully determine the family requirements beyond the aesthetic features you might have in mind.

    Type Of RV

    After reconciling the budget and family needs, next consider the type of RV you’d like to have. RV categories include Type A, Type C, or Type B motorhomes, Fifth Wheels, and Travel Trailers. If you are bringing some equipment like ATVs or golf carts along, Toy Haulers is another available option. A good place to start researching the types of RVs is on RV Trader. 

    Another consideration: If driving/towing duties will be shared, will everyone be comfortable behind the wheel? Regardless of the type of RV chosen, new buyers will require some type of RV driving instruction.

    Code Requirements

    Be sure the RV under scrutiny is built to code, specifically to National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 1192, which applies to recreation vehicles. Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) has adopted NFPA 1192. All motorhome manufacturers that are members of RVIA build to that standard.

    This code has nothing to do with the quality of workmanship; rather, it governs the general fire and life safety requirements for the RV’s fuel systems, including the propane system, the plumbing systems, as well as the interior finish, the textile materials, the means of escape, fire detection equipment, and chassis requirements. For more information about NFPA 1192, click here.

    Construction Variances

    Look closely at how an RV is constructed. Techniques vary; all have their pros and cons. Material costs, build times, weight specifications, etc., all factor into the differences. Be sure the construction method is compatible with how the RV will be used. For example, if you will use it for winter skiing excursions, the R-factor of the insulation used is important to know and compare. How thick are the walls, floor, and roof? How secure is the weatherproofing? Are the storage bays heated?

    Floor Plan Compatibility

    A suitable floor plan involves more than a seat-belted traveling position for motorized RVs and a sleeping berth for each person. Ask yourself: Is everything exactly where I’d like it to be? Ensure that the floor plan truly works for you, the family, and the activities you have in mind. Do occupants have access to the bathroom with all the slideouts retracted? Is that an important consideration? Can the refrigerator be opened while in travel mode, or is it blocked by a closed slideout? Does it even matter? Is there enough wardrobe space?

    Don’t just “settle” on an RV purchase because that’s all the dealer had in stock. It’s amazing how many different, ingeniously designed floor plans exist at every length of each type of RV. Be sure the one you choose has the floor plan that works for you, not against you.

    Size/Weight/Length

    In most cases, as the floor plan requirements grow, so does the length of the RV, too. It’s helpful to keep in mind that RV’s can range up to 45 feet long, and the overall length stretches beyond that if you tow a car or truck. Some campgrounds, RV storage facilities, repair shops, and even some roads and local municipalities limit the overall length of the motoring configuration. Be sure you will not be limited by weight or length in the areas in which you plan to travel.

    Overall height is also important. The Internet teems with videos of RVers proving they did not know (or forgot) just how tall their RV was. If this is overlooked, low overpasses, railway bridges, gas station canopies, and drive-throughs of all types can be hazardous to the components on an RV’s roof.

    And don’t forget possible width restrictions. RVs with deep, opposing slideouts may be limited in some of the tighter spaces in older campgrounds. This is not always a dealbreaker, but it is something to consider if you will spend significant time in confined locations.

    Brand Integrity

    It’s always nice to get opinions from owners of the particular brand and model you are considering. Many FMCA chapters are focused on one manufacturer or brand; members typically enjoy sharing their wisdom with others. Also, many brands have official owners groups or clubs. Opinions are freely expressed on their online forums. But, remember, just because someone dislikes a particular brand does not mean all owners share that opinion.

    Your research also should include a visit to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration website. Search for recalls regarding a particular brand, especially when buying a preowned RV.

    Keep in mind that a manufacturer or brand should not be condemned just because a recall was issued. “Many recalls have been attributed to inaccurate labels, rather than to mechanical safety defects,” said Walter Cannon, executive director of the RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF), the leading voice of safety advocacy for the RV industry. But it is important that the manufacturer or selling dealer address all actionable items outlined in a recall.

    Check, too, whether an RV manufacturer posts online documentation for the brand and model you are contemplating. Online owners manuals, service literature, tech bulletins, and brochures will offer some insight into specific models. Does the manufacturer have an e-newsletter you can subscribe to? It’s not so much for pre-purchase research, but once you own the coach, regular manufacturer communications are a good indication of how the company views its customers.

    Another consideration, although not a deal maker or breaker on its own: Does an RV retain some value when it’s time to trade up or down?

    Availability

    The next step is to find the particular RV you’ve selected with the floor plan you want. If your local dealer carries the brand, but the specific floor plan and model you want is out of stock, no doubt it can be ordered. Establish a good relationship with your local dealer and purchase from there, even if the coach is available immediately from a distant dealer you found online. So, why turn away from a good deal you found online at a dealer that is a few states away? Read on.

    Buy Local

    If, in your quest to save a few bucks, you bought from a faraway dealership, it may be challenging to get in for service in a timely manner. And, remember, this extends beyond the warranty period. Even retail repairs and regular maintenance appointments may be granted to existing customers first. RV owners who purchased from a dealer will generally have priority over owners who bought a coach elsewhere. It’s true even if those owners live in the same town.

    Dealer Reputation

    Having a good relationship with a local dealer does not eliminate the need to properly evaluate the dealer beforehand.

    Do your research and get to know the dealership and sales staff. A good salesperson can be instrumental in ensuring you end up with the right RV and also can become a helpful ally after the sale. Avoid the high pressure of buying immediately. Even after you have settled all the issues, decided on a particular RV, and are ready to pull the trigger, sleep on it one more night.

    Get to know the service staff, too. Do they employ certified or master-certified technicians in the shop? Many FMCA RV owners perform much of their own preventive maintenance. Still, for a variety of reasons, many tasks must be performed by professionals. Quality dealerships will invest in technician education and certification. Look for the certified technician patch on the work uniform.

    Getting to know a local dealership may also provide a glimpse of how important customer service is to that organization. The better dealerships look beyond the initial sale and become your personal advocate for future purchases and ongoing technical support.

    RV Shows

    Don’t overlook the value that can be found at events such as FMCA International Conventions. Many dealers offer “show specials” whereby attendees can find great deals on the display RVs. RV shows, rallies, conventions, and other gatherings happen somewhere just about every weekend. At smaller shows, some dealers may even sell pre owned vehicles. Pre-delivery inspection of those coaches usually has been completed, and they are ready to go. Look for last-day markdowns. Shows sometimes have manufacturers’ representatives on hand and that’s a good time to ask more in-depth questions.

    Consumer Education

    Before deciding on a purchase, prospective owners also can gain a huge advantage over less-informed, impulse buyers by attending seminars such as the RV Basics workshop offered by FMCA Academy. More than 100 people at each event invest in their RV futures at FMCA International Conventions. Those who have not yet purchased their first RV gain tremendous insight and guidance, thereby reducing the risk of an unhappy buying experience.

    Take your time. Never make a snap buying decision. Do the homework. And most importantly, have some fun doing it. The journey to RV ownership can be enjoyed almost as much as the trips you’ll take in that new purchase. Remember, RVing is more than a hobby; it’s a lifestyle!

    Comparison Shopping

    All RVs are not created equal. The quality of components varies within each RV type, as well as, among manufacturers and brands. Likewise, differences exist in the quality of design and construction. That’s not necessarily a negative, since it results in a range of price points and allows many people to get into RVing at some level.

    RVs that appear similar may fall within the same price range. Comparing those RVs from a technical point of view, rather than simply on aesthetics, can reveal discrepancies that perhaps can lead to better buying decisions. Examples of such technical comparisons follow.

    Access To Components

    When buying an RV, consider the ease of access to parts and pieces that require periodic inspection and maintenance. For instance, is it necessary to partially disassemble the coach to find and reach the fresh-water filter/strainer attached to the water pump? That strainer needs simple, periodic maintenance. When winterizing, is it difficult to reach the low-point drain valves or the water heater bypass valves?

    Must you be a flexible gymnast to contort yourself into position to get to the circuit breaker panel board? And how easy is it to replace a fuse in the 12-volt-DC battery system? Can you even find the fuse block?

    The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires a certain number of receptacles on particular circuits. Are the receptacles located where you need them in the motorhome?

    Design Pitfalls

    As you compare RVs, look at the physical separation between propane appliances. In some cases, installing a forced-air furnace directly below an absorption refrigerator is not as good as having lateral separation between those two appliances. The same can be said when a gas water heater is installed directly below the fridge.

    Here’s why: For an absorption refrigerator to cool properly, a draft of cool air is drawn in from its lower exterior vent and then passes up through the rear of the cooling unit and exits out the roof vent or a separate, upper side vent. It is vital to keep the back of the refrigerator as cool as possible so that the convection airflow properly evacuates the heat generated by the refrigerator’s energy source and heat transferred from the food inside. A high heat-producing appliance installed directly below the point where the refrigerator draws in this cool air minimizes its effectiveness and can lead to operational problems.

    Cargo Weight Limitations

    The RV occupant and cargo carrying capacity (OCCC) listed on the required weight label shows the maximum number of pounds (or kilograms) the RV can carry, regardless of how much space is available.

    For more information about RV weights, including the federal weight label (and the older RVIA labels), visit the RVSEF website.

    Remember, All RVs are not created technically equal. So when buying an RV, look beyond the nice furnishings, storage space, and window treatments to see how well thought out the floor plan really is. And do not despair; the perfect RV for you and your family is out there. Enjoy the journey; enjoy the destination!

  • Tips and Tricks for Traveling with Pets

    Tips and Tricks for Traveling with Pets

    RVing with pets can be a wonderful experience for you and your beloved furry friends. Check out nine tips to keep in mind when RVing with your pet.

     

    Prepare Your Pet

    Does your pet do well in new situations and environments? If so, great! If not, going on a year-long adventure right off the bat might not be the best idea. Starting out with a few smaller-scale trips will help minimize the stress your pet might feel on the road.

    Mind the Paperwork

    Bring your pet’s health certificate and vaccination records, since many RV parks require you to have them with you in order to enter the grounds.

    Make a List

    The essentials like food and water are a no-brainer, of course, but be sure to write down absolutely everything you need for your furry friend, including dishes, leashes, a litter box for your cat, waste bags, treats and toys, cages, a brush, and a crate, if needed. Don’t forget medications if your pet takes any.

    Call Ahead

    Get in touch with the RV parks and campgrounds you plan to stop at. Make sure they allow pets, and also ask if they have any rules or regulations regarding pets at their facility.

    Stay up to Date

    Make sure your pet’s vaccinations and shots are up-to-date, with the records to prove it. This will avoid paperwork hangups, but it’s also important in order to keep your animal companion safe from disease as you travel through new areas.

    ID Your Pet

    If you haven’t already done so, take the time to put your cell phone number on your pet’s ID tags.

    Protect Your Pets

    Bring along flea and tick spray, or make sure your pets are already treated before leaving on the RV trip.It’s easy to pick up fleas and ticks, especially in the great outdoors, so ask your vet about treatment for your particular furry family member.

    Be a Good Citizen

    Remember to pick up after your pets in all locations. This is not only polite and courteous, but it also encourages RV parks and campgrounds to keep allowing pets.

    Get Outside!

    Exercise isn’t just important for humans, it’s extremely important for pets to have quality time in the great outdoors (especially during long road trips). Make potty breaks fun for everyone by taking a long walk or playing fetch with your pooch.

  • Tips for Appreciating Nature Indoors

    Tips for Appreciating Nature Indoors

    There’s a second pandemic taking hold, especially among those who cherish wide-open spaces: cabin fever. When you can’t hit the road to natural spaces, you need to look elsewhere for your fix. The good news is that there are countless ways to appreciate nature indoors and at home.

    Experiencing the great outdoors from inside has some upsides: no biting insects, venomous snakes, or sunburns! While this is a small consolation for a season spent at home, focusing on the positives will make the time pass more quickly. It won’t be long before we’re back on the road again.

    Explore Nature Virtually

    The national park system is one of the nation’s greatest treasures, and you can tour many of those parks now. Take a memorable break by using some digital resources to explore the world outside. From the Virgin Islands to Crater Lake, exploring these natural wonders has never been easier. The National Park Foundation offers virtual tours of some extraordinary sites. The program Google Earth also lets you tour a curated group of national parks in the US, from Acadia to Zion. Think of these virtual visits as research for your next road trip.

    But why stop at the U.S. border? Technology makes it possible to explore nature around the world, right from your living room. Check out the world’s largest cave in Vietnam or the Zhāngjiājiè national forest park in China in 360 degrees. You can also venture to the southern end of South America to see breathtaking vistas in Patagonia. Fly over the dunes of the Namib Desert in Namibia or watch a show of the northern lights in Sweden.

    Dig Into a Garden

    One of the easiest ways to commune with nature from home is by creating a garden. It doesn’t matter if you prefer blooms over broccoli — gardening includes everything from cacti to terrariums. Just make sure that you choose an appropriate gardening activity for your situation. Even so-called “easy” trees and plants such as the Money tree, require specific care.

    You don’t need an expansive yard for a garden, either. A small patio or windowsill is enough to start a container garden. Countertop hydroponic systems make it easy to create an herb garden in your kitchen.

    Camp in the Backyard

    There is something about campfires and s’mores under the stars that can heal the soul. Even if you can’t make it out of the city, staying in a tent or your travel trailer in the backyard can be a great way to disconnect and feel a part of nature.

    If you want to be more comfortable you can run an extension cord to your rig to run the air conditioning, radio, and keep the drinks cool in the refrigerator. When you wake up in the morning you may forget for a few minutes that you are enjoying nature in your own backyard.

    Immerse Yourself in Nature Sounds

    If you find yourself missing the sounds of the wild or wish to be transported to an untamed place, check out some nature soundscapes online. You can put yourself to sleep to an eight-hour recording of birdsongs over a river or the sound of a forest at night. There are hours-long sounds of ocean waves, thunderstorms, rainforests, and more. Despite being unable to travel at the moment, there are many recordings that allow you to close your eyes and go outside.

    Use Common Scents

    It may not be quite the same as a visit to a campground, but using natural fragrances can create a connection to nature. Essential oils in a diffuser give a hint of gardenia or eucalyptus. An earthy-scented candle can evoke the woods or a coastline, while a floral candle can bring you hints of jasmine or rose. The sense of smell is strongly linked to memory, so tapping into a natural scent can bring back fond memories of familiar outdoor places.

    Connecting with nature isn’t a walk in the park right now. But unlike the time spent scrolling through the news or social media, time spent tapping into nature is calming and a useful reset. While this is no substitute for traveling, we hope it will inspire you when you do get on the road again.

    Author Bio: Cynthia Shackleton is an Ohio native and freelance writer who enjoys gardening and making summer RV trips along Lake Michigan with her motorcyclist husband and two fur babies.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: RV Battery Types

    FMCA Tech Tip: RV Battery Types

    Our friends at FMCA are breaking down the different types of batteries for an RV. Check them out below.

    Options include lead-acid and lithium-ion, as well as a choice between 6-volt and 12-volt. The 12-volt-DC electrical system is one of the primary lifelines of an RV. The source of that power can involve some combination of generator, shore power, solar energy, and batteries, as well as the converter and the inverter/charger. Here, our focus is batteries, and the possible choices.

    If your RV usually is connected to grid power, you aren’t as dependent on the house battery bank; the primary concerns are proper battery maintenance and avoiding overcharging. However, when you are boondocking, or dry camping, you rely heavily on the batteries’ ability to deliver a steady supply of 12-volt power. Historically, the go-to battery for RV use has been the flooded lead-acid battery, which is the oldest type of rechargeable battery, invented in 1859. These are the batteries in automobiles, but for RV house use they have larger plates than “starting” batteries, to facilitate deep cycling. While lead-acid batteries haven’t changed much in more than 100 years, newer technologies have introduced other lead-acid batteries to the market, including gel-cells and absorbed glass mat (AGM); both are of a type called valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA). And recently, lithium-ion (Li-ion or Li+) technology was introduced. So, which type of battery should you choose for your home on wheels? Also, should you buy 6-volt or 12-volt? Each battery type has its advantages, disadvantages, price range, and requirements. For instance, there are different charging requirements that your existing converter or inverter/charger may not be able to accommodate. So, while you can keep the batteries charged, you run the risk of overcharging or damaging them, or reducing the batteries’ life.

    Flooded Lead-Acid

    These are still the most common and inexpensive batteries for RV use. Although they can be constructed differently, all batteries of this type consist of lead plates (electrodes) suspended in electrolyte, which is water-based sulphuric acid. Almost all RVs currently in use can accommodate flooded batteries without modification to the charging system. An overview of flooded batteries: *They are available in serviceable or maintenance-free versions. The only difference is that the latter lack caps that allow access to the electrolyte. For serviceable batteries, the electrolyte must be monitored periodically for level and condition. *While all batteries should be kept clean, flooded batteries require regular cleaning of the terminals, posts, straps, and surrounding area to remove corrosive battery acid, which builds up regularly because of the water-based acid. Such batteries also release hydrogen, especially while being charged. *Because the acid is suspended in water, there is a risk of acid damage or injury if a flooded battery leaks, falls over, gets cracked, or is otherwise damaged. *Discharging a deep-cycle flooded battery to less than 50 percent charge can limit battery life. So, such batteries are capable of only about half of their listed amp-hour capacity. *Sulfation — lead sulfate crystals settling on the battery plates — occurs in flooded cells. Reversible sulfation is a normal part of the chemical reaction, but permanent sulfation reduces battery efficiency, as well as life and charge capability. Excessive sulfation is the primary cause of premature failure of flooded lead-acid batteries.

    Gel-Cell

    This is the next step in the evolution of batteries. Silica dust is added to the electrolyte of these batteries to create a thick gel. Because the electrolyte is much more viscous, it cannot readily leak or spill. Gel-cell batteries have more stringent charging requirements than AGM batteries. Since the advent of AGM, gel-cell batteries have become rare in RVs.

    Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)

    These batteries go one step further than gel by absorbing the electrolyte into fine fiberglass pads. The pads can be flat, resulting in standard lead-acid battery size and shape, or they can be rolled into cylinders for a smaller battery footprint. Since the electrolyte of AGM batteries is fully absorbed into mats, the batteries are leak-proof and spill-proof, short of major damage to the battery casing. AGM batteries are not subject to the same charging restrictions as gel batteries, so, generally, standard RV charging equipment can be used without modification. Some high-end converters and inverter/chargers have charge settings for AGM batteries, which have charging curves that differ slightly from those of flooded batteries. As with gel batteries, external corrosion is nonexistent with AGM batteries. In addition, gel and AGM batteries are much less prone to sulfation. And internal resistance is much lower in AGM batteries than in flooded cells, so AGM charging time is much shorter.

    Lithium-Ion

    Although lithium-ion (Li-ion or Li+) battery technology has been around since the 1980s, historically it has been used in smaller consumer devices such as cell phones and laptop computers. With recent advances, the batteries now can work in larger applications such as RVs and standby power plants. They are a marked departure from their lead-acid counterparts. Comparing the energy density between lithium-ion and lead-acid batteries reveals stark differences. A lead-acid battery can store about 25 watt-hours per kilogram of battery, whereas a lithium-ion battery can store 100 to 265 watt-hours per kilogram. This results in a 50 percent to 70 percent weight savings per amp-hour over a lead-acid battery of the same size. Lithium-ion batteries also have absolutely no discharge memory, so they are almost 100 percent efficient and can be recharged from completely dead in as little as one hour, depending on the charging technology and battery. This means they can deliver their full rated capacity. The built-in electronics automatically regulate the charging, and chargers designed specifically for lithium-ion batteries are highly recommended. Using a “general” charger could reduce the battery life, but this may not be noticeable by the user. It is important to understand the administrative functions that a particular battery management system controls, as not all battery circuitry is the same. Lithium-ion batteries require an onboard control circuit; therefore, the cost compared to lead-acid batteries is very high. However, such costs are defrayed when considering battery life, number of charges possible, and the energy output. (Thanks to Avanti Lalwani of Briter Products for assisting with lithium-ion specifics.)

    6-Volt Or 12-Volt Batteries?

    The key factor in this choice is current capacity. Two 6-volt batteries must be connected in series in order to achieve 12 volts, whereas two 12-volt batteries must be connected in parallel to maintain 12 volts. In the series configuration, the voltage doubles (6 volts + 6 volts = 12 volts), but the current stays the same. In the parallel scenario, the voltage stays the same, but the current doubles.

    One major reason to use 6-volt batteries is to get more current capacity (measured in amp-hours), although that increase may be nominal. The question may arise: If current capacity doubles with two 12-volt batteries configured in parallel, why opt for 6-volt batteries wired in series? The answer: Because of denser plates in a 6-volt battery, the current capacity is more than double that of a single 12-volt battery. Therefore, by installing two 6-volt batteries in place of one 12-volt battery, the mathematical result is a higher current capacity.

    The same is true if we double or triple the battery bank. Four 6-volt batteries (wired in a series/parallel configuration) provide more current capacity than two 12-volt batteries, etc. However, installing 6-volt batteries comes at the cost of extra weight and space requirements. Six-volt batteries also may be more expensive than 12-volt batteries. Here is my general advice:
    *If you do a lot of boondocking but don’t want to spend the money on lithium-ion batteries, install as many batteries as you can make room for in your RV. I also recommend using 6-volt batteries. While you will have space for only half the number of batteries in terms of equivalent voltage, you will gain more than twice the current capacity.

    *If money is not a concern, go with lithium-ion. You will have more battery per square foot, and much more current capacity, as these batteries are virtually 100 percent efficient. You also will be able to charge your battery bank very quickly, which is important when dry camping. And you will save significant weight, if this is important to you. Lithium-ion is the battery technology of the future, and I predict the price of these batteries may drop in the next few years. However, the high cost is the only downside, and that is largely offset by their high efficiency and long life. The question of which type of RV batteries to use remains a topic of debate in RV circles. RVers should collect information such as that provided in this article and consider their individual needs in order to make an educated decision.

  • Five Tips for RV Life

    Five Tips for RV Life

    In today’s society, there’s a real urge among a lot of people to cut loose from the rat race and just live life out in the beauty of nature. RV or Van life gives you the freedom to go wherever you like and see the countryside in ways most people never get a chance to. I’ve spent a lot of time out on the open road and learned a thing or two in my time. Here are five things I think anyone considering life on the road should understand before taking the plunge.

    1. Plan Ahead, But Stay Flexible

    Life on the road isn’t the same as living in a fixed location. You have to actively plan where you’re going and how long you’re going to be there. At the beginning of each season, I would always sit down and spend a little while listing off places I wanted to go to. Then I’d pull up a map and start to plan out routes, stops, and sights along the way. To be honest, though, I don’t think I ever fully stuck to a plan.

    There’s an old saying in military circles: “No plan survives first contact with the enemy”. It’s a pretty apt description of life on the road. Having a plan is great, but always leave a little wiggle room to change things up.

    2. Learn How to Create Privacy

    When you’re living in an RV with another person, privacy and alone time aren’t going to happen on their own. Even If it’s someone you deeply care for you need to be able to have some time by yourself to recharge.Sit down and communicate your feelings to them. Work out a way to enjoy time apart, even when you’re only a few feet away.

    This can be as simple as a specific time of the day or the week that’s your own. Use it to relax, take a solo hike, or go into town for a little shopping. Trust me, knowing how to build in time apart makes your time together that much sweeter.

    3. A Place for Everything, and Everything in Its Place

    A lot of people really can’t conceptualize how small an RV is. This is doubly true when we’re talking about something like a truck camper or camper van. Before I hit the road I always lived with a comfortable level of clutter. My house was never that messy, but it definitely wasn’t tidy. Those first few weeks out on the road knocked that right on its head. Leaving anything out of place for even a few hours was a recipe for a serious mess down the line. RV life requires a level of organization and the will to always tidy up after yourself.

    Another good thing to keep in mind is the four-week rule. Everything in an RV needs to serve a purpose. If I haven’t used something in four weeks, then it needs to go. It ended up being a great way to keep myself focused on living minimally and preventing clutter from building up.

    4. Expect the Unexpected

    When you’re out in an RV you need to live with a certain level of constant preparedness. This is especially true if you plan to do any boondocking. Things that would be a minor inconvenience in a neighborhood can become a serious problem when you’re out in the wilds. Take a rainstorm for instance. One of my scariest experiences early on in my journey was in a Mississippi campground in early spring. The forecast called for cloudy weather but no rain. Instead, we got something closer to a torrential downpour. The roads were so muddied I lost traction at least a dozen times on the way back out. Once I ended up having to dig up sand from a riverbank and carry it over to get out of a rut.

    Plan ahead for the incidents and inconveniences you’re likely to experience. Keep basic equipment like jumper cables, a portable jump starter, snow/ice scraper, and traction pads on hand. There are great resources out there that can help you figure out what you need. Check out things like an off-grid blog or even AAA recommendations on emergency kits for travel.

    5. Don’t Ignore Little Problems

    Taking care of the mechanical side of your RV is absolutely essential. Too many people are apt to ignore signs of trouble and let them build up into serious problems.

    Make sure you get all the recommended maintenance done on schedule. If you’re at all handy you can probably do a good bit of it yourself. I went into my journey barely knowing how to hang a picture and can now reliably change oil, replace spark plugs, and do a good bit of the basic maintenance. If you hear a squeal when you hit the breaks or feel something off as you’re driving, get it checked out. Nine times out of ten it’s going to be something little and easy to fix, and that tenth time you saved yourself the cost of a tow and maybe prevented a major repair.

    Stay Positive

    Living out of an RV is all about experiencing life on your own terms. So long as you keep your own strengths in mind and focus on the journey rather than the destination you’ll absolutely love your time out in the world.

    Ready to step into the RV lifestyle? Buy or Rent an RV now

    Tiny Living Life is your one-stop-shop for everything simple living for aspiring tiny homeowners, tiny house dwellers, and off the grid lovers. Our team is comprised of people who actually walk-the-walk and talk-the-talk. We live and breathe tiny homes and off-grid living. We believe in a future where we spend more time doing the things that inspire us versus accumulating things we don’t need.

  • Tips for Buying an RV Online

    Tips for Buying an RV Online

    COVID-19 has the majority of the country staying at home. If you had been interested in buying an RV, the quarantine might have put a damper on your plans – but in today’s world, it really doesn’t have to. With all of the technology we have access to, buying an RV is still possible with minimal in-person contact. So, are you still looking to buy? Despite the stay at home orders – it’s still possible with these easy tips.
    Check out our quick tips for buying an RV online:

    Determine Your Budget

    When looking for an RV, the first step you need to take is to look at your budget. What kind of funds are you working with? There are a wide range of budget options for every buyer and whether you’d like to buy new or used, RV Trader has an option for you.

    Decide on Type

    There are tons of options out there when it comes to RVs, so you’ll need to determine what type of RV fits your lifestyle and what exactly you’ll be using it for in the future. Have a large family and need a lot of space? A Class A RV might be a great fit for you. Enjoy camping, but want to step it up a notch? You might want to start with a pop-up camper. The possibilities while selecting a type of RV are endless.

    Do Your Research

    Most shoppers start their search for an RV by using a search engine. But the search engines aren’t the only place you can begin your journey to finding an RV. There are also a slew of other valuable resources, like online RV classified sites such as RV Trader. We encourage you to use RV Trader to conduct research on different types of RVs, see different price ranges, and check out a wide variety of floorplans. When you’re in the search phase, remember that it’s okay to browse. There is no pressure. All you’re doing is simply gathering any and all information about an RV you’re interested in. You’re free to explore any and all RV options out there and the best part is it will only take a few mouse-clicks to do so. Take notes to remember features that you like, read through the unit’s descriptions, and check out all of the photos and videos you can to get a feel for the unit. Don’t forget to utilize RV Trader’s MyTrader feature to save your favorite listings and searches and to get notified about new listings or price drops.

    Connect With the Seller

    Once you’ve seen a unit that you’re interested in, reach out to the seller by phone, email, or chat to see additional photos or to set up a video chat or virtual walkthrough if available. Dealers are eager to help you find the right RV for you, and through virtual meetings or through apps like Zoom or Facetime, they can give you a complete tour of the unit you’re interested in, without even stepping foot on their lot. Use the virtual meetings to ask questions and take notes while the dealer guides you through the unit.

    Ask for An Inspection

    Once you connect with the seller, don’t be afraid to ask for an inspection of the RV. Technology gives buyers the opportunity to conduct a virtual inspection over video call with the seller. If you’re shopping on RVTrader.com, you’ll be able to easily pinpoint for-sale RVs that have already received inspections with the RV Trader Inspection Badge. Listings with this badge have received a comprehensive inspection from RV Trader Assurance powered by Lemon Squad. Pre-purchase inspections can provide not only extensive information, but also peace of mind during the buying process.

    Purchase

    There’s nothing like finding the perfect RV for you. When you think you are ready to make your final purchase decision, you have the option of setting up an appointment with the dealership to view and purchase the unit (while keeping social distancing in mind) or you can have the dealer come to you (if available). Many dealerships are offering virtual buying options such as conducting financing entirely online, offering to deliver documents to sign in person (at a safe distance), and RV delivery options where the seller will bring your RV directly to your driveway.

    Social distancing doesn’t mean all purchasing has to stop, everyone just has to get more creative to stay safe during the process. Looking to buy an RV of your own?

     

    Start your search on RV Trader today.

  • FMCA Tech Tip: The Importance of Waste System Venting in RVs

    FMCA Tech Tip: The Importance of Waste System Venting in RVs

    Proper holding tank venting is required (mandated actually), for both the black and the gray waste systems found on recreation vehicles and the method chosen by most RV manufacturers is to run a length of ABS pipe from the holding tank, up and through the roof of the RV. The importance of proper venting, in both systems, cannot be overstated, especially as it relates to odor control. Additionally, without correct venting, sinks will not drain properly, bacteria can propagate and holding tanks will not drain as quickly or completely.

    Keep in mind, as a holding tank empties or a sink drains, air must enter the drainage system. Since RV fixtures as well as holding tanks rely solely on gravity while emptying, having air enter the system as sinks and tanks are drained, results in a faster and more thorough process. There are two types of vents used in recreation vehicle waste systems: direct exterior vents and anti-siphon trap vent devices (ASTVDs).

    Direct Vents

    Direct vents connect the waste systems (either within the drain piping or directly from the holding tank) to the atmosphere outside. There is one other type of direct vent; a side-mounted vent. Side venting is only permissible in the liquid waste system, (typically from a single fixture), and only found on the smallest recreation vehicles. Clearly, the most common and the most effective waste system vent stacks, however, are those that protrude above the roof.

    Anti-Siphon Trap Vent Devices (ASTVD)

    Another type of vent is the anti-siphon trap vent device. These handy gadgets are used as a secondary vent to aid in draining sink fixtures. Also called “check vents,” ASTVDs allow air into the drainage system, but prohibit air from passing out of the system. ASTVDs are installed in the liquid drain piping system at or near a P-trap inside a cabinet. Look under the kitchen and lavatory sink area and you should find them. They are mounted at least 6-inches above the P-trap’s horizontal arm. ASTVDs do not allow odors to escape into the living portion of the RV because of an integral atmospheric pressure-controlled, rubberized, one-way valve. In other words, air in, but not out.

    In addition to ASTVDs, there must still be at least one vent protruding through the roof to allow sewer gases out of that holding tank; ASTVDs are not primary vents. The better-designed waste systems will have ASTVDs installed at every P-trap as well as a direct vent running from each holding tank up and through the roof.

    Direct Vent Maintenance

    I’d wager not many active RVers have ever given serious thought to actually performing any maintenance on the waste system vents. But here’s something to investigate if you’ve never done so before. Sometimes coach manufacturers cut a very large hole in the ceiling and roof for vertical vent pipes to pass through; it obviously makes the installation a little easier and a lot faster. Oftentimes this gap is not sealed properly all the way around the outside perimeter of the pipe.

    If the area around the pipe is not sealed properly and is routed through an oversized hole, it’s likely the tank odors will pass up the vent, collide with the underside of the common sewer cap and be forced back down, around the side of the vent pipe and into the ceiling area where it eventually migrates to the living area. It would behoove the serious coach owner to remove the top cap of each sewer vent on the roof and ensure the space around the perimeter of the vent pipe is sealed tight.

    Better yet, consider the addition of a new roof vent cap. This newer type of replacement vent actually creates a negative pressure inside each holding tank and literally sucks the gases and odors out of the holding tank. Easily installed by any RV handyperson, you might not need holding tank additives ever again! Remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!